Any idea what are some good speakers and what are the sizes to just swap out with the 4 door/rear seat speakers in the regular stereo setup in a 98 Camaro SS Convertible? Also any problem just swapping out the deck for an aftermarket one as well?

Probably later on will be adding an 8" sub in the trunk corner and an amp....but not right away. Would this be as painless and straighforward a process as it sounds in my head?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Adam

 

crutchfield.com
i personally really like alpine speakers. some coaxils would be a good thing to swap in without a sub.

 

Instead of coaxials....I would definitely go with components up front if you do not wish to have a sub -- but only if you plan on an aftermarket HU at least to power them. Cheaper coaxials for the rear would be fine.

HU replacement is 100% straight forward. Speaker replacement can is straight forward then as well obviously, if you want to run them off of the new HU...... do you have the Monsoon system or just the base system?

 

I would skip the components unless you put an amp on them. Comps are not very efficient and the crossovers in the comps eat power. Coax speakers would be a better choice if you just want to run them from the deck. Some brads to look into would be Alpine, Kicker, Infinity, Memphis, Diamond Audio.

 

The difference in power requirements is very minimal minimal. For example, both the Alpine and Kenwood coax speakers are rated 2-50 watts while the equivalent components are rated 8-50 or 8-65 watts. The head unit alone can produce the 8 watts so the amp wouldn't have any problem with that. The Infinity components only need 2 watts with a 92dB efficiency.

 

First off put the top down and measure depth for rear speakers its very minimal. That said just replacing the speakers on a monsoon system is a fiascio to say the least I would do it with a headunit swap and run new wiring. If you dont plan on amping your speakers I have to disagree with fred and say get coaxials. Check out infinity reference or polk db. Even better go to circuit city or bestbuy and just listen to some speakers obviuoslly in car it will sound different but this will give you an idea. IMO alpines sound way to muddy but tahts my opinion.

In my experience regardless of what the rms rating on components is they will not get as loud as a coaxial will on deck power alone, so this is why i recommend coaxials if you dont plan on amping them

 

I would probably have to agree with that. I didn't really mean it would be "louder" I guess, it would just be easier first of all (and sound better if done right) with the separate lines already in front but I forgot he was getting a new HU as well so he could easily just run new wires. PentaVolvo is 100% correct that they (coax speakers) will generally sound louder. Some reasons I guess could be in the way they are installed (it's usually easier to put the tweeters up somewhere when ideally you would want the tweeters and the midrange components in the same location) and above all that the sensitivity rating of coax speakers is usually better. 92-95 dB can be found easily for around $100 or less for coax speakers while there are less options with components, and most mainstream brands people purchase have sensitivity ratings 90 dB or less... I listed Infinity because they actually have decent ratings (92 dB, lower turn on RMS), but a lot of people also don't like their brighter sound.

Anyways - sensitivity plays a more important role than RMS in a lot of scenarios IMO, since a 3 dB difference in sensitivity results in doubling or halving in volume produced. So if comparing coaxials with a 92 dB sensitivity rating to a set of components that has a sensitivity of say 88 dB -- thats a difference of 4 dB -- and the coaxials would sound MORE than TWICE as loud given the same power (assuming 1W/1M).

 

coax would be louder. Comps could be installed to sound better because of tweeter placement. But my point is everytime I have heard/installed comps of any brand off just radio power they sound great but volume sucks and sometimes they drop into distortion quickly or pop or cause strange output issues with the radio when you try to drive them hard. However this is only true with units that have the larger more complex crossovers. Units such as Infinity Kappa, Planet Audio Vortex, and Soundstream Tarantula for example that use simple crossovers don't seem to have these problems.

 

Not sure how you can say that without taking everything else into account.

Either way....my point was that I was unsure if he was swapping out HUs at the same time....with the factory setup it is much easier to power a set of components off of factory wiring than it is a coaxial setup....unless he wants to cut apart his new coaxials.

 

Thanks for the input guys, to clear things up:

-I have the base 4 speaker stereo/tape deck/12 disc changer(broken)
-I intend to replace the 4 speakers and head unit
-the reason is because at least one speaker is blown
-what I'm looking for isn't a louder system, volume isn't a problem....but if there is a way with better speakers/head unit to get better bass and a fuller sound (seems to have too much high end to it)...I reckon this will be hard to solve without a sub, but anything better would be nice

-at some point in the future I will probably get a sub/amp and tie it together....but I'm not a huge audio guy, right now the lack of cd/mp3 player and blown speaker system just sucks!

Thanks
-Adam

 

Does anyone know what size speakers you can actually fit?

 

6.5"S (6.5" or 6.75" speakers)
Depth in sails: 3.25" at most ideally without a spacer -- largest a spacer can be is .5"

 

Sounds like your best bet would be 6.5 coaxials all the way around. Also pick up some sound deadening to deaden at the very minimal the area right behind the speaker for improved midbass