I am going to change all the speakers and the head unit in the car. I have found a DIN and a half head unit...that crutchfirld seems to think doesn't fit. I imagine that if its a din and a half, then it should fit. Thats the first question.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...s&viewAll=True

The next series of questions are about speakers (yep, another one)

Sail Panel speakers
What is their function? Are they 6.5" subs, or are 2 or 3 way speakers?

Hatch Speakers
Stock size is 4x6 i believe, with a bit of cutting, is it possible to get a 6x8 or 5x7 in there?
Does anyone make a shallow 6x8 or 5x7, because depth will be a bit of an issue, i think.
Would it be best to run 3 ways or a 4 ways in the hatch (assuming that I install 6.5" subs in the sail panels)

Door Speakers
Again, 3 or 4 way.

Here is what I am planning on...
New head unit (hopefully, the one listed above) with internal High and Low pass filters.

Pulling mids and highs from the doors, Low, mids and highs from the hatch and lows from the sails, is that reasonable?

 

This is the component list that I am thinking about getting...

Head Unit (with a custom trim panel)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YEEQfVv...P47D&s=0&cc=01

Sail Panel Subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YEEQfVv...5VT4&s=0&cc=01

Hatch Speakers (cutting required)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YEEQfVv...5782&s=0&cc=01

Door Speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YEEQfVv...X662&s=0&cc=01

I know the brands are random, but I think that would sound pretty decent without having to run an amp.

 

I just checked on crutchfield they list available depth as 5.75" for a 97 , and for a 98 they list available depth as 5.75". Same , but for some reason they say that radio will fit in a 98? I would call them up and ask them why.

 

I actuall did, shortly after posting. Thanks for the effort, they said that there will be a small gap above and below the unit, when installed. Nothing a bit of fiberglass trim can't fix.

 

do you have bose or monsoon? if so, it won't be that simple.

You will need to run a small two channel amp to those midbass 6.5's or they will just sound like poo and blow due to being underpowered. I'd recommend a rockford fosgate p200.2 for those.

Honestly, you won't hear the 5x7's way back in the hatch so much. that could offer you a little more budget to work with in the long run. Also, that deck is WAY overpriced for what it offers. You could spend that on a regular din radio and use a dash kit with MUCH better results and allocate a little more budget toward properly powering those midbass drivers.

 

I would go with a single Din and Dash Kit (I have a single DIN w/kit in my car, no issues) If you have the Bose (or Monsoon??) as stated you'll need to drive the speakers with wiring other than the factory wiring, as there are hidden amps within the factory wiring. You can choose to run a separate amp, (I know I went that route), or you could just run new wiring from the back of the Deck itself, but it needs to be outside the factory wires to avoid the amps in the factory wiring.

As for speakers, some say only front doors are needed, I chose to do front doors and sail panels (but I also have everything powered by amps in the trunk, and have a 10" Subwoofer in a Stealth Box) and no need to replace the single 5x7 in the trunk, for basic install. Otherwise you'll need to go with a real Sub, and have that powered with an Amp. If you're going that far then I'd recommend powering the main speakers by external amp as well (Still need to re-wire from the amp(s))

Eric