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Wheels + Tires Combo Question

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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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Wheels + Tires Combo Question

The car will be up and running in a couple weeks (383 transplant ), and I was thinking of getting wheels + tires to improve the handling (stock 16" rims on there now). The car will mostly be used on the street with occasional trips to the local auto-X track. So:
a)Should I go with 9" wheels w/275s all around and not add much more weight?
b)Go with 9.5" wheels w/275s all around?
c)or go with 9.5" front w/275s and 11" w/ 315s in the back?

11" wheels all around would probably be the best for handling, but I am not doing this competitively so I don't think I will really need the heavier 11" wheels up front. Actually, what I am really wondering is, is there really a noticable difference going from option (b) to option (c) above? Thanks in advance.
Old Apr 7, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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(4) 17x9.5s wrapped in 275/40 GS D3s
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 05:26 AM
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going to 11's in the rear made for some killer wear on the front tires as I had to much bit in the back and introduced a bit more understeer tan i woulda liked.
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 07:31 AM
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Originally posted by kookamunga
going to 11's in the rear made for some killer wear on the front tires as I had to much bit in the back and introduced a bit more understeer tan i woulda liked.
Thanks, that was the kind of answer I was looking for.
Anyone else? Any significant pros to having 11" wheels on the back?
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:18 AM
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I'd avoid a 9.5/11" combo for track use. I really think these cars handle much better with the same size all around, but the wider rears will make a beginner feel safer as the rear has more grip and introduces more understeer. I did 9/11" on my 95 when I first started autoxing and doing roadcourse events and it made me feel more comfortable. However, I quickly learned I had too much understeer and balanced it out somewhat by going to a larger rear sway bar, but it still wasn't perfect. The rear end had great grip, but the problem was when I did push it to the limit there was a lot less margin for error before going into a spin. Plus with 11s you get into having to either massage the inner fenders or run the ZR1 offset (which precludes lowering the car much) and either way you need to run bump stop spacers with 11s in the rear. I can run 275s all around and not have any contact with the bump stop spacers removed on my car. This provides more travel in the rear, which is a good thing.

Anyway, find the lightest 9/9.5" wide wheel that has a style that you like. It may not sound like a big deal, but every lb of unsprung weight and rotational mass you can save will make a difference in ride, handling, braking and power put to the ground.
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 12:47 PM
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Originally posted by LT4Firehawk


Anyway, find the lightest 9/9.5" wide wheel that has a style that you like. It may not sound like a big deal, but every lb of unsprung weight and rotational mass you can save will make a difference in ride, handling, braking and power put to the ground.
Anybody you would recommend for a suitable price that provides lightweight 17x9.5 rims?
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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Any of the OEM wheels are fairly good, here's some figures I've seen:
WS6: 20.25
ZR1: 20.25
10 spoke SS: 20.5
Firehawk: 22
chrome wheels are usually 1lb heavier per wheel. You might also check into http://www.ccwheel.com/ They make very good wheels that are primarily for race use, but a lot of the Corvette guys use them for street use too. Probably one of the lightest and strongest wheels around for a reasonable price. Another option would be Simmons wheels: http://www.groupawheels.com/prod02.htm
Finally, if you've got tons of money to spend, Fikse makes some really nice strong and lightweight wheels that look really good. Just be prepared to spend $700-$1000 per wheel.
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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From: You know when they Quit Suckin that something is Wrong!!!!
Originally posted by LT4Firehawk
Any of the OEM wheels are fairly good, here's some figures I've seen:
WS6: 20.25
ZR1: 20.25
10 spoke SS: 20.5
Firehawk: 22
chrome wheels are usually 1lb heavier per wheel. You might also check into http://www.ccwheel.com/ They make very good wheels that are primarily for race use, but a lot of the Corvette guys use them for street use too. Probably one of the lightest and strongest wheels around for a reasonable price. Another option would be Simmons wheels: http://www.groupawheels.com/prod02.htm
Finally, if you've got tons of money to spend, Fikse makes some really nice strong and lightweight wheels that look really good. Just be prepared to spend $700-$1000 per wheel.
Good looking out Seen quite a few I like for a reasonable price

I <3 the Fikse, especially the FM/5, but I don't have the bank roll for those Plus, I rather spend that kind of money for things that don't involve the car
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:53 PM
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Originally posted by LT4Firehawk
I'd avoid a 9.5/11" combo for track use. I really think these cars handle much better with the same size all around, but the wider rears will make a beginner feel safer as the rear has more grip and introduces more understeer. I did 9/11" on my 95 when I first started autoxing and doing roadcourse events and it made me feel more comfortable. However, I quickly learned I had too much understeer and balanced it out somewhat by going to a larger rear sway bar, but it still wasn't perfect. The rear end had great grip, but the problem was when I did push it to the limit there was a lot less margin for error before going into a spin. Plus with 11s you get into having to either massage the inner fenders or run the ZR1 offset (which precludes lowering the car much) and either way you need to run bump stop spacers with 11s in the rear. I can run 275s all around and not have any contact with the bump stop spacers removed on my car. This provides more travel in the rear, which is a good thing.

Anyway, find the lightest 9/9.5" wide wheel that has a style that you like. It may not sound like a big deal, but every lb of unsprung weight and rotational mass you can save will make a difference in ride, handling, braking and power put to the ground.
Always good to get some input from people who actually put their cars through some corners Thanks a lot for the advice.
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 09:36 PM
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Originally posted by LT4Firehawk
Any of the OEM wheels are fairly good, here's some figures I've seen:
WS6: 20.25
ZR1: 20.25
10 spoke SS: 20.5
Firehawk: 22
hmmmm... my authentic ZR1 rims were 19 and 21 pounds for the 17x9.5" and 17x11" sizes respectively. that ZR1 stat is either for an 11 inch rim, or one of the ZR1 immitations. (AFS makes both "A" mold rims which are ZR1 weight, and a heavier version that is in line with the weight listed above).

chrome wheels are usually 1lb heavier per wheel.
no way, no how. I know I've seen this statement floating around the internet, but it's undeniablly false. I know, cause I had 2 sets of authentic ZR1 rims. Rim size was the only spec that affected the weight. One set was painted silver, the other was already chromed as a dealer option (CA car). Likewise, with the dealer-chrome wheels on my car right now, I have several statements from chrome-plating shops that have told me the weight will be almost identical once the paint is removed and the thin electro-plating is performed. If there is a pound of chrome/nickle/copper put onto every wheel they do they'd be broke overnight.

Finally, if you've got tons of money to spend, Fikse makes some really nice strong and lightweight wheels that look really good. Just be prepared to spend $700-$1000 per wheel.
I belive Fiske has a deal on 17x9.5" rims if you get their 5-spoke design. They're located in the valley, just down the road from one of the Boeing assembly plants and suprisingly, they have some of the most high-tech, lightest wheels you can buy.

If you want to go MORE expensive than Fiske you still have various options, but I doubt the difference is any more than name-brand mark-up, finishing services, or exotic materials (i.e. magnesium, and stupid-expensive materials not even worth mentioning...).
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 09:41 PM
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Just an quick note:

The 275/40ZR17 Eagle F1's on a chromed ZR1 17x9.5" rim were EXACTLY the same weight as the stock 16" rims/tires I took off (245/60/ZR16 Firehawk SZ50's).

50 pounds even for each tire/rim combo.

GM makes some nice rims, but the aftermarket deffinitely has some weight advantages (I belive ZR1 rims were produced by AFS to Corvette-specs... hense the AFS cast-in logos inside the rims ).
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 09:53 PM
  #12  
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Re: Wheels + Tires Combo Question

Originally posted by Camaro_Maniac63
The car will be up and running in a couple weeks (383 transplant ), and I was thinking of getting wheels + tires to improve the handling (stock 16" rims on there now). The car will mostly be used on the street with occasional trips to the local auto-X track. So:
a)Should I go with 9" wheels w/275s all around and not add much more weight?

Don't bother. Weights between 9.5 adn 9 will be negligable, but the 1/2" will help stiffen any tire sidewall you add. This is when weight loss probably isn't worth it
b)Go with 9.5" wheels w/275s all around?

Choose wisely and you'll have NO increase at all. This will make tire rotation possible, and tire selection easier. This is how I'm trying to set up my TA right now.
c)or go with 9.5" front w/275s and 11" w/ 315s in the back?

315's in the rear take some doing. I had this set up, but had an unfortunate accident with one of my 315's. The 11" rims stayed, but I currently have 285's wedged on there and they are nice and stiff. 315's really feel "soggy" under acceleration, and due to the narrow design of most tires on the road... and hense road grooves... the 315's really track the grooves around town and on the highway. yes, they look MASS cool, and yes, they stick like fly paper, but in daily driving they really are a PITA. Don't even get me started on the muscial-wheels I had to play to use the spare

17x9.5 is perfect for the street IMHO. Anymore and groove tracking gets unbearable for long drives.
11" wheels all around would probably be the best for handling, but I am not doing this competitively so I don't think I will really need the heavier 11" wheels up front. Actually, what I am really wondering is, is there really a noticable difference going from option (b) to option (c) above? Thanks in advance.
yep, c is more expensive, looks cooler, gives you braggin' rights, is a real pain to use on public roads, elliminates any chance or rotating your tires, and may give you some clearance problems to set up initially
Old Apr 9, 2004 | 08:24 AM
  #13  
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First of all, thanks for the advice. But I am confused on something.

When I e-mailed AFS about the weight of their ZR1 replica wheels, this is the response I got (I am copying and pasting):

"The weights are as follows:
17x9.5 56mm chrome – app. 23.8 lbs.
17x11 50mm chrome – app. 25.9 lbs."

So Steve, what you are saying is AFS makes a different kind of the 9.5" ZR1 replica wheel that weighs in at ~20lbs? Thanks.
Old Apr 9, 2004 | 08:56 AM
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The weights I posted above were just estimates, nothing to take as set in stone. As to AFS, I'd heard that they reduced the weight of their wheels, but if those are the weights they are quoting then they obviously haven't. Your best bets for good lightweight ZR1 style rims would be either to order 17x9" SS/ZR1 style wheels from SLP (on sale for $599/set right now):
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...RTNUMBER=80072
They also have a chrome version. These are OEM GM wheels and are some of the lightest around, and yes a 9" wheel will work just fine for good handling (it's what I currently use).
Or you could order actuall GM 17x9.5" ZR1 wheels from one of the discount GM suppliers (Jason Cromer, Dal, gmpartsdirect.com, etc). This route will cost you a lot more, probably close to $300/wheel.
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