Hey, I went to my local audio store and asked for some help from one of the salesmen. I decided that when I put a system in my Camaro that I would use one JL 12W6v2 (the new model, not the regular W6) subwoofer powered by a JL 500/1 amp. Do you think this would be a good subwoofer setup?

If I chose to go with the W6v2 would you recommend putting in 2 of them?

Is there a stealth box to fit a 12W6v2?

Would you recommend going with a W7? How much of a difference is there in sound quality??

Also, the salesman said that if I replace my head unit there is a possiblity that I would be forced to replace my speakers because of the Bose system that is in it now. He said they might need to rewire the whole stereo and I would need to use different speakers. Have any of you run into this problem?

I have heard that Camaros rattle a lot from subwoofers. Is this true? How much do you think it would cost to have the whole car "rattle-proofed" by someone?

 

I was reading a post on a car audio forum last week that I found very interresting. There was a lot of information from a couple different JL employees. One of them said that the new W6 actually sounds better than the W7. At very high power levels, the W7 maintains a more consistant sound quality, but at realistic levels (such as what you'd get from a 500/1), the W6 had a better sound quality.

 

That's the exact combo I want to upgrade to!

I'm currently running a 12w6 in a 12" stealthbox powered by a 250/1 amp. It sounds good, but I'd like to upgrade to a 12w6v2 and a 500/1 amp.

 

Hey thanx for the replies!

Keep em coming! Does anyone know anything about my speaker question? If I found out that if I didn't have to replace all my speakers that would save me about $700 so information on that would be really useful.

Anyone know anything about "rattle proofing"?

Thanks for the help!

 

As far as fixing the rattle problem, just Dynamat the hell out of the car, and that should take care of it. It's available anywhere that car audio stuff is sold... it's not real cheap though, but it works.

The Bose system is kinda strange... I don't really know for sure if you would need to replace the speakers too. But logically, you'd think you could just swap the head unit.

I know there's someone around here that knows the Bose system.

 

Yup,

Gotta replace all the speakers if you mess with any part of the system . The Bose setup has speakers that operate at very low Ohms (1 if I remeber correctly), and are powered by special Bose amps at each speaker. If you change the head unit it is recommended that you replace all the speakers. This requires re-wiring so that you can bypass the Bose amps.

This of course is easily solved by replaceing the speakers and going with External amps...

You can use the Bose Head Unit, buy a PAC OEM-1 and use External amps, but you still need new speakers. This is what I have done and would highly suggest getting a new Head Unit as well, sound quality is so much better from aftermarket units..

Eric

 

wow, thanx for the info even though that isn't what I wanted to hear.

are you sure that is the case with all bose systems? i have already asked advice from two other salespeople (one was at the same store) and this most recent visit was the first time i have ever heard of something like this.

 

Actually, 96 Z 28 I think he might be OK. I'll admit, I'm no pro when it comes to the Bose systems, but I've been around the BB's enough to pick up a few things. The Pac OEM-1 will allow you to replace the head unit and retain all your speakers.... THEN I'm almost 100% positive there is another adapter (made by PAC?) that allows you to add a sub woofer and amp. I am very confident that you WILL NOT have to replace all your door speakers. Check out the PAC website or something.
As far as sound deadening goes, unless you are competing, your best bet is to just find where the rattles are coming from and wedge something in there so the panels don't rattle together. Saves money AND works better to clear up your run-of-the-mill rattles.
The W7 really isin't worth the money. I'll admit, I personally think it is THE BEST subwoofer on the market today. (and that's a big statement!) But you can get a woofer that's very close in SQ and SPL for about half of the price of a W7. It's just to expensive for what it is.
Check out www.subthump.com for your 12" stealth boxes!

 

The PAC website? Does anyone know the address?

Thanks for your help everyone!

 

Actually FireBirdDude is correct.

I thought that you could not get away with keeping the Bose Speakers, but if you check out the PAC Website the OEM-1 does actually allow for the new head unit to power the Bose Speakers .

I thought it was only designed to allow the Factory Bose Unit to power aftermarket amps, but apparently it will go the other way as well .

I got mine here: Affsave PAC OEM-1.

So I guess you can save yourself a few bucks, thanks FireBird Dude

 

So if I have a 96 z28, do I have to buy the PAC to put a new head unit in to power the bose?