Help on new subs
Help on new subs
Hello to everyone i am looking to place sub in the rear hatch area of the car and never know i would have so many different choices to that i know JL makes a stealth box with a W3 speaker that hit hard and clear but half the price i can by one from MTX with the 4500 sub about 200 watts was told it was good or buy a empty box of the MTX and place the polk audio sub momo mm 2104 or i found another company and this is what they said i should do to have some bass Here is my recommendation on the sub and amp
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=34
Look especially at the specs and the rec. sealed volume. Perfect match for this box.
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=45
i never herd of them so dont know anything about how good they are or how bad they are or what is really worth the money or not the JL box is 550 w/the W3
the MTX box w/sub is 250
I can get the empty box and place the polk speaker in there from crutchfield for about 400
not sure what amp to get yet depends on the set up i was thinking of getting the 500/1 JL audio or if i get the MTX box and sub that will only handle 200 so i guess the 250/1
any help or ideas i say thanks in advance
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=34
Look especially at the specs and the rec. sealed volume. Perfect match for this box.
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=45
i never herd of them so dont know anything about how good they are or how bad they are or what is really worth the money or not the JL box is 550 w/the W3
the MTX box w/sub is 250
I can get the empty box and place the polk speaker in there from crutchfield for about 400
not sure what amp to get yet depends on the set up i was thinking of getting the 500/1 JL audio or if i get the MTX box and sub that will only handle 200 so i guess the 250/1
any help or ideas i say thanks in advance
ED subs are a GREAT speaker, well worth every penny they cost.
As long as you match the volume specs, and feed it with a clean amp (AKA no profile, sony xplode, etc) you should be very happy with the results.
As long as you match the volume specs, and feed it with a clean amp (AKA no profile, sony xplode, etc) you should be very happy with the results.
Hello to everyone i am looking to place sub in the rear hatch area of the car and never know i would have so many different choices to that i know JL makes a stealth box with a W3 speaker that hit hard and clear but half the price i can by one from MTX with the 4500 sub about 200 watts was told it was good or buy a empty box of the MTX and place the polk audio sub momo mm 2104 or i found another company and this is what they said i should do to have some bass Here is my recommendation on the sub and amp
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=34
Look especially at the specs and the rec. sealed volume. Perfect match for this box.
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=45
i never herd of them so dont know anything about how good they are or how bad they are or what is really worth the money or not the JL box is 550 w/the W3
the MTX box w/sub is 250
I can get the empty box and place the polk speaker in there from crutchfield for about 400
any help or ideas i say thanks in advance
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=34
Look especially at the specs and the rec. sealed volume. Perfect match for this box.
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=45
i never herd of them so dont know anything about how good they are or how bad they are or what is really worth the money or not the JL box is 550 w/the W3
the MTX box w/sub is 250
I can get the empty box and place the polk speaker in there from crutchfield for about 400
any help or ideas i say thanks in advance


My only concern is that you would consider lower grade stuff from crutchfield and pay more for it just because you've heard of the name before. You are comparing a couple entry level single coil woofers (mtx and polk) to a eD 11Ov2 which is a dvc sub capable of handling 500-600w rms.
No i was trying to get enough info on different things but yea every one tells me the subthump is better then the JL audio box as well , i know Jl is a fiberglass box with a w3 sub the ED i never herd of or seen , then i would have to find some one to install it all
I have the ED 11 kv.2 in the MTX Box
Just replaced an Xtant sub that blew a VC, and this sub blows the Xtant away for 1/3 the price
And as long as you give it enough power it will sound awesome
I have the dual 4ohm VCs and am powering it with a US Acoustics 2x80 RMS Amp. Although these amps are rated @ 12V (So it's a little more with the Alt), it still seems a little underpowered. Recommended power looks to be between 150 & 500 RMS, with about 400 looking optimum. They recommend their 2 X 200 RMS (Also rated @ 12 V)
, so you might even go for a 250 x 2 amp rated @ 14V.
ED is quality though I wouldn't look anywhere else for the price

Just replaced an Xtant sub that blew a VC, and this sub blows the Xtant away for 1/3 the price
And as long as you give it enough power it will sound awesome

I have the dual 4ohm VCs and am powering it with a US Acoustics 2x80 RMS Amp. Although these amps are rated @ 12V (So it's a little more with the Alt), it still seems a little underpowered. Recommended power looks to be between 150 & 500 RMS, with about 400 looking optimum. They recommend their 2 X 200 RMS (Also rated @ 12 V)
, so you might even go for a 250 x 2 amp rated @ 14V.ED is quality though I wouldn't look anywhere else for the price
STOCK.... Bwahahahahahahah
Nothing left of the stock system except the power wire, ground connection, and antenna connection to the head unit.
If you want to use your Stock Head Unit I suggest a PAC OEM-1 Adaptor to run after-market amps.
Although I found an after-market head unit provides many more features and better control over the amps
On top of that to wire in the OEM-1 takes as much if not more than installing an after-market head unit.
, although neither is very difficult with the right wiring harness
Nothing left of the stock system except the power wire, ground connection, and antenna connection to the head unit.If you want to use your Stock Head Unit I suggest a PAC OEM-1 Adaptor to run after-market amps.
Although I found an after-market head unit provides many more features and better control over the amps
On top of that to wire in the OEM-1 takes as much if not more than installing an after-market head unit.
, although neither is very difficult with the right wiring harness
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