Seeking help...
Hey guys,
I have a 97 Z28 and I need to upgrade my system. I figured since I spend a whole lotta time in my car, I'll try to enjoy it. So, basically I would like inputs on a head unit/ components/ subs amps, etc. I have no idea what the heck I"m talking about so, the more you guys expound, the more it'll help me. Thanks in advance for your help. BTW, Seasons' Greetings...
I have a 97 Z28 and I need to upgrade my system. I figured since I spend a whole lotta time in my car, I'll try to enjoy it. So, basically I would like inputs on a head unit/ components/ subs amps, etc. I have no idea what the heck I"m talking about so, the more you guys expound, the more it'll help me. Thanks in advance for your help. BTW, Seasons' Greetings...
Hey, check out this site for subwoofers
http://www.kicker.com
These are very high quality subs and amps, I don't think they sell them there but you can buy them in stores for a decent price.
Also, check out an Eclipse head unit. I know they have had some problems with durability in the past but I personally know that they have fixed many of those problems. I have one and it has the best sound quality I have ever heard and I haven't had any problems with it.
http://www.kicker.com
These are very high quality subs and amps, I don't think they sell them there but you can buy them in stores for a decent price.
Also, check out an Eclipse head unit. I know they have had some problems with durability in the past but I personally know that they have fixed many of those problems. I have one and it has the best sound quality I have ever heard and I haven't had any problems with it.
Thanks for the reply... Can you guys recommend me a setup for hopefully under 2500? Is that feasible? I forgot to mention I prefer overall sound clarity rather than the look-at-my-bleeding-eardrums sound quality. Thanks fellas
Originally posted by Robbie_97z28
Can you guys recommend me a setup for hopefully under 2500? Is that feasible? I forgot to mention I prefer overall sound clarity rather than the look-at-my-bleeding-eardrums sound quality. Thanks fellas
Can you guys recommend me a setup for hopefully under 2500? Is that feasible? I forgot to mention I prefer overall sound clarity rather than the look-at-my-bleeding-eardrums sound quality. Thanks fellas
Head Unit: I recommed the Alpine 7892 (or a better Alpine, if you can afford it) the key is the Bass Engine Plus feature. That means it has 4-channel time correction.... and a whole lot of other goodies. You know how the drivers side speaker is closer to you then the passenger side speaker? Well, this feature will allow you to delay the sound coming out of the drivers side speaker so the passenger side can meet at your ears at the exact same time. Basically, allows you to adjust the sweet spot in your car. A VERY nice feature indeed. This feature is normally found only in higher-end head units. Plus, Alpine is known for realiability. All for roughly $240. I challenge anyone to find a better CD player for the money.
Speakers: I recommend components up front. A component set comes with 2 woofers (not subwoofers
) two tweeters and two crossovers. Don't skimp on these. These can make or break your system. I recommend either the Focal K2's ($310) or Adire Audio Kodas (about $330 I think). That should build you a solid front stage. As far a speakers next to the rear seats..... a lot of people prefer to have no speakers there at all !! I personally like to have them though. I recommend you try without them, if you don't like it, put a pair of mid range/mid bass speakers there. Not co-axil or tri-axils. The tweeter on them WILL destroy your sound stage. The higher the frequency, the more directional the sound is. The idea is to create the music up front and compliment it with speakers in the rear. If you can pinpoint the music from the rear, then it's too loud. Try the Adire Audio Koda midbass. Same as in the component set, but just the woofer part. (about $150/pair) If you have speakers in the rear hatch area... take them out. Don't put anything there. Same reason as above.Subs: This is where it gets hard. There are a ton of good brands out there for all different price ranges. Do you have t-tops? Do you want to keep the storage area for them? How much bass are you actually looking for? Are you willing to use your WHOLE hatch area for a sub box? Or would you rather have a little storage area? Either build your own box out of 3/4" Medium Density Fiberboard or check out www.subthump.com Maybe try both passenger and driver side stealth boxes. Put 2 10"s in there and you will still have your WHOLE hatch area to store you gear! He might make them in 12" sizes too. Can't remember. I recommend spending anywhere from $150 for one decent 10" $400 for two decent 12"s. Give me an idea on what you want and I will make my recomendations.
Amps: Depends on what you decide for subs. Cheap and decent quality amps now are the JBL BP1200.1 and BP 600.1, Cadence A7HC and the Revolution D1500.1. And get a 4-channel amp for your components and rear speakers. Or 2-channel if you decide not to have rear speakers. Sub amp= anywhere from $180 for 600W to $400 for 1500W. Component amp= roughly $300
Cd player: $240
Components: $320
Rear speakers: $150--- if you even decide to have them.
Sub: $300--- roughly, depends on what you want
2 amps: $600--- roughlt, depends on what you want
Wiring: $200
Total $1810---- very rough estimate.
Tell me more, and I will help more!
For a limit with $2,500, you will be getting some great audio equipment.
Amps: Of course with me, ya know it's gonna be the Xplod. Every single one of my installs with a Xplod amp has never failed me. They unload power like it's nothing and do it without getting very hot. You also can't go wrong with MTX amps either.
Subs: Like said before is a very hard decision, unless you can take them home and try them out in your car! Right now I'm running 2 12" MTX T6000 series and I am very satisfied with them. I've blown them 2-3 times, but only to see what my amp could really do! IMO, Sony subs are crap beyond crap. They're down there with Jensen and that other Wal-Mart audio. You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
HUs: Right now I am running a JVC El Kameleon cd player and have had no problems with it what-so-ever. Also 2 of my buddies have the "El Kameleon's" and are also satisfied. They are very nice and have tons of features and aren't that bad of a price.
Enclosure's: My neighbor is using a ported box right now and it is very load and shakes your eyes out (of course he's runnging 1800w and 2 Flame Qs).
Both the boxes I've had in my Camaro are sealed. Which won't be as loud as the ported but will give you more of a vibration.
Amps: Of course with me, ya know it's gonna be the Xplod. Every single one of my installs with a Xplod amp has never failed me. They unload power like it's nothing and do it without getting very hot. You also can't go wrong with MTX amps either.
Subs: Like said before is a very hard decision, unless you can take them home and try them out in your car! Right now I'm running 2 12" MTX T6000 series and I am very satisfied with them. I've blown them 2-3 times, but only to see what my amp could really do! IMO, Sony subs are crap beyond crap. They're down there with Jensen and that other Wal-Mart audio. You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
HUs: Right now I am running a JVC El Kameleon cd player and have had no problems with it what-so-ever. Also 2 of my buddies have the "El Kameleon's" and are also satisfied. They are very nice and have tons of features and aren't that bad of a price.
Enclosure's: My neighbor is using a ported box right now and it is very load and shakes your eyes out (of course he's runnging 1800w and 2 Flame Qs).
Both the boxes I've had in my Camaro are sealed. Which won't be as loud as the ported but will give you more of a vibration.
Originally posted by ibanez6rg
You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
Originally posted by ibanez6rg
Both the boxes I've had in my Camaro are sealed. Which won't be as loud as the ported but will give you more of a vibration.
Both the boxes I've had in my Camaro are sealed. Which won't be as loud as the ported but will give you more of a vibration.
Thanks guys for reply.... I'm learning alot here... Head units..Are Pioneer or Kenwood head units any good? I'll take the advise on sep.comp. in the front, woofers in the bad seat and a sub. I'm just looking for something that'll enhance my music experience. Once in a while, I'd like to crank it and not blow a darn thing. Also, I'd love to retain my hatch storage area for the t-tops
Mahalo guys...
Mahalo guys...
Originally posted by ibanez6rg
[B]You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
[B]You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/tec...y/subMyths.cfm
And with my other "confussing" comment, it means, a ported box will be heard from farther away (louder). A sealed box, is a more in your face, rattle your brain out. Back massage in the seats. Of course a ported box will also be able to do this, but not as well.
Last edited by ibanez6rg; Dec 17, 2002 at 10:51 AM.
G&S is made by the same company that makes Autotek. Autotek is used pretty regularly in competition level systems.
I chose the G&S for the looks, I admit it. But I am VERY happy with overall sound quality as well as performance.
I have already won two trophies with that system.
I got all the equipment, including all the wiring, minus the head unit for like $1400 or $1500 give or take a few bucks.
I chose the G&S for the looks, I admit it. But I am VERY happy with overall sound quality as well as performance.
I have already won two trophies with that system.
I got all the equipment, including all the wiring, minus the head unit for like $1400 or $1500 give or take a few bucks.
Originally posted by Robbie_97z28
Thanks guys for reply.... I'm learning alot here... Head units..Are Pioneer or Kenwood head units any good? I'll take the advise on sep.comp. in the front, woofers in the bad seat and a sub. I'm just looking for something that'll enhance my music experience. Once in a while, I'd like to crank it and not blow a darn thing. Also, I'd love to retain my hatch storage area for the t-tops Mahalo guys...
Thanks guys for reply.... I'm learning alot here... Head units..Are Pioneer or Kenwood head units any good? I'll take the advise on sep.comp. in the front, woofers in the bad seat and a sub. I'm just looking for something that'll enhance my music experience. Once in a while, I'd like to crank it and not blow a darn thing. Also, I'd love to retain my hatch storage area for the t-tops Mahalo guys...

Originally posted by ibanez6rg
Well if your confused, I guess you don't know much.
Well if your confused, I guess you don't know much.
Originally posted by ibanez6rg
You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
You want to get some that can handle the power that you'll be pushing and ones that are vented (to bring in cool air and push out heat).
Don't get on the defensive bro. You just said some statements that were worded a little funny. No reason to be a smarta$$. It's all good.
Last edited by firebirdude; Dec 17, 2002 at 01:56 PM.
I think that MTX is stretching the importance of vents over vented pole pieces too much, but whatever they can have their marketing hype.
To answer some of the questions asked.....
Yes Kenwood and Pioneer make good decks. I prefer Kenwood over Pioneer, sony, eclipse and even with Alpine and Clarion....
I always recommend a single 12 over a pair of tens. Easier to mount, not much difference in SPL, cheaper and usually better low end.
$2500 can get some very high end equipment as long as you don't pay the 50% that a shop will charge for a custom box, and installation. If you told a shop you had $2500 to spend you would likely pay $1000 of that in "labor". Install it yourself if you are not all thumbs... it will save you a bundle.
For $2500 i would do this....
Kenwood 859... $450 (local so you get warranty)
220 A Alternator from Mr Alternator.com $350
1/0 power wire and blocks, speaker wire, install accessories... etc from knukonceptz.com $200
Adire Brahma 15 ($420 authorized shipped to your door)
run off a Cadence A7HC ($420 from TMS-Electronics.com)
Front components of your choice $300
run off a Cadence A1 (100x2) $220 from TMS-electronics.com
That leaves you with about $140 to build a box for your sub.
Notice that i did not recommend a component set, this is the most personal part of your system and it is important to find something that suits YOU... don't buy without listening to them... for instance i LOVE my A/D/S speakers but a lot of people like a more aggressive tweeter like Boston Pro's and Infinity Perfects have, but i could never see myself switching them out till they blow.
The Brand of amp and head unit have very little to do with the sound quality that you get out of your system, concentrate more on the speakers and install, you know things that actually influence the sound quality.
To answer some of the questions asked.....
Yes Kenwood and Pioneer make good decks. I prefer Kenwood over Pioneer, sony, eclipse and even with Alpine and Clarion....
I always recommend a single 12 over a pair of tens. Easier to mount, not much difference in SPL, cheaper and usually better low end.
$2500 can get some very high end equipment as long as you don't pay the 50% that a shop will charge for a custom box, and installation. If you told a shop you had $2500 to spend you would likely pay $1000 of that in "labor". Install it yourself if you are not all thumbs... it will save you a bundle.
For $2500 i would do this....
Kenwood 859... $450 (local so you get warranty)
220 A Alternator from Mr Alternator.com $350
1/0 power wire and blocks, speaker wire, install accessories... etc from knukonceptz.com $200
Adire Brahma 15 ($420 authorized shipped to your door)
run off a Cadence A7HC ($420 from TMS-Electronics.com)
Front components of your choice $300
run off a Cadence A1 (100x2) $220 from TMS-electronics.com
That leaves you with about $140 to build a box for your sub.
Notice that i did not recommend a component set, this is the most personal part of your system and it is important to find something that suits YOU... don't buy without listening to them... for instance i LOVE my A/D/S speakers but a lot of people like a more aggressive tweeter like Boston Pro's and Infinity Perfects have, but i could never see myself switching them out till they blow.
The Brand of amp and head unit have very little to do with the sound quality that you get out of your system, concentrate more on the speakers and install, you know things that actually influence the sound quality.


