AMP: Kenwood KAC-729S

Specs:
POWER RATINGS
Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 300 Watts x 1
Maximum Output Power: 600 Watts
Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.8% THD): 150 Watts x 2
Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD): 100 Watts x 2

Can I use this amp to run 1- 10" sub and my 4 component speakers.

Sub: 10" Sony Xplod 300W rms... 1100W Peak

Components: 4- Sony Xplod.. 3-way... 6.5" speakers. 50W rms... 220W peak.

Thanks

 

Nope.... you're going to run 5 speakers off of a 2 channel amp...

That amp will run that sub alone just fine, but you're going to need a 4 channel amplifier for your surrounds.

 

With those numbers I doubt that the amp can even handle the subwoofer duties very well.

The numbers indicate that it can only do 300W into 4ohms at 1kHz. What good is that when the amp will be pushing frequencies below 80Hz? Even it's 2ohm rating into 2ohms is poor. 150W at 1kHz doesn't tell you anything. Any amp can put out high power ratings when it is only specified at one frequency.

 

LS1 RULZ, I believe the 1Khz ratings are WHERE in the audio spectrum the THD was measured. That amp would probably run the sub just fine, especially since it's rated to push the recommended RMS input power of the sub. The only thing I would worry about is that since the THD was measured at 1Khz, it doesn't indicate what the distortion levels will be like in the lower frequency, where he'll likely be playing it.

Ok, if you used speakers with impedences that when all combined pleaced either a 4-ohm or 2-ohm load on the amp, you could run all the speakers on the single amp. Would it sound good? Probably not. Remember, that the amp only pushes out so much power, and all the speakers connected to it must share that amount of power.

So you can either:

A-> Run the components off this amp and have only right-left adjustment. To do so, wire 2 component sets in parallel on each channel (+ on one set to + on the other and the same for the minuses), this gives the amp a 2-ohm load. You will NOT have front-rear fading capability.

B-> Run the sub off this amp in bridged mode. To do so, usually you take plus on the sub to plus on one output channel on the amp, then minus on the sub to minus on the other output channel. Check the directions to be sure though. Doing this, you could probably run the components straight off the head unit.

I'd probably run option B. It takes a lot less power to make mids and highs loud, so the output levels of your head unit may very well be fine to keep up with the 300w of the sub. I've run several cars like that and they've all sounded fine.

Good luck.

 

Measuring THD at a single frequency is meaningless. If the specs don't specify that they were taken using a full bandwidth (20 - 20kHz) signal they are totally useless.