Ive got a stealthbox with a JL 10W3d2 powered by a rockford P2002 amp. Its wired at 4 ohms and getting exactly 257 watts continuous. Anyway, Im not impressed. Its sounds like I have a horid air-leak, even though I completely silicone-sealed the box. Im hoping this doesnt mean the sub I bought is blown. It sounds pretty good from in the car, but standing by it you hear nothing but the 'air-leak' and the car rattling I cant believe how little bass it takes to rattle the car, and I cant even locate the rattle. It seems to come from every direction

Murphy's Law #54236452745^989789067989: Installation of a system will never go flawlessly

I think im gonna pull the sub (and therefore have to completely re-seal the thing ) and see if a wires hitting or something, but I highly doubt it.

*sigh*:blah:

 

oh, I also pulled that stuffing out of the box... was that a bad idea?

 

Nevermind... Ive found the culprit... the sub is blown

 

If the sub is working how can it be blown?

The lack of bass output is exactly why I replaced my 10W3 with a 10" Alpine Type-S The JL is a great sub but it needs a bigger box than the .6 cubic foot Vantage box I use. I put the JL in a larger sealed enclosure that I built myself and use it in my home theatre setup. It makes my whole living room shake.

 

The sub functions, but bottoms out and rattles easily. I was told by a friend those are pretty much the exact symptoms of a blown sub.

 

Oh, OK. My deffinition of blown is that the voice coil has totally fried. It sounds like you have a voice coil that has partially or completely detached from the cone. You might try contacting JL to see if they will replace it. Sometimes when it's a flaw in the materials (the glue used to attach the VC to the cone in this case) they will replace it or even repair it at no cost. At least they "might". Doesn't hurt to ask. Polk Audio did it for me once even after the warranty had expired.

 

Well now, the sub just decided to start working properly





now I have to fix all these horrid rattles