My stock limited slip diff is shot I believe. I'm planning on putting in either a T2 or a T2R. I can get the T2 for $99-$120, and the T2R for about $495. I currently autocross and attend some trackdays. This car is pretty much just for nice days and racing, not a daily driver by any means. I'm under 400hp and will probably stay there. Is it still worth getting the T2R over the T2? I dont have a problem spending the $$$ if there is a better performance gain (other than durability, I dont think I will be breaking it).

Thanks!

--Kevin

 

Hi Kevin, is that a new price? There are good write-ups on both at Global West Have a read and choose your poison! If the the T2 you are considering is used there's no way I'd touch it.

 

Actually they are leftovers since they discontinued the F-body. So they are not even take-offs, but new. I found them at http://www.reiderracing.com/zexeltorsen.htm
The T2R I think gives a bit more on the ratio side (as in I think it goes to 80%/20% where the T2 only goes to 70%/30%. As in power to each wheel). Not sure if this is worth it or not. If it does help out a bit, I dont mind the price difference since it is heavier duty as well...

 

I read some write-ups on these at Stranoparts.com
According to that write-up, the T2 is suited to FWD applications. Not exactly our cup of tea! I have the T2R and like the way it works very much.

 

Thats strange that they say 'Front wheel drive' since its what SLP puts as an option into the SS. I talked to Zexel and they said the T2 was the correct Diff for our cars. I think I will go with the T2R though

 

I think you'll be happy with that decision!

 

I had the Extreme duty Zexel Torsen Diff. for 2 years before I destroyed it. It was really loose. (Had a lot of slop) I could turn the drive shaft almost a half turn before the wheels would turn.
Note, I don't do any drag racing, I ruined it road racing.
I had my stock 10 bolt POS completely rebuilt, that's when I had the torsen diff. installed with new gears, bearings and a TA cover. About a year later I had it repaired, that's when we found a bunch of metal filings in the oil. About a year after that, I sold it to a junk yard. The 10 bolt was fine until I started road racing.

Kurt

 

key difference: when the T2R lifts a wheel, the other side isn't left without power.

I wouldn't even consider the T2. I wish they made a T2R for 12-bolts or 9" Ford housings, but they have no intentions of doing that.

stock 10-bolt? T2R

 

I consider the T2R to be as good as 30hp. Simply because you are using more of what you have.

I have a T2R with GM 3.42's and have put 10,000+miles on it, tons of autocrosses and it is still working great. I used Mobil 1 gear lube no additive (its not needed) and have had no noise whatsoever.

It is the single biggest improvement of any mod when comparing an FS car to a ESP or SM car.


The reason a T2 is perfect for a FWD application is that it does not wear out and lose bias (just like the T2R) because there are no clutches. Also a T2R is so tight that in a front drive application you would get pretty serious torque steer.

A T2 will only be better than your stock Auburn in that it wont get looser over time. Again because of no clutches.

Go for the T2R trust me you wont be disapointed. I got mine from Sam at Stranoparts.com

 

I have a plain jane replacement T2 which is no better than a standard auburn or cone style diff except that it doesn't wear out. Wish I had a T2R although I hear they can be a bit of a handful in the wet in tight corners.

 

I heard they only made the T2 and T2R for 10 bolts, both 7.5" and 8.5" versions. Does anyone make a 8.5" 10 bolt for a fourth gen f-body? That way you could run T2R in a much stronger rear end. They make 12-bolts and Ford 9" so you think someone would make a 8.5" 10 bolt for our cars also.

 

I agree with lons94Z

I love my T2R

what a difference in putting down power out of turns

contact Sam Strano at stranoparts.com

in FS, I used to change the OEM style about twice a season

autocrossing just eats them up

 

One last question: For a 1996 Z28 (M6), its a 7.5" rear and the gear ratio is 3.23 or 3.43 stock?

--Kevin

 

A stock M6 is a 3.42 gear ratio.

 

Im getting it installed on Thursday. I got the 2 bearings w/ it, but no shims. Are they usually required and will the stock ones work or does is it really different for each car?

Also, is there a break-in period? I have an autocross school on sunday

--Kevin