I am planning to get rid of the factory door and sail panel speakers,so I can get a little better sound. I am planning on using Infiniti 62.7i for the doors and ED 7kv.2 D4 for the sail panels.This seems to be the current favorite setup going around. The system is stock except for the Eclipse HU and that may be replaced with an indash dvd player in the future. Amp and sub box are planned down the road. How much of a sound improvment can I expect from changing out those speakers? Anybody see any problems? Thanks

 

do you plan on running a 4 channel amp to them, becaues you really need to

 

you will notice a BIG difference w/ those speakers! Infinity are great sound quality pieces. You'll see what I mean. Once you run an amp to them... THEN the night and day difference comes into play!...

I wanted to run all infinity w/ kicker amps, but I got impatient and went w/ Memphis components. -Their high end stuff... I wish I had the Infinitys to adjust tweeter db levels... Still good speakers, tho.

Bottom line... You'll LOVE it!

 

The amp is what I need to look into next. I have read a few posts about not running them with and amp,just off the hu and they were still a big improvement,until an amp was founf.Since I would need an amp to run the doors and sail panels,then I figure that i would go ahead and get an amp that could handle that and run the sub too.Any recommendations? Thanks

 

you'll definitely want to amp both of them as mentioned...

just in case you weren't sure (and aren't amping right away), remember the stock door speakers are separate components (4 wires per side) -- you will only use the two wires that were used to power the woofer.........that IS a full signal being sent there - you'll just not be getting all the power you possibly could, though those Infinity speakers are of 2 ohm impedance and a lot more efficient - so they will almost undoubtedly sound louder than stock still.

 

Use separate amps for the sub and the components. I've seen a couple amps fail when you use one for all. -Too much stress. Using an amp for the speakers takes strain off the crossovers. Using a signal separator/processor before the amp takes strain off the amps, which further increases efficiency. -But is not allways needed. When setting up a processor/amp for the component speakers, make not of the low frequency response of the speaker (ex: 80hz-20khz), and adjust the crossover on the amp accordingly. Go SLIGHTLY above the lowest HZ rating of the speaker, w/ the adjustment.

Look at the RMS rating of the speakers. The Infinity can handle about 50-75 watts RMS, IIRC. You can get a good 50x4 amp for the components, no problem. I'd look into the Memphis Reference 50x4 amp. VERY nice amp! ..

I just installed on on my buddy's car and I do say, I LIKE it! Just, please, stay in the RMS wattage of the speakers and you will be golden!..

 

Go all out and go ahead and deadline all the speaker holes,run you a 00gauge power to the back with a 2nd battery of the same cranking amp,StreetWires makes a very nice selection of distribution blocks(get one), Run a 4 channel amp of the recomended power of the speakers,and by runnin the second battery you have all the power you will need to run you sub amp(s) and get really good sound quality out of the deal.
Good speakers(components,subs,coaxels)+Great Amps+Lots of power=Great sound

Oh yeah ^^^^^^what he said as well. tuning is very important

 

no offense but there is no way a system of this size needs 00gauge power cable or a second battery its just overkill about 100x

 

The point of that is that im tryin to save him a little money buy puttin les strain on his alternator.......I am a firm believer that if you run more than 1 amp or a big enough amp that you run eather a cap or a second battery.....I prefer a 2nd battery. Just speakin from past and recent systems i have built... plus a second battery is much cheaper than a cap.

 

on a system of that size the strain is minimal, i had a huge system in my 94 camaro and it took me 3 yrs to kill the alternator which was origional. By huge i mean over 1000wrms just in the substage

 

lol haha listen to this guy talking about adding a extra battery crazy dude. what you should do instead of doing that is go to a store that sells 4 gage wire. get couple feets of it. disconnect the battery un screw the wires leading from the alternator to the battery cut all the battery cables buy a nice battery terminal put all the wires in that terminal and connect to the battery again. upgrading the alternator wire will improve your system by a lot less resistance= more power no cap or extra battery needed

 

You will blow your ears in F-Body before hitting a limit of 4 gauge wire With speakers/amps you always get what you paid for. For amps, don't get anything made in China, Korea, etc. I am not a fan of Infinity speakers, as their midbass response is pretty poor, but that's my personal opinion. I also would get a full-range coaxials in sails and 10" stealth driver side sub. Good luck!

 

Not just your opinion, but that of many. They tend to be very bright and it is recommended one listen to them before purchasing (I don't have experience with them).

 

Thanks for the replies. Think I'll go listen to some 6.5 this weekend before getting the infinity. Does everybody agree on the 7kv.2 D4 for the sail panels? I assume since I'm getting an amp to run these speakers,that ohms doesn't matter? And bayer,I completely forgot about MA.Do they have any subs that would replace the sail panels and speakers for the doors?Thanks

 

I would still vote for the D4 models since running at 2 ohms is just more common...unless you use an amp stable at 1 ohm.. Plus, you still have the option of getting optimal factory performance at least for whatever reason...
Either way - I guess select you amp first, and then decide the VC impedance combo that works best.