I am planning on buying the JL-Audio stealthbox for my Z and i was wondering how hard are these to install? I do have T-tops and a monsoon stereo system. I plan on buying a 10W3v2 for the enclosure but i am just curious as to how hard it is to install one of these and run all the power wires and stuff for the amp. Im not used to F-body cars because i have only had this one for a few months. Thanx

 

First off, don't buy the JL stealth. Check out the stealth boxes from www.subthump.com Just ask around. MANY people here use his products. they are top notch. Next, I'm afraid adding a subwoofer to the monsoon system isin't just that easy. But it is possible. There are two ways:

The first is to by an OEM-1 made by PAC. Its plug and play with no splicing of the wires at all. It gives you a set of RCA (2 if you want) and a remote turn on.

The second way is basically an OEM-1 but involves you putting a few wires together yourself. Still dont have to cut any factory wires though. You will need a line level adaptor. I recommend an PAC SNI35. Then you'll need 2 radio wiring harnesses. A Metra 70-1858 and a Metra 71-1858. Take the 2 wiring harnesses and wire them together, color for color. You'll end up with a harness that plugs into the cars radio harness on one end and plugs into the factory radio on the other end. The blue wire in the harness will be your true remote turn on. Then take your line level adaptor and wire it into the speaker wires on the harness you just made. If you tap off the front speaker output the colors will once again match up. Now you have a harness that allows your radio to work exactly the same as before but with a set of rca outputs and a remote turn on.

Both ways are essentially the same thing, just that PAC has made it slighty easier.

The second way can be found using parts that you can buy at just about any car stereo store but requires maybe 10 extra minutes of work on the bench wiring it. Either way the price will range between 50-60 dollars.

Another option is just to splice the line level adaptor directly in to the cars radio harness. Perfectly fine but I dont like having to touch the factory wiring if I dont have to but its cheaper as you are only paying for the price of the adaptor and not all of the extra harnesses. You would hook the input leads of the line level convertor to the front or rear speaker out puts of the radio.

Cheap place to buy the wiring is www.knukonceptz.com Lemme know if you need any help on the actual install.

 

I already installed a Pioneer Head unit in my car....That was easy and all the speakers work with no problems what so ever. I was more or less just wondering about where to drill through the firewall for the amp and all that good stuff.....

 

Cool. Didn't know you already swapped headunits. There is no need to drill through the firewall for anything. Under the hood on the passenger side you'll see the PCM. Its far back towards the windshield. You'll see a lot of wires going in to a couple of harnesses that plug into it. Theres 2 10mm bolts that hold it in. Remove the 2 7mm bolts holding the harnesses in and set the harnesses aside. Then remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the PCM secure. Now you can turn the PCM sideways so that the part where the wires went is now facing the passenger fender. The PCM will now lift right out with ease. You could leave the harnesses attached but it causes you to have to struggle to get the PCM out of its cubby hole. You'll now see a rubber grommet in the firewall. You can fish your wire thru here. Now inside the car, go to the passenger kickpanel, up behind the glovebox you'll find your wire. Its usually easier to remove the kick panel to find the wire. Anytime you add any wires to the battery, make sure you fuse them within 18 inches of the battery. If you need any help with anything else, just lemme know.