I got elemental designs edead'2. If you don't know its suppoed to work like dynamate does to remove/reduce rattles from the bass the sub makes.

Im not done installing this stuff on my camaro but im just not sure if this stuff is really going to remove the rattles.

Who has installed sound deading and had great success and what did you cover with this material and which companys sound deading did you use?

 

EDIT:Removed my response. Thought you were trying to stop the rattles from the dash that every fbod has, not the ones related to a sub.

 

check out Second Skin.

i'd like to do it to my durango but i just don't have the money to do it now. Second Skin is good **** and way cheaper than Dynamat.

my truck didn't rattle until i got the 12" in there. now it's pretty bad. that and the exhaust has made all sorts of new rattles happen. it sucks.

 

I have a single 10" pushed by around 400 watts, and Infinity speakers in the doors pushed by about 100 watts.

Before the eDead install, music could be heard easily from outside the car, and it sounded bad. Not rattley, but unclean. The rear hatch and spoiler area had a bad rattle.

It sounded fine inside.

After I installed the eDead I bought (v1SE), there is NO distortion coming from the door area (probably because less sound is making it through the door), and the hatch no longer rattles. Still nice and loud inside, and sounds good outside the car with the windows down. With the windows up in the dead of the night, I don't think you could hear the stereo at high volumes 20 feet away.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it all over again. I loved the results I got with 27 feet of v1SE. I did both outside and lower door skins, a 1 foot square at the front speaker hole, all four sides of the trunk "hole", and the entire upper hatch.

Strangely, due to doing the hatch "hole" area, my Magnaflow now seems way too quiet.

 

I had B-QUiet Xtreme on my grand am 5-6 years ago and it definitly reduced the trunk vibrations/noises.

 

i need to dynamat a lot of things. my honda used to be pretty damn solid, until i got my system. now when i turn it like 1/2 of the way up my trunk rattles and flexes pretty badly, some brackets or something under the rear bumper rattles, doors rattle a bit, hood rattles a bit, front bumper rattles a tiny bit, some other crap on the chassis rattles a bit....it's so ghetto

 

well, the interior was sprayed with 12 cans of 3M ruberized undercoating, and all noise making rattles were fixed with foam weatherstripping. The doors are the only thing that got Dynamat, and even that is now getting sprayed this winter with 3M.

IMO the spray-on sound deadening is a much better solution than the stick-on. The entire purpose of sound deadening is to add mass to the panels such that it takes more energy to get them to vibrate. With dynamat, adhesion is not gaurenteed to the metal (I Have proof of this from when I removed the dynamat that was installed in my car; probably about a 50-60% adhesion percentage). With the Spray-on types the adhesion is 100%.

Personally dynamat or similar is good for some projects; but personally, I'll stick with the Spray-on/Foam combo.

Oh, and I've got a 2kWrms stereo in my car with 2 Kicker S12L7's; there were ZERO rattles nor was the music that loud until you opened a window/door.

 

did you have any problems with your car smelling like asphalt after spraying the 3m undercoating? i was going to do this, but then i thought that the smell from it would linger forever.

 

Im done with the hatch area and I still got little rattle from the trunk, but when I turn on the car and turn up the volume I can't hear the rattles. Its very little, compared to how it used to rattle before.

One thing I noticed is the bass sounds much cleaner inside and I don't have to turn up the volume at higher speeds to compisate for the wind noise.

I also found the gas lines on the driver underside were causing some horrable rattles that I thought were from the trunk, but it was the underside gas lines on the driver side, so I put some rubber peice of sheet and this solved the rattle.

One thing I noticed too, it seems like I can't hear the bass from the outside as loud as it was before the edead2 material. But I'am happy with the result. Now Im going to do my front doors cause now I know they can be improved.

 

Are you talking about the hole on the inside of the hatch, on the driver side?
I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up and im a little worried if anything bad could happen?

 

no smell whatso ever, the dynamat actually smells worse than the spray-on.

 

I was (poorly) referring to the trunk "well". If you stand at the back bumper, and lift your hatch, the deep well area that's about a foot deep and 18 by 30 or some odd inches.

I don't know what you mean by "I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up". Are you talking about the air vent? I'd leave it there. Helps get you hatch closed, among other things.

 

I've got some Dynamatt in my car that was leftovers from other's installs but I'm not entirely sold on the stuff. Not for it's claimed benefits but the performance of the adhesive. I've added on to systems for friends that had their installs done by a "Professional" before and in almost every case the Dynamatt had started to peal off of the panels it was applied to. Since it was supposed to have been installed by a "Pro" I can only assume that they cleaned all the surfaces properly before applying it. I haven't had a chance to see how mine is doing though.

 

This is exactly what I experienced first hand on my install which I did per Dynamat instructions. I had issues all over the place with adhesion; thus the reason I spent about 3 days scraping all the old stuff before masking and spraying on the 3M. The difference was well noticeable after the change, even with increased subwoofer power, there was still less ambient noise.

 

Cleaning the surfaces isn't the only step to installing dampening mat.
One should also use a heat source (heat gun preferably or hair dryer at the least) and some sort means of pressure. The rollers they sell work well, but so does anything else that allows you to put good force onto the matting while it is still warm.

I just mention this to point out if the installer *only* cleaned the mating surface, then there is no wonder it peeled. Like a lot of things in life; you've got to read and follow the product instructions to get the best results.

Not a dig on you personally, just trying to point out that someone doing a half-way job should expect half-way results.