Okay I got a new head unit yesterday 220 watts 55 x 4 channels. MP3/WMA ready blah blah blah. Anyways its made by dual and best buy installed it.

Well its all good except when you crank it up all the way the music just cuts out, and it looks like its still playing. However it won't play music regardless of what you do until you actually remove power from the unit. Like turn off the car and open the door. Pressing power on the unit does not resolve the issue.

So I took it back up there and they said I've got a factory amp thats causing feedback. And if I want to resolve the issue they have to rewire my car.

Now I like the use of the buttons on my car, so should I just buy a factory CD player off ebay and return this to best buy? This one is pretty cool it flips down, but I mean I am already turned off by the fact that I've got these useless buttons on my steering wheel.

- Z28Wannab

 

To use the steering wheel controls, you will need an interface. If your Dual has an infrared remote, the interface will probably work. Someone will probably chime in with the correct part and part number.

 

Yes you are right about that. I've decided I am going to keep it if I can correct the turning off issue. My friend said all I had to do was by pass the factory amp. Does anyone know where that is located?

- Z28wannab

 

Just run all new speaker wires from your HU to the speakers.

 

Right, I understand that, but thats a pain. If I can find the amp what I can do is just cut the wires and directly connect em' thus eliminating the need to re-wire the whole car.

- Z28wannab

 

The way I look at it is this. If you're gonna do it, do it right or don't do it at all.

 

The way I am suggesting is exactly the same way as what you are suggesting. However you are suggesting I run new wires, wires have already been ran. I just need to eliminate the factory amp and directly connect the ends. It is the exact same principal.

Besides I just want to know the location of the factory amp.

- Z28WannaB

 

What you are wanting to do is NOT the same as running all new dedicated wiring. The factory wiring is under sized and excessively long with splices, etc. New wiring is really the way to go for the best results and performance.

But if you insist on using the crappy factory wires I believe your amp is located under the arm rest in back on the passenger side of the car.

 

Running new wire would definitely eliminate the losses often found with factory wiring. Given the power of the HU however, I don't think it's worthwhile to do so.

If he's running amps then the improvement would be rightly justified.

What he could do is loop the wires at the amp rather than cutting them. Using #16 or #18 solid wire, jumper the respective holes in the amp connector.

I did this in the first rendition of my setup when I still had hatch speakers. The rear output from the HU was sent to the hatch area. I rewired the car for doors and sail panels, but didn't see a need for the hatch (since they're so small anyways). It worked out quite well.

In the final solution, I eliminated the hatch speakers altogether, full range in the doors, midbass in the sails..

 

I had this same problem with my new Pioneer deck. Turns out a wire to one of the speaker's was disconnected and was touching against metal and shorting the stereo out. It would just quite playing, but would still show the display as playing, and showing it counting through the time on the song.