Rear Hatch Speaker Box
Rear Hatch Speaker Box
Is it a good idea to make a box to put speakers in? Would you make a complete box or just cap it off? What would be the best thing to make it out of? Whats the sound like if it was in a box?
Re: Rear Hatch Speaker Box
For what type of speakers, subwoofers? 6x9s? 6.5"?
Most common speakers don't necessiarly need a box, most will work fine without.
Subwoofers on the other hand almost entire require an enclosure to work and perform well. Most are made from MDF (medium density fiberboard) available from any home-improvement center. For most installs the subwoofers enclosure is air-tight; some enclosures have a tuned "port" or hole in the enclosure, but those need to be built specifically for the subwoofer that's being installed in it.
Most common speakers don't necessiarly need a box, most will work fine without.
Subwoofers on the other hand almost entire require an enclosure to work and perform well. Most are made from MDF (medium density fiberboard) available from any home-improvement center. For most installs the subwoofers enclosure is air-tight; some enclosures have a tuned "port" or hole in the enclosure, but those need to be built specifically for the subwoofer that's being installed in it.
Re: Rear Hatch Speaker Box
Qlogic makes a 12'' subwoodfer encloser that works very well with Kicker Comp or Solobarics, with Rockford Fosgate Punch or with JL audio subs. You can find this encloser doing a search for Qlogic subwoofer enclosures. It should cost you around $230 or so for the box (give or take, its been a while since I've been into the car audio circle). The subwoofer box top forms 99% perfectly to the outline of your car. FREE-AIR subs, as they are called, which do not need a sub enclosure will also work, but not even close to as well. The rear glass will increase the db's by 3 which is actually like doubling the power of a system. So be sure to have enough power going to your mids and tweeters or the subs will easily over-ride your system. I would suggest going with 2- 12'' subs in your back, throw 2- 6.5'' midbass in your rear seat openings and then 6.5'' seperates in your front. Use a seperate amp for your subs, and 1- 4channel for the rest of your system will be fine. I have personally installed many systems in Z28's and T/A's in the past and KICKER speakers rock this car. Alpine headunits and amps work very well together. Try to get an optima battery (yellow top) and your system will eb on its way. Feel free to ask anymore questions. I dont know everything, but I know some things. Also, flush mount your headunit, dont use the regular cheesy instal kits, and your system will look top notch from the start. PEACE! K.I.R (Keepinitreal)
Re: Rear Hatch Speaker Box
I just read the top post above my first one more and would like to add this one thing. In most Z28's and T/A's a port hole is not needed unless you drive with the t-tops off 90% of the time. If you do most of your driving with the t-tops on then stick with a sealed enclosure. Dont forget that the bass bouncing off the hatch window will increase the bass tremendously. You will be amazed at the bass if you seal the box with glue and silicone, and then use acoustical spray or mat inside the enclosure.
I also forgot to mention, Q-logic also makes a 10'' single sub enclosure that fits inside the small area on the left side of your hatch opposite the spare tire side. Throw a kicker solobaric or JL audio in there and you can thump that car with just one sub. Peace! K.I.R
I also forgot to mention, Q-logic also makes a 10'' single sub enclosure that fits inside the small area on the left side of your hatch opposite the spare tire side. Throw a kicker solobaric or JL audio in there and you can thump that car with just one sub. Peace! K.I.R
Re: Rear Hatch Speaker Box
Dont be scared by the ruffness, I started working today on it but there not going to be a back seat so tell me how you would set it up. I am also going to need to mount a nitrous bottle, probably 10 lb in the future. http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=756169
Re: Rear Hatch Speaker Box
R/T sound makes an ok fitting box for a third gen as well...but if i were you, i'd just go to your local audio shop and ask them for an enclosure for your f-body. Most stereo shops have a guy and all he does is come in, make a box to your specs if their not crazy and do a basic black cloth upholstery job and will make everything flush and its genereally not alot more expensive than a prefabbed pos box.
I've got an R/T box and the fitment could be better (im saving for the box below) but it gives me the airspace i need for each sub and thats all that im lookin for...and its pretty damn loud, i'll have my deck volume at 8 with a +3 volume adjustment, and a 7 on the mid bass on my JVC deck and my friends can usually here me a good 5-6blocks while if im cruising at 80 with the volume at 15 my parents said they could here the bass around a mile before i pulled in the lane.
if your a 4th gen guy, IMO, the omly way to go is with a www.subthump.com box, their flush, their awesome, and their not crazy bad on the wallet.
Dave
I've got an R/T box and the fitment could be better (im saving for the box below) but it gives me the airspace i need for each sub and thats all that im lookin for...and its pretty damn loud, i'll have my deck volume at 8 with a +3 volume adjustment, and a 7 on the mid bass on my JVC deck and my friends can usually here me a good 5-6blocks while if im cruising at 80 with the volume at 15 my parents said they could here the bass around a mile before i pulled in the lane.
if your a 4th gen guy, IMO, the omly way to go is with a www.subthump.com box, their flush, their awesome, and their not crazy bad on the wallet.
Dave
Last edited by s3gulit; Dec 28, 2004 at 07:31 AM.
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