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Help w/new system

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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:14 AM
  #1  
RedTtop6spd's Avatar
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From: Neptune Beach, FL
Help w/new system

I have a 99 SS that the previous owner clipped the speakers to their death. Only the passenger side front speaker is working and I can't stand it anymore. I had a nice simple system in my 85 camaro and haven't looked into car audio since I got it.

That said...I have a Pioneer HU and 2 12" subs and an amp to power them both. I also have 2 4 channel by 60W rms amps sitting in the garage. I'm looking to get a nice system, but I'm married so I'm still on a bit of a budget for the speakers. What recommendations do you guys have? What type of speakers should I put where, how should I wire them to the 2 multi channel amps? I haven't dealt with even thinking about audio since I put the subs in my 85 camaro and don't remember much of it. Any help would be appreciated. I miss good sound.
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #2  
skibbez93z's Avatar
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From: Newton Kansas
Alpine speakers are very good. that is what i had in my last car. just check into alpine stuff. but i would just go onto crutchfield.com and put your vehicle in there and they will tell you what fits where and what people think of it.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 05:31 AM
  #3  
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Since you have two 4ch amps (right?), you might as well use them. One for the subs, and the other for 4 speakers. Since you'll have the power for them, I would look into a decent set of components for the front, and just whatever 6.(5-75)" coaxials in for the rear seats....unless you really want the bass speakers there...
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 07:32 AM
  #4  
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Question

I actually have three amps, two 4ch, and one 2ch that I had bridged for the subs in my last car. Since I have the two 4ch amps, I was thinking about making the little vents on the pillars into spots for tweeters, putting components in the doors, and then 2-ways in the back seats and in the trunk spots. Something like the layout below.

t.......t
m......m

2w....2w

2w....2w
s.......s

t= tweeter
m= midrange component
2w= 2-way
s= sub

Since I have a mess of fiberglass cloth from an old project still around, I'm going to do my own custom sub enclosures on each side in the trunk and leave enough room for my t-tops still. I'm currently looking at Kenwood Excelons since everything I already have is Kenwood except for the HU. My budget got a little bit larger since I won't actually be able to install it for a few more months. (gotta love the tax return) The part numbers are KFC-X1700P for the front components, and then KFC-X1700 for the back seat and trunk locations.

If someone could check me on this, it could be helpful... Since both my 4ch amps have pre-amp inputs and outputs, I could run one set of RCA cables to the amps, then have a short set of RCA's going from the first amp to the second amp, then to the sub amp. Then have the remote wire from the HU actually connected to a relay and from the relay to each amp so that I don't overload that circuit in the HU. I'm going to run new wiring for all the speakers, and run the tweeters and door speakers off the first amp, the rear seat and trunk speakers off the second amp, and then the subs like I had them in my old car. Does everything sound right or am I missing something?

Last edited by RedTtop6spd; Jan 11, 2007 at 07:36 AM.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #5  
fredmr39's Avatar
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Originally Posted by RedTtop6spd
I actually have three amps, two 4ch, and one 2ch that I had bridged for the subs in my last car. Since I have the two 4ch amps, I was thinking about making the little vents on the pillars into spots for tweeters, putting components in the doors, and then 2-ways in the back seats and in the trunk spots. Something like the layout below.

t.......t
m......m

2w....2w

2w....2w
s.......s

t= tweeter
m= midrange component
2w= 2-way
s= sub
I haven't read the rest of your post yet -- but if you are going with components in front...be careful what you do in back. I would consider blocking some of the higher frequencies from the hatch out to avoid imaging problems...or even eliminate hatch speakers and block most high freqs in rear seat area..

You had the 2ch one bridged of the subs before? Is that the most powerful amp you have (bridging a 4ch one twice isn't better, is it?) -- otherwise wow you can do a lot...

Tweeters where you mentioned sounds like it would look cool, but if you are going for sound - you really want them as close to the midrange component as possible. So, consider that if you go ahead and still mount them there.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #6  
RedTtop6spd's Avatar
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
I haven't read the rest of your post yet -- but if you are going with components in front...be careful what you do in back. I would consider blocking some of the higher frequencies from the hatch out to avoid imaging problems...or even eliminate hatch speakers and block most high freqs in rear seat area..
How does putting 2 ways in the back seat and then midrange components in the hatch with crossovers to cut out the higher freqs sound?

You had the 2ch one bridged of the subs before? Is that the most powerful amp you have (bridging a 4ch one twice isn't better, is it?) -- otherwise wow you can do a lot...
Yes, the 2ch is definitely the best option for the subs.

Tweeters where you mentioned sounds like it would look cool, but if you are going for sound - you really want them as close to the midrange component as possible. So, consider that if you go ahead and still mount them there.
I'll have to think about that.

Thanks for the help. This is what I was really needing to know more than anything.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by RedTtop6spd
How does putting 2 ways in the back seat and then midrange components in the hatch with crossovers to cut out the higher freqs sound?
That sounds like a good idea if you are going to keep the hatch. I know the hatch area initially has full range...but personally I don't like it and have fades/zones/all the stuff adjusted. Some people DO like it with full range everywhere of course... all comes down to what you like/experimentation.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #8  
fredmr39's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RedTtop6spd
Since I have a mess of fiberglass cloth from an old project still around, I'm going to do my own custom sub enclosures on each side in the trunk and leave enough room for my t-tops still. I'm currently looking at Kenwood Excelons since everything I already have is Kenwood except for the HU. My budget got a little bit larger since I won't actually be able to install it for a few more months. (gotta love the tax return) The part numbers are KFC-X1700P for the front components, and then KFC-X1700 for the back seat and trunk locations.

If someone could check me on this, it could be helpful... Since both my 4ch amps have pre-amp inputs and outputs, I could run one set of RCA cables to the amps, then have a short set of RCA's going from the first amp to the second amp, then to the sub amp. Then have the remote wire from the HU actually connected to a relay and from the relay to each amp so that I don't overload that circuit in the HU. I'm going to run new wiring for all the speakers, and run the tweeters and door speakers off the first amp, the rear seat and trunk speakers off the second amp, and then the subs like I had them in my old car. Does everything sound right or am I missing something?
Kenwood Excelon KFC-X1700P look nice...I have never seen any complaints about the Excelon line. I have one of their HUs as well...no problems. Seems to have a lower RMS rating than most around that price, however is also among the most efficient at producing sound...so it balances. Kenwood Excelon KFC-X1700 seem nice as well...might as well compliment the Kenwood theme! However...what do your 4ch amps put out bridged? Make sure you get the most out of your front components especially.

What was you question exactly about wiring in a relay? With more than 2 amps, it's definitely recommended..I don't see any problems.

your amp method seems fine... run one large fused power wire from the battery, and a distribution block. Ground everything
at different locations...unless you can't, then use a distribution block. I know you know these things...just trying to think of what else could be useful...oh - you said the amps have preouts themselves? are they filtered? if they are filtered, make sure they work for whatever you plan on sending signals to.. (or adjust the filters if possible) -- DEFINITELY use those to keep the voltage levels up (as opposed to splicing/Y connecting/etc...for 2 amps the change in V levels is NOT a problem at all though generally) ......and of course get your relay in there before the amps to turn them on...
---
sorry I know that wasn't of much help, but I wasn't sure what you were asking since you seem to know exactly what you're talking about

Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 11, 2007 at 11:16 AM.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:40 AM
  #9  
PentaVolvo's Avatar
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From: NW Suburbs of Chicago
i think knowing what model amps you have might help out
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:53 AM
  #10  
RedTtop6spd's Avatar
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Actually, you've been quite a bit of a help. I don't mind hearing any of it again. It's been a long time since I did anything with audio. I'm just trying to make sure I have all of my ducks in a row so that's why I went through most everything.

The amp pre-outs are unfiltered. I don't recall what the bridged power is, I'll have to check. They're KAC-8402 amps.

I can't wait to go back to some good quality sound. The passenger side speaker cut in and out yesterday briefly so I just shut the radio off. The guy really botched the sound system when he changed out the HU and the original speakers. The best speaker that's in the car right now is a $20 pair of 4" coaxials.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:17 PM
  #11  
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From: NW Suburbs of Chicago
ok 60wattsrms X4not bad should get the car sounding pretty good. Honestly unless you are goin with crazy highend speakers running just one of those 4 channels should be plenty.

I wouldnt put any speakers in the hatch at all its basically worthless. Just do some nice coaxials in the frt doors and sail panels or a component up front and coaxials in the sail panels
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