I've heard L7s...12s and10s, a brahma 15, eclipse aluminum 15, etc.

There's no replacement for displacement. If you want SPL it's pretty logical to look at displacement. You want to move as much air as possible.

 

I would say that the MA Audio Kore 10 will smoke every sub talked about on here it will hold 10,000 watts peak power and 5,000 watts continous. Given the right enclouser size with lots of power will flat do some damage. check them out at. www.maaudio.com trust me i have done car audio stuff for over 10 years.This is one of the if not the hardest hitting and loudest subs you will hear today. and there 12`s and 15`s in Kore`s are straight insane.you might find a hard time getting them but are well worth the wait for them.

 

Also on the. www.maaudio.com site they only show the Kore 15`s and 18`s but the Kore 10`s and 12`s are rated the same 10,000 watts peak power and 5,000 constant. If you deside you like them and want that kind of sub.and have trouble finding them E-Mail me and i will try to help you out.Mike.

 

I don't think the Kore is made in a 10. Anyway, the XL 10 is the only one a see that would suit his needs. It still has less Xmax (the MA audio has 26mm peak to peak while the brahma has 28mm one way) although MA audio doesn't give out the driver's Sd I doubt it's much different from the brahma.

So the brahma still has more potential to get louder and will sound MUCH better doing so.

Just out of curiousity have you even heard of any of the drivers we're talking about?

 

Probably won't fit where you want it, but I would go with a JLW7. Best speaker on the market. It is expensive, but you get what you pay for.

 

Yes they do actually make 10`s and 12`s in the kore line up. In fact yes i am very up to date on all the products talked about here. Including some not mentioned in this post.As a U.S.A.C. Offical judge. This past year i would say that the Kore Line up has much.In terms of bang for your buck. to offer. The down fall being you need a very high powered very low ohm capabile amp with very clean power. like a U.S.amps or even MA`s own amps. Although U.S. amps has a much better T.H.D. rate.Everyone has there own personal prefrance. As to what they like best.This is just what i personaly have noticed in this years U.S.A.C. shows last year it was Mattis and JL next year.It will be someone elese as it always is.My advise to the member wanting a hard hitting 10. Is go out and look at all that is out there for your best needs.Do not just jump at the one thing that a car audio sales person trys to sell you. As you may find that something half the price will suit your needs much better. good luck in whatever you deside. Thanks For Your Time. Mike...

 

So what do you think about the ID MAX 10?

 

I think Image Dynamics all in all is a very good product. Also does not take alot of power to make there products scream. Case in point being mid`s and highs. However many places around this area try to sky rocket there prices. Which makes many people pass them up.You would be blown away if you really knew the mark up some places have in the car audio market. it is very common to see 200% mark up. in the install parts alone. Wire,fuse blocks,Encloseures, RCA`s,ect.

 

Why is the Kore 10 and 12 not listed on their websites? Why don't they give out their T/S parameters? I hear the Kore subs are one note wonders geared fully to SPL, they also don't handle as much as they claim. For their price there is much better out there. I haven't heard one so I can't say for sure but from what I've read they're not the greatest.

BTW, that does THD have to do with anything????? Especially in and SPL environment???? Please explain.

 

The reason why 10 and 12 Kore`s are not listed on the web site. Is because it has not been updated yet. Also the Kore line up is still a realatively new line.Look for it in the updated site due anytime. Also select authrized MA Audio dealers will have the info you are looking for. I can tell you first hand that i have personally seen the Kore 12`s take over 4,500 watts of power.To each driver and Loven every bit of it. As for the THD comment. Everyone knows the cleaner the signal. through out the whole system the better it is reproduced. Case in point U.S. amps has one of the best T.H.D. rates out there.0.009 T.H.D.Which makes Kore`s and U.S. Amps a good combo. As most amps that can produce the power needed to make the Kore`s work as designed. Have a high T.H.D. rate.Thus sound quality will suffer along with over all performance. With loads of power to boot. In U.S.Amps with most of there entry level amps being 1 ohm stable.Also a great many that can take 1/4 even 1/8th ohm loads.In my oppion would make this a great combo.The down fall is Price wise they are to expensive for most. But are top of the line type amp`s for pro or consumer even entry level performers. Thanks For Your Time. Mike...

 

THD is not really a useful specification. I've yet to see an amplifier for sale that had a THD high enough to be heard by the human ear. Have you? Maybe possibly a Jensen amp or pyle but who really uses those anyway? Here's some info that might interest you:

Total Harmonic Distortion:
When an amplifier is driven with a signal, the output of the amplifier is an amplified version of the input signal PLUS any distortion created by the amplifier. All amplifiers and signal processors add distortion to the signal. The levels of harmonic distortion in a high quality amplifiers are sooooo far below audibility that they are basically of no concern. When someone tells you that one amplifier is definitely going to sound better because its THD is rated at .002% vs an amp with .05%, you can be pretty sure that he doesn't know what he's talking about. Many people believe that THD below 1% is not audible and I believe they're probably correct. The fact is, especially in an automobile, the amplifier is the least of your worries. Speakers used for mids and highs commonly produce between 1% an 5% THD and for subwoofers the numbers can easily reach 10%. This doesn't even take into account all of the resonances of all of the plastic and metal panels in the vehicle.

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/thd.htm

There's even a link to a sound file with noise added to it if you want to see for yourself.

Also, THD is something that you really don't have to worry about for SPL, who cares about how it sounds when you're in an SPL competition, you just want it as loud as possible. The bottom line is THD is not really a concern in car audio as long as you buy a decent quality product, even still the junk won't have an audible level of THD.

Do you by chance have the T/S parameters for the Kore series? I would love to take a look at em if possible. I'm curious to see how these model up.

 

Please read again if you did not understand and as said in your own statment. Subs have a greater rate of T.H.D. As much as 5 to 10% trust me unless you just don`t have an ear for it you will hear distortion at that level.Also note that T.H.D. can happen at all levels of the spectrum from 20 to 20,000Khz which is all most humans are able to hear anyway not just one set bar note.as noted in the web page you have shown. So i would say that web page is very missleading to people. Distortion at high power levels.Can even cause small and large driver failure in the voice coils or spider area.I also believe that you may misunderstand what points i am trying to point out here. Because there is a very fine line between SPL vechiles and sound quality vechiles. Which has a much greater stage area in imageing such as heigth and width. The real competition such as the ones you see in U.S.A.C. Try there very best to meet that fine line. All in all. You are either one or the other.I would suggest you go to your local Autherized Ma Audio dealer or just E-mail Ma Audio for accurate Q and xmas questions for the Kore line up Thanks For Your Time........ Mike..

 

Yes, I have no idea what you're talking about, excuse my complete ignorance. I'm sorry Mr.U.S.A.C. Official judge who seems to not know what he's talking about and goes off talking about who knows what and forgets the task at hand. Go on thinking that you can hear .1% THD and that a THD over .009 will cause spider problems.

I really hope you're not really a USAC judge because if you are it's pretty sad that their judges are so ignorant.

What's this....? http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimate...=021481#000000

What's that richard clark says? That's what I thought. Seems you're the one that doesn't understand. About the only thing I don't understand are your posts because your grammar and sentence structure is that of a 10 year old.

Anyway guys, sorry for going off in a different direction with this topic. I just wanted to point out that THD is the least of your worries at this point (and that 96ssz28#395 is talking out of his ***). I hope this thread has helped you to decide which driver to go with next.

 

I do believe you need to first know WTF. You are talking about.As your so called buddy MR. Clark Said himself nothing below 3%. But as you stated in a past post here. Through the Subs this will increase to More Than 10% very easy and being the most of your power from the amps is High power usage to your subs you most likely will hear this on a low end amp. Like Your Buddy MR Clark Says As Well.Also let`s not forget him saying that you want to make sure that you have a amp that dose not run out of steam in the upper power levels. Which means try to get a amp that can do this efficently. thus strong signal, clear signal, and try to keep the T.H.D. to a min. This is why i was talking about such amps as the U.S. Amps line up. They are able to give you loads of power at a very low ohm load. Meaning 1 ohm and lower. With a very low T.H.D. Rate. So stop trying to turn my post around to say what you want them to. Open your mind up guy there are products out there that will blow you away. and some people have never even heard of them. As i was trying to openly let this guy who posted this thread know to look at all options before deciding what to get.Don`t just jump at the first thing a car audio sales rep wants to throw at you. Thanks For Your Time. Mike.

 

LOL. So hard to make sense of this but I will try.

Sentence Structure Grammar <-------You need em

What's this about high power usage? Are you talking about current draw? What does that have to do with anything? You want and amp that's efficient? Really, well I hate to break it to you but the efficient amps are the ones that are Class D and have higher THD ratings althought still inaudible, Class A/B (like your USAmps) are less efficient but have lower THD ratings. Efficiency has nothing to do with THD.

Also, Mr.Clark is refering to you having enough power to drive your load. If you're trying to run an MA audio kore 10 with a 300W amp with a THD rating of .000001% you're obviously going to clip the amp, this will increase the distortion hugely because amplifier THD ratings are measured when the amp is still putting out clean power (no clipping) when you start clipping the amp you start to increase THD greatly. Bottom line: have enough power for what you're running so you don't need to clip the amplifier.

I think most of the monoblock USAmps are one ohm stable. I highly doubt any of them would work well below 1 ohm without modification. Lots of amps are 1 ohm stable, big deal. My Cadence Z7000 puts out 1500W RMS@1ohm.

Why on earth would I want to turn around what you say? I read what you say and respond. What have I changed around???

I'm looking at products on the internet, and buying products from companies I have never seen in cars around here before. How am I not opening my mind?