Amp Wiring....Is this BS or not?
Amp Wiring....Is this BS or not?
Ok, So I finally got my new car audio system bought today.....well so I thought...
Sony Xplod 1600W amp
2 JL Audio 12W6s
Alpine Deck
Well, I went to see about buying an amp wiring kit, and I need to get a 4 gauge wiring kit. The guy at the car audio shop in town said it cost 100$ for the kit, but since I already had the RCAs and remote wires run I would only have to pay about 80$. Why does this amp wiring kit cost so much? I know that wire cant cost more than 25$ at most to make. Anyways, do you guys know where I can get a kit for less that will make it from the front of my car to the rear, and is 4 gauge. He said it would probably have to be about 13 feet long. Thanks!
Also......do you guys think this is going to hit pretty good, and what kind of dBs do you think it will make?
Sony Xplod 1600W amp
2 JL Audio 12W6s
Alpine Deck
Well, I went to see about buying an amp wiring kit, and I need to get a 4 gauge wiring kit. The guy at the car audio shop in town said it cost 100$ for the kit, but since I already had the RCAs and remote wires run I would only have to pay about 80$. Why does this amp wiring kit cost so much? I know that wire cant cost more than 25$ at most to make. Anyways, do you guys know where I can get a kit for less that will make it from the front of my car to the rear, and is 4 gauge. He said it would probably have to be about 13 feet long. Thanks!
Also......do you guys think this is going to hit pretty good, and what kind of dBs do you think it will make?
Your getting HOSED.
Sure its near $100 if if you get like 20' of 0aug, distro block, RCAs, etc Check ebay, and www.ikesound.com (as I suggested earlier)
Will the amp accept 4aug power cable?! If thats the only amp your running, you only need the max that the amp can accept. No sense in getting a distro block, and stepping down.
As for how it'll sound... What resistance are the subs wired at, and how much power will be going to them? What kind of box, sealed or ported?
Sure its near $100 if if you get like 20' of 0aug, distro block, RCAs, etc Check ebay, and www.ikesound.com (as I suggested earlier)
Will the amp accept 4aug power cable?! If thats the only amp your running, you only need the max that the amp can accept. No sense in getting a distro block, and stepping down.
As for how it'll sound... What resistance are the subs wired at, and how much power will be going to them? What kind of box, sealed or ported?
if you already have the RCA's and remote wire. All you need it the power wire, fuse holder, fuse, ground wire, and possibly the peices at the end of the power and ground wire to bolt them down.
Does your amp accept 4 gage wire? I thought I needed that too and realized my amp only needs 8.
Why don't you just buy a fuse, some wire, and rca cables seperately? You might get better quality for less, but I realy haven't priced anything lately.
Go to circuit city or american. They have good stuff.
You should ask on the car audio forum.
Why don't you just buy a fuse, some wire, and rca cables seperately? You might get better quality for less, but I realy haven't priced anything lately.
Go to circuit city or american. They have good stuff.
You should ask on the car audio forum.
Ok, is it this amp? Its rated at 500w@4ohms, and 800w@2ohms.
The subs are 4ohm DVC. I didn't see that the amp is stable at 1ohm, so your going to have to wire the subs at 4ohms, only getting 500w to them. Yes it'll be loud, but not mind numbing.
The subs are 4ohm DVC. I didn't see that the amp is stable at 1ohm, so your going to have to wire the subs at 4ohms, only getting 500w to them. Yes it'll be loud, but not mind numbing.
yeah, thats the amp. Im not sure how im going to wire the subs up yet, but the box is ported, but I can plug up the holes if I have to. The reason the kit was so expensive is because it was a JL audio with a circuit breaker........my friend just told me that this morning, cuz he got that one.
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Actually, aren't all JL W6's dual 6-ohm voice coils? They're designed to be run in sets of 3, and to give a 4 or 1 ohm load when configured that way.
Two dual 6-ohm subs will give you either 6 ohms or 1.5 ohms. 6 ohms means your amp will be making about 300 watts instead of 500 or 800. 1.5 ohms could fry your amp. If you've got a good warranty, or lots of faith in your amp, hook it up at 1.5 ohms and put a couple of cooling fans on it. I'm not responsible if it lets out the magic smoke.
As for a wiring kit, don't buy a name brand kit unless you've got a show car. JL's wiring is not going to be noticably better than most of the generic stuff you can find on Ebay, so you're paying extra just because it says "JL" on it. You might call around to some local car audio shops and price 4 ga. wire from them. Around here you can buy it for $1.50 a foot or cheaper. Get a 16-20 ft. section for power, and a 1-2 ft. section for ground. Buy a circuit breaker or fuse holder off Ebay, and you're set. No need for a distribution block. If the amp doesn't accept 4 ga. then cut off some of the exposed wire until it fits.
Will it hit good? If you could get all 800 watts going to those subs, and you have the proper size ported box in your hatch, I could see you pulling 140 db out of it. That's optimistic, but I think it could be done. The problem I foresee is box size. Not much room to work in the hatch area.
Two dual 6-ohm subs will give you either 6 ohms or 1.5 ohms. 6 ohms means your amp will be making about 300 watts instead of 500 or 800. 1.5 ohms could fry your amp. If you've got a good warranty, or lots of faith in your amp, hook it up at 1.5 ohms and put a couple of cooling fans on it. I'm not responsible if it lets out the magic smoke.
As for a wiring kit, don't buy a name brand kit unless you've got a show car. JL's wiring is not going to be noticably better than most of the generic stuff you can find on Ebay, so you're paying extra just because it says "JL" on it. You might call around to some local car audio shops and price 4 ga. wire from them. Around here you can buy it for $1.50 a foot or cheaper. Get a 16-20 ft. section for power, and a 1-2 ft. section for ground. Buy a circuit breaker or fuse holder off Ebay, and you're set. No need for a distribution block. If the amp doesn't accept 4 ga. then cut off some of the exposed wire until it fits.
Will it hit good? If you could get all 800 watts going to those subs, and you have the proper size ported box in your hatch, I could see you pulling 140 db out of it. That's optimistic, but I think it could be done. The problem I foresee is box size. Not much room to work in the hatch area.
Originally posted by DropZ
Actually, aren't all JL W6's dual 6-ohm voice coils? They're designed to be run in sets of 3
Actually, aren't all JL W6's dual 6-ohm voice coils? They're designed to be run in sets of 3
The old style W6's are indeed dual 6 ohm. The newer W6v2's are not. That's where the confusion is. You're hurtin Captain.....
You can try to wire them in parallel to give your amp a 1.6ohm load, but don't be surprised if it goes into protection. If it does, then you need to run in a series-parallel config. And wiring kits can be had VERY cheap off Ebay. There used to be a bunch of 0AWG kits on there for like $23 including a d-block!!
Some other good places are www.darvex.com www.knukonceptz.com www.delcity.net Also, circuit breakers have no place in the car audio industry.
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