id take it back to the specialist then and get ur money back then buy something else.

 

If I bought it last week I would, but this was installed about 10 months ago.

Does anyone think it's the wiring, or is The Specialist just dumb as a box of hair, and didn't think before installing my amp in a spot that will cause it to overheat?

Should I install spacers? Or a fan?

 

well where is it mounted????

 

A quote from my first post.

 

what page theres no link

 

There is a button, that says "website", it is located between the buttons that say, "Prvt Msg" and "Find More". These three buttons are located at the bottom of my post...

 

Your amp should be fine where it's at. There is plenty of room around it for it to cool. What do they have the amp's gain set at? The 200W your amp delivers when bridged is on the weak side. They may have set the gain extra high to try and compensate for this. If thats the case then I'm guessing that the amp is clipping very hard and causing it to overheat.

 

duh lol.....anyhow....nice ride!! what did u do to get the interior pieces so shiny ive been thinking about doing this myself but i was afraid it was gonna look like crap so i never did it....and the amp where it is should be fine plenty of air....I bought one of those amps (well same line) and i never liked it I always had problems with it....it may be time for a new amp.......

 

Thanks, I don't want to get off topic, but I will .

If you do a search on painting the interior you'll find a pantload of what to do, what not to do, right way, wrong way, etc.

Here's my method.

1. Get all the pieces you are going to paint SUPER clean. Odds are good you Armor All. Dirt just loves to stick to it. I cleaned with rubbing alcohol and rags.

2. Mask off whatever you don't want paint on.

3. Give it a good 5 or 6 coats of Krylon plastic paint, I forget the actual name. Checker, Autozone, etc. carries it.

4. Give it a good 5 or 6 coats of clear coat, again krylon.

As far as cleaning goes, I Armor All as usual.


Anyway,

The gain for the sub is a dial that goes from, "min" to "nom" to "0.5v" to "max". It is set just above 0.5v.

Check my webpage on page six for a picture.

 

Try backing the gain off to the NOM position once and see what happens.

When you can afford it I would upgrade the amp to a class D subwoofer amp that can do at least 300W. More if you can afford it. The 10W3 in my experience needs to be in a bigger box. I had one in my Vantage Stealthbox with 600W and I wasn't all that happy with it. I switched to the Alpine Type-S and am much happier now. It seems to be a much better match for the .6 cubic feet of volume than the JL sub.

 

Alright, thanks, I'll give it a try. It won't bump quite as hard once I do this, right?

 

Correct. But 200W isn't nearly enough for the sub you have anyway.

 

So in other words, the gain is cranked. I can't remember if you are using an aftermarket head unit or not (post is too long) but if you are, chances are the RCA preouts are ATLEAST 2V. 4V is more common. You are suppose to match the setting on the gain **** with the voltage on the RCAs. With the "sensitivity ****" set to .5V you are amplifying the signal more then it need be. When this happens, you get a clipped output signal. Clipping isin't bad in small amounts, but it makes your amp work harder then it has to. I can almost bet you $100 when you back off the gain ****, you will have less and less problems with overheating.

 

I am using an aftermarket head.

I wish I $ to get a... well, new everyting. I wish The Specialist hadn't screwed me over. But, I'm glad I got this resolved. Thanks to all that helped. Much appreciated