K, here are the rules to post your "fix its":

First, it has to be a true engineering issue. I'm the arbiter there. I reserve the right to flame you immediatly if you write something like:

"I don't like the color of the dash."

That's NOT an engineering issue.


Second, you've got to propose a solution. We can call in experts to address certain issues if you don't know the true engineering fix, but you have to BE POSITIVE. This is CONSTRUCTIVE criticism, the true voice of the customer (HOW DO YA LIKE THAT!?! I even threw in the "Moronic Quality Engineer Catchphrase of the Year"!) None of this:

"The widget sucks and so does the idiot who designed it." Nonsense.


Third, lines can blur relative to things like interior packaging, which are half styling and half engineering. I'll be gentle there, but you have to be reasonable.


***Note the moderators: Can we make this a sticky and keep TIGHT editorial control on it? I think if we keep the criticism constructive and smart, we can provide a valuable service to Red.***

 

Problem: No where to store tonneau covers when fully loaded for cross country trip.

Solution: Provide integral tonneau covers: (e.g. gen 3 / C5)

 

Problem: Rear Suspension squeek.

Solution: Rubber isolators on the rear springs where they meet the mounts would have helped tremendously with a minimal cost. I want a quiet rear suspension on my next Camaro.

 

Problem: The RKE keyfobs need more functionality.

Solution: Make the doors unlock when ever you come in a certain range. Also make it so you can start a car by pushing a button long as the key fob is in your pocket.

 

Here are some of the things I think need to be taken care od.

Chassis flex.
Converter hump.
Power window switches that work.
On the SS's I've driven the car would get pulled in
to the ruts on the road.
Good seats (easy just make a deal wth Recaro)
Not having to worry about the car spinning around in a
turn with rough pavement. (IRS)
Brakes that last more than 20,000 miles and don't fade. (call Brembo)
Better rubber seals for hatch, t-tops, windows.
A steering column that feels secure after 30,000 miles.
Paint to match on every body panel.
NIce tight alignment of the body panels.
No squeeks, or rattles coming from trunk area.
Better adhesives for trim around windows out side.
Better cluch and throwout bearing.
A drive shaft that doesn't vibrate when you go over 80mph.
Better lighting. (xenon's)
Nice sound system even the base stereo.
The radio in my car never sat the right way in the hole.
Cheap signal lever.

This is a good start. I can come up with some more if you like.

 

I think a retractable hardtop would be kickass, that would be an improvement over a cloth or 'soft top'. The only downside is the weight of it.

How about the dreded cat hump on the passenger side, hopefully it wont be there.

 

That's why the SSR weighs so damn much!

The odd thing is, for about 12 years... you couldn't even buy a Camaro convertible.

I just don't want a lot of BS added to it that brings the weight up. Keep it as light as possible.

 

Please make water channels to prevent water from spilling into my car when I left a wet hatch.

Also I think targa tops could attract a lot more customers than T tops....

 

Starting from the rear of the vehicle:

1) Problem: Exhaust system rattle due to rearmost hanger on the passenger side working it's way out of the rubber grommet that it is hooked into.

Solution: Put a slot in the exhaust hook and use one of the fasteners that holds the bracket for the grommet to the body as a positive retention feature that still allows fore/aft movement due to thermal expansion, but will not allow the hook to "back out".


2) Problem: Indented "Camaro" script on the rear valence collects wax. Minor gripe, but it's a pain in the a$$ to get all the wax out on a black car.

Solution: Flush the lettering and use a contrasting color.


3) Problem: The paint comes off the red bowtie on the lower passenger side of the rear valance (right next to the Z28 or SS badge).

Solution: Better paint, better paint adhesion OR round off the corners of the Bowtie more. The corners cause an area for a polishing cloth to snag or exert high surface pressure on and wipes off the paint.


4) Problem: Antenna rattling/working its way loose.

Solution: Positively retain the antenna with a different type of fastener instead of the blind-threaded "nut" that we have. The antenna still need to be removable, but we need to lock it in place somehow so that vibration doesn't work it loose.


5) Problem: "Sticky" hatchback. The hatch does not always open when it is supposed to.

Solution: Latch/seal/bumper redesign. The spring feature that actually pushes the hatch out of the latch needs more "oooomph". This is a difficult issue due to the need to seat the hatch against the seals, but it can be done.


6) Problem: Hatchback gap and flush to rear quarter panels.

Solution: Ties in with issue #5. It's actually a pretty complicated system to get right (you would think is was easy), but whatever setting fixture was used didn't do the job right. 1 - Set the gap and flush - the gap and flush MUST guarantee sealing. 2 - Set the latch. 3 - Set the bumpers and bumper preload.



7) Problem: Flimsy rear compartment trim. The stuff flops all over the place.

Solution: Stiffen the plastic panels with judicious ribbing on the underside that cannot "read through" the top, visible, surface.


8) Problem: The plastic "screws" that hold down the rear compartment plastic trim get all messed up by nearly ANYTHING you use to open them.

Solution: Use a harder plastic for the plastic "screws".


9) Problem: Spare tire tools and jack are a pain in the a$$ to get out of the car and use and get back in, and they're flimsy.

Solution: Universally speaking, from every manufacturer, these suck. I know because I used to make them. I also know the jack is only used a few times (at most) and is right at the bottom of the list for packaging. The problem isn't usually getting them out, it's usually getting them back in the right way, AND I HAVE A FRIGGING ENGINEERING DEGREE. Write the instructions clearly with LOTS of pictures.


10) Problem: Jacking points.

Solution: Well first, most folks are too lazy to read the owner's manual. Stamp or mold into the jacking points underneath a REALLY BIG ARROW and the words "JACK HERE ONLY". This is a place where it is easy to make up for lazy owners.


11) Problem: Suspension squeaks. My rear suspension sings to me over bumps.

Solution: Lube the bushings better or change the material. I swapped my bushings and most of my rear suspension for aftermarket parts, AND IT GOT QUIETER.


12) Problem: The red painted Bowtie on the wheel humbcap wears off for some reason or another.

Solution: I use standard, commercially available wheel cleaner (Meguire's Gold Class or whatever in the red bottle). It wiped out my Bowties on my painted 10-spokes in about 3 washings. Use a a more chemically resilient paint for them, or mold them into the hubcap.


13) Problem: Seat back bolster wear.

Solution: There's no way this seat passed a proper "Sliding Entry" test. The leather on the bolster takes a TREMENDOUS beating and mine look like hell now - and looked like hell after 7,000 miles. OK - I'm 6'3" and weigh 265 lbs. and basically "fall" into the seat against the bolster, but we've got to figure out something here. The seat feels good, so I wouldn't want to change that, but the finish on that particular leather panel needs to get tougher.


14) Problem: "Armor-All" ruins leather seats.

Solution: Many leather seats come with a little tag now that was put on at the factory describing the leather used. What they DON'T HAVE is a GIGANTIC NOTE that says "DO NOT USE ARMOR-ALL ON LEATHER SEATS - IT RUINS THEM". Now, I know you probably can't use Armor-All's name on the tag but we need to educate buyers on this one... (unless... you steer them towards their leather care product, and if you do THAT, they might pay for the tag FOR YOU).


15) Problem: Seat back "chuck" (this is fore/aft movement due to clearance fits at the seat back pivot and recliner attachment points). The passenger seat shakes when unoccupied.

Solution: K, I'm giving you a hard-won pearl here... PAY ATTENTION. The trick to fixing this is NOT to tighten up the pivot or recliner attachment clearances. The fix is even less expensive... What you do is hook up one side of a dual-sided recliner slightly out of phase with the other - a VERY minor difference in length between the two is required from side to side. This preloads the seat frame against the bushings and takes up all the free space in them. Now, the bushings WILL wear and the seat will get loose, UNLESS you use the right bushings - which are VERY TOUGH and can handle VERY HIGH surface pressures.


16) Problem: Black car + black interior + t-tops + sunny day turns the recliner handle into spaghetti. When it gets warm, the recliner handle turns to mush.

Solution: Up the glass content in the handle or change the material/shape.


17) Problem: The strap on the visor "sags" after a while. It gets droopy and won't hold anything.

Solution: In the pantheon of marginal ideas, this one is in the middle. Replace the whole thing with slots such as those found in a visor-mounted CD case. Cripes, it looks horrible.


18) Problem: Center console cupholder is useless w/ a manual transmission.

Solution: Figure somewhere else out.


19) Problem: Flip out cupholder feels flimsy. A 55 gallon drum of Pepsi commonly available at 7-11 (otherwise known as a "Big Gulp") seems to strain the thing terribly.

Solution: Again, beef it up or change the material.


20) Problem: Center console bolts not torqued completely down.

Solution: I torqued mine down. The problem is actually using a self-tapping fastener in an area around carpet. If any of the carpet gets in the hole while torqing the fastener down, you get an early false torque reading and the thing doesn't get driven flush. Keep carpet away from holes that need self-tapping fasteners.


21) Problem: Armrest lid squeaks.

Solution: Well, it seems that the spring itself is the problem. I've readjusted the screws on mine twice now - still squeaks when you rest your arm on it.


22) Problem: Armrest lid gap/flush to top surface of center console.

Solution: Take a hard look at that fixture at the supplier's facility. It isn't doing it's job well. Again.... set gap and flush and then torque the fasteners.


23) Problem: Rear side panel gap at corner to headliner.

Solution: Interior panels should ALWAYS have an interference fit to the headliner. Smash the living crap out of it - like 5mm's or so. The gap I am talking about is due to a radius mismatch between the headliner and the corner of the panel where the panel dives back to meet the hatch glass.


24) Problem: Christmas tree fastener that seats the headliner against the T-bar not seated.

Solution: Use a screw and a cover for pete's sake, or an expanding fastener. They aren't THAT MUCH more expensive.


25) Problem: Exposed screws.

Solution: The "flag" at the top front corner of the door (near the rearview mirror on the inside) has an exposed screw. NO EXPOSED SCREWS. Cap 'em or hide them so well that you have to take X-rays to find them.


26) Problem: Loose parking brake grip.

Solution: OK, I gotta be honest here... that's MY parking brake. Well, more correctly, it WAS my parking brake - I had responsibility for it at an old employer. The rivet that holds the grip on is inadequate. After repeated use, it wears away the plastic holding it and the grip gets loose. I told everybody and his brother I hated that thing, but no one would pay to change it. It USED TO be a roll pin (before my time...), which sucked even worse, but was changed to a rivet - which honestly isn't much better. The GM specification for grip retention needs to be improved. Increase the diameter or of the rivet or better yet - GLUE THE DAMNED THING DOWN. BTW - I can get your center console off without removing the grip...


28) Problem: General parking brake operation.

Solution: The F-car parking brake was an early attempt at self-adjusting parking brake mechanisms. Forget self-adjust. The plant guys will whine and cry, but I can make the system LESS EXPENSIVE AND LIGHTER if I don't have to have self-adjust and tension the cable with a treaded end fitting and nut at the handle. I can make it even LESS EXPENSIVE and LIGHTER by using a TWO CABLE conduit-reaction system. If I learned anything when I engineered parking brakes, it was that no one cares about them, so save money THERE.


29) Problem: Glovebox door gap and flush.

Solution: See above for the hatch and the armrest lid. Noting a trend?


CONTINUED...

 

You just built a $45,000 Camaro!

 

• Problem: Single exhaust
  
• Solution: True Dual Exhaust
  
• Problem: Not having the same seat quality (relatively speaking) as the Firebird.
  It stunk moving to the SS and not having storage pockets in the back, or a seperate, adjustable head restraint, or lumbar support.
  
  I will say that given their absence, the Camaro seats are still fairly supportive.
  
• Solution: Give both F's the same seat, and save $'s in the process thru quantity purchasing.
  
• Probelm: More headroom needed.
  
• Solution: Lose the crazy windshield angle and that is easily done as the roof will tend to be higher.
  
• Problem: Rear storage area oddly shaped, and small.
  
• Solution: Make the rear storage area (trunk) bigger, and not so oddly shaped. Per Pacer X's prior posts, IRS would be a key here.
  
  Live axles do not cause me any objections, however.
  
• Problem: Unequal storage areas in rear hatch area side to side.
  
• Solution- makes both cubby holes equal. If the passenger rear area can store a tire, why not have an equal size hole on the driver's side ?
  
• Problem: T-Tops are not easily adjustable for fit.
  
• Solution: Screw adjustable t-top mounting points that eliminate the need to bend brackets to compensate for wear & looseness that creeps in over time.
  
• Problem: A non user-friendly engine bay ! (Serviceability issues.)
  
• Solution: If the nose of the car truly acted as radiator intake, the motor & radiator could have been pulled forward.
  
• Problem: Bigger map pockets needed in the Camaro. Come on - I could put CD's in the Bird's pockets - no go in the Maro.
  
• Solution: make pockets the same size & shape as the 4th gen Firebird , or follow the Camaro's armrest curvature w/ the pockets.
  
• Problem: Poor quality/flimsy plastic in the rear interior trim. That turned me off the first time I looked at my buddy's brand new ' 99 .
  
  (Note that it did not stop me from buying, however - the LS1 took care of that. )
  
• Solution: Better plastic, or as mentioned before, plastic panels reinforced from the blind side in an aesthetically pleasing way.
  
• Problem: Pacer X is too **** in his posting requirements.
  
• Solution 1 : Force him to imbibe large quantities of carbonated fermented alcoholic beverages (beer). This should loosen things up.
  
• Solution # 2 : Hire pointy haired boss from Dilbert comic strip to oversee him . This will give him another frustration outlet in addition to fellow posters.
  
  

Note that due to the nature of this thread, it will tend to trend negative.

Please do not think that I think poorly of my car overall.


Thanks !!


Britt

 

And get rid of the rear seat cupholders. They are simply a joke....almost inviting someone to put a cup in that will tip over.

 

Problem: Inadequate/Useless Storage Areas that allow items to fly loose during maneuvering/acceleration/braking

Solution: More pockets/compartments better designed for specific uses. i.e. Change, Sunglasses, Cupholders that will hold under acceleration

Aside.....keep a large center bin, very useful.


Problem: Design time wasted on including CD Jewel Case holders that are not used by the general public. Temptation to change CD while drivign is great and jewel cases make it that much more dangerous.

Solution: Include a visor CD holder. Do not design CD holders to accept jewel cases. Most people use visor holders or their own cases in their cars anyway.

 

Problem: entering/getting out of car - I'm 6'1 and struggled with this everyday.

Solution: Fix the angle of the windshield rake.

Problem: Underhood access - 4th gens are horrible about making simple maintanence procedures nearly impossible to conduct. I want to be able to change my own plugs and wires without having to remove half the stuff in the engine bay.

Solution: Bigger engine bay.

 

30) Problem: Shifter.

Solution: This has been beat to death. The shifter is really bad, even the Hurst. I make rude gestures to my Hurst when I walk past it in the garage. The issue isn't that shifter manufacturers are idiots, but that GM needs to relax the NVH requirements on a performance car. If you're buying a Camaro - you're a performance nut. If you're buying a 6 speed Camaro, you're a HARD CORE performance nut. None of us care about NVH at the shifter... matter of fact, we kinda like it.


31) Problem: Sighting pane for the instrument cluster scratches easily and fogs up if the wrong chemicals are used on it.

Solution: It needs to be harder. Good polycarbonates, like the stuff they used for my glasses, is WICKED HARD and RESISTS SCRATCHING WELL. Yes, it's going to be more expensive... The current material looks horrible from scratches after a year, and certain commonly available interior cleaning products melts it.


32) Problem: Steering column scratches from keys.

Solution: YES, this is partially operator idiocy, BUT we need to figure out a better way to do this. Plastic is nice and tough but can look cheap.


33) Problem: Key release. I hate push-button key releases.

Solution: Hrumph... how about not having a key? Vipers have a pushbutton. Some European cars (Audi) use a card. Gotta be a better way to do this.


34) Problem: Flimsy shoulder belt loop on the front seats. I've bent mine more than once...

Solution: Beef it up. The problem is the thin gage material the screws are threaded into, not the loop. It's too wimpy. Oh, and while you're at it... DO NOT SPLIT IT SO THAT THE PLANT CAN THREAD THE BELT IN. Make the SUPPLIER ship the belt with the loop on it and THEN attach it to the seat in your plant. My Cavalier has the split loop and it BLOWS - the damned seat belt is always popping out.


35) Problem: Driver's side HVAC vent panel/headlight switch assembly popping out.

Solution: Look, Tinnerman clips are neat and everything... BUT THEY AREN'T THE KINGS OF RETENTION. The assembly needs a better attachment method.


36) Problem: The little detachable coin-holder inside the armrest needs to hold more coins.

Solution: Universal complaint that surfaced about 15 minutes after Prince Industries (now Johnson Controls) came up with the idea. So, Prince made a bigger one. Then no one wanted to buy it. BUY THE BIGGER ONE. Oh yeah... and make something that holds some pennies too (besides my useless center console cupholder).


37) Problem: Converter hump.

Solution: Been beaten to death. Gotta fix it for the next Camaro.


38) Problem: Rear end whine.

Solution: A newer IRS should fix this, but if a dealer told me ONE MORE TIME it was normal when my rear end was stock I would have shot him on the spot. Properly set-up gears DO NOT WHINE, or, they whine at a high enough speed that you can't hear it over the wind noise.


39) Problem: Grenading syncronizers.

Solution: We've got to beef up the T-56 in this area. If they meet GM's spec then GM's spec isn't tough enough.


40) Problem: Bent/broken shift forks.

Solution: Viper has a terrific 3-4 shift fork. Steal it.


41) Problem: Marginal clutches.

Solution: Clutches are a delicate balance between chatter, efforts, noise and durability. We need a better balance. If the F4's clutch met the GM spec, the GM spec needs to be improved.


42) Problem: Grenading rear ends.

Solution: IRS. Issue has been beaten to death, but Corvette rear ends don't explode. If the 10-bolt passed GM's spec, the spec needs to be tougher.


43) Problem: Piston slap.

Solution: GM provided a solution for this in 2002 (if I remember correctly), but left us with a hyper-u-xplode-it piston. Forge them AND make sure they don't slap.


44) Problem: Oil consumption.

Solution: Theoretically fixed with the Napier ring change in 2002, but there are apparently other issues that can cause it. Make sure it doesn't happen again.


45) Problem: Weak rod bolts.

Solution: DO NOT skimp on this fastener. Spend another $.20 each and give us "NIGHTMARE ROD BOLT FROM HELL".


46) Problem: Weak head bolts.

Solution: See issue #45.


47) Problem: Marginal valve control.

Solution: We need a beefier valvetrain, particularly at the pushrods and valvesprings. Yes, it shouldn't have to survive a 9000rpm mechanical over-rev, but it definitely needs to be improved.


48) Problem: Clutch hydraulics.

Solution: The drill-out mod works fairly well, and the new slave was an improvement too. We need parts at least this good right out of the box next time.


49) Problem: Wayward rocker arm needle bearings.

Solution: Make the supplier pay for the customer's new engine if this ever happens again.


50) Problem: Induction path.

Solution: NEVER, EVER put another set of baffles or a corrugated interior lid on a Camaro. Camaro drivers LIKE intake noise. Spend the money saved on better engine fasteners and forged internals. While you're at it, smooth out that bellows.


51) Problem: Hood shake.

Solution: Hrumph... kinda difficult without adding weight, but there has to be something we can do. Mine shakes like mad on Michigan roads.


52) Problem: Windshield wipers that break your windshield glass if you accidentally pop the hood with them in the up position to clean underneath them.

Solution: OK.... I'm a moron. But because I'm a moron and nobody did this study, I'm out $300. Save me from myself next time.


53) Problem: Throw-out bearing rattles.

Solution: Durability issue methinks... Mine sings to me. Nail that sucker down.


54) Problem: The rear seat back requires 10 foot arms to drop it flat because it has two latches, each on opposite sides of the car.

Solution: Single latch release.


55) Problem: Window regulators wearing out.

Solution: Yes, it's a big piece of glass. Yes, it's heavy. Yes, the seals dry out. NO, it doesn't have enough "OOOMPH".


56) Problem: Brake rotor warping.

Solution: The C5 brake supplier probably isn't going to have a whole lot to do with those tools by the time Camaro launches again. Even if he does, he'll probably appreciate the extra volume (think lower cost here...) - and so will the Corvette group...


I'll continue later as the mood strikes me...