heh LS1 knows everything....when he says something I take it as fact...lol....anyway yeah if the amp is overheating and its only 1 sub and some speakers id definately take it back to the specialist......also on another note hey LS1 are you still selling those door speaker baffles?? I just fixed a shop screw up and well I had the panel off I seen what u were saying about those speaker baffles being a tough squeeze....I was wondering what ur asking for em....ill prolly wait to purchase em til i get my new MB fronts.....

 

I just got back from The Specialist. *** holes- they wouldn't even look at it. The guy said that it is overheating because we're in Tuscon, and its in the trunk. He suggested two things that I could do.

1. Hook a fan up to it.
2. Put spacers on it so it's backside gets more air.

What really pisses me off though is when I got it installed they said that that is where they usually mount amps on Camaros. So that leads me to believe that many other people would have this problem. Is it too much to ask for them to have put the spacer and/or a fan on it when they installed it? Well, I think it's bull****. Guess where I'm not going to get my tint done at!


Now that that's off my chest - What should I do?



Do yourselves a favor, DO NOT GO TO THE SPECIALIST!

 

what amp is it? what sub is it? if you don't know the impedance of the sub take it out and look on the back and tell us the model #, that will tell us right away if it is an impedance problem.

 

Here is the link to the amplifier:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html

I'm not 100% positive, but I believe this is the link to the sub:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w3v2.html

The sub is attched to the box with a hex nut, I don't have the tools to remove it. It is a 10" JL Audio Sub. The paper I printed when I got it installed is for a 10" JL Audio Sub. It is "10 W3". But, I can't get this specific model's link. The sub on the invoice from The Specialist is a 260W sub. The above link is for a 300W sub. All of the 10" subs are not 260W. Perhaps it is obsolete?
The paper I printed says, "Available configurations: dual 2 ohm, dual 4 ohm, or dual 6 ohm."

Here is the link for the 6.5's:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html

They installed it so that 1 channel went to each of the 6.5s and the sub is supposed to be bridged.
What do you think?

 

I would say that the amp is overheating because its hot.


sorry I couldnt help myself.

 

Without knowing for certain which model sub you have theres no way of knowing if it is the cause of the problem or not. We need to know the impedance of the VC's and how they are connected.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but, what are VC's?

 

VC = voice coil

 

Alright, after I get off of work to day, I will get a tool to remove the sub from the box.

 

I hate The Specialist. 2 of the hex nuts are stripped! DAMN THEM! I will make another attempt today with needle nose vice grips.

 

Ended up drilling out the hex nuts, f'n Specialist. "4002/10W3v2-D2" (model number) no impediance listed. Judging by this site: http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf

My sub is hooked up in series with the amp so the impediance is 4 ohms... Now what?

 

The D2 in the model number means that it has dual 2ohm VC's. If the VC's are connected in series then you're running the sub at 4ohms. This shouldn't be a problem for your amp. If the VC's are wired in parallel, you are running at 1ohm. This would cause your amp to overheat in a hurry. What amp are you using? The link you provided doesn't show anything about an amp.

 

Sorry about that; it's an Alpine MRV-F340. It's listed in the link provided above.

 

yeah are u sure its wired in series and ant parallel?

 

I have some circuitry knowledge and I am 100% sure it's series, not parallel.