I currently have stock shocks/springs (130k miles, don't laugh) and stock swaybars and bushings. In the past, my car was primarily a drag/daily driver. I want to start trying out driving schools, RR, etc but would like to take the slop out of my car before I do. Keep in mind that it has 130k miles, so just stop yourself if you were planning on saying "drive it first" .

I want a suspension that can do it all (be streetable, soft enough for drag racing and stiff enough for RR). I understand that what I'll end up with is a setup that isn't really that great at anything, and I'm ok with that.

My question is, for a novice who might do 2 driving school events a year, would HALs on their stiffest setting with 1LE Springs up front and stock springs in the back, along with 1LE sway bars front and back be "decent" on a road course?

Thanks,
Chris

EDIT: Disregard sig below, that has got to be 3 years old. Related mods to suspension questions:

-SS take off rims
-Spohn Adj. Torque Arm
-Custom (cha-ching) 12 bolt w/LCA reloc brackets*
-BMR LCAs
-BMR Adj. PHR
-KBDD SFCs
-15" Centerlines with 26x10.15 Hoosier QTPs

 

What your trying to do is not going to be easy. Your car will always be a so so drag car and same with rr. But if that is what you want to do here's my advice. RR: Get a 35mm front sway bar. I dont have one but everyone who I have spoke to who owns one loves the thing. Next get some 17's or 18's rims and throw on the stickest tires you can. (Kumho victor racers, or something else like em) As far as shocks go hals are great. I would try to get some springs that won't lower the car. Coil overs would be the best but would hurt you at the track. Drag: Buy some used salad shooters of draglites if you can afford them and throw on bfg drag radials. If you get the 15' draglites you can get 315/60/15's in the bfg's. Drop that front sway bar and adjust your shocks you drag racing.
The shocks and springs will play a big role with your ability to launch the car. With two sets of rims you can be go either way. The faster you go on the both tracks will require more mods heading that direction. Hopefully you find out which you like more and make it a all out car. Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply! I should have been a little more specific. I have a 12 bolt and a set of slicks at the track. I’m not really looking for advice on the drag side of things; I understand the sacrifices I’m making there. I already run 17” rims and am planning on just putting a set of sticky street tires on those for the RR events, the car doesn’t see many miles anymore so wear isn’t too much of a concern.

I definitely don’t want to lower the car, stock ride height is a must due to ground clearance. Hence, the 1LE springs up front and stock springs in the back. I have the oldschool Spohn adj torque arm for the Hooker/Mufflex combo and I drag the focker over speed bumps at stock ride height.

Let me rephrase my question; are HALs at their stiffest setting along with 1LE springs in the front and stock springs in the back stiff enough to get me by at a “performance driving school”? I do have some room to move around on the sway bar, I was leaning towards 1LE mostly because of cost but am open to suggestions. I was basically trying to mimic Randy Brown’s car (best combo car I’ve ever seen) though I think he runs bilsteins.

 

Call Sam Strano and get his advice. It'll be the best phone call you can make and he won't steer you wrong.

Order line: 800/729-1831
Tech line: 814/849-3417
Fax: 814/849-6305

 

ay, w/ street tires on a road course, it won't matter much if you got HAL or Koni...you won't have enough traction anyway

35mm sway bar would be good, the new hollow one from Strano (still waiting for my shipment) is said to be only a few lbs heavier than the 1LE bar

 

This may be true, but for now I'm just looking to have fun. A second set of rims/tires may find their way into my garage someday though. Everything I've read has said it's best to start out with a set of tires that might not grab as well but would sing to you a bit before they let loose. I've always heard it's better to not start on a set of slicks that far excede my ability, isn't that when trouble happens? Anyway, I appreciate the input, but my question still remains... Will HALs on their stiffest setting be reasonable on a road course?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Personally, I have no idea how stiff a HAL shock is. But more importantly, it's all relative. It depends on the spring rate you decide to use, your springs and shocks should be matched as closely as possible to have the proper control of the spring. Come close to a spring rate, then pick shock that will effectively mange it.

 

Is it easier to change the springs and shocks using the G2 coilover setup?
If it is are there any aftermarket drag shocks that are compatable?
It might be a good to have a different set of springs and shocks for each type of racing. This would be expensive though.

 

I seriously do appreciate all the input, advice, and suggestions. That being said, I don't want to do anything more than swap rims/tires, hook up the front sway bar, and move the LCAs up in the bracket before I hit a road course event. I do have a fundamental understand of suspension and the relationship each component has in conjuction with one another as well as it's overall affect on my ability to launch, stop, and turn the car. What I don't know still remains, with the setup I listed in my first post...

Will HALs on their stiffest setting be reasonable on a road course?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Will HALs on their stiffest setting be reasonable on a road course?

Thanks,
Chris [/B][/QUOTE]

I think the reason no one is answering your question is, no one runs Hals on a road course, or even autox. That should tell you something... Not trying to be a wise-guy, but I suspect if Hals were good for RR, people would be running them.

With 130k miles, I'd say the first thing you should do is make sure the suspension parts are in good shape - bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings. Make sure the car will pass tech, first. For one or two events a year to have fun, I'd guess stock replacement stuff should do fine.

Get the car aligned. Do some site searches - I suspect you'll find max neg camber and pos caster, zero toe to 1/8 total toe out will do.

There may be requirements on driver and passenger restraints, ie. seat belts. Check with the groups you want to run with.

Don't forget the brakes. Fresh fluid, maybe a pad better suited to RR.

Now, shocks. Do you already have the Hals? I'd guess for RR/drag you'd be better off with Koni's. You can lower the front using the alternate spring perch on a Koni SA and gain some neg camber if you ever feel the need...

Aren't the Hal's an adjustable "coil-over"? I'm not sure the 1LE springs will even work on a Hal?

Sway bars. The Strano set seems to be the best all around - sizes, weight...

Call the vendor of your choice. Strano will spend lots of time with you on the tech line.

I strongly suspect the Hal adjustment controls rebound and compression at the same time. My guess is with the Hal on full stiff (and stiff enough to give you the rebound necessary for RR) that the shock would be too stiff in bump to be of any use on a road course.

Probably not exactly what you wanted to hear (again)...

Good luck!

 

On the contrary Jeff, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you very much, I appreciate the advice.

Chris

 

Concerning race tires (for autoX anyway), I would recommend holding off on them for a little while and just run with your street tires. Yes, street tires do suck, but it will force you to modulate your throttle/brakes more precisely, and you will actually be able to hear (in the form of tire squeal) when you are getting close to the limit of lateral traction. It'll improve your actual driving skills, since race tires tend to cover up many driving mistakes/bad habits...

Just my opinions...

 

Thanks! That is exactly what I was getting at in my reply to MrBig. Everything I've heard in the past is 100% in line with what you just said. I appreciate the input!

Chris

 

Chris, I have a question, do you plan on NOT having the front bar hooked up and your LCA's down for normal driving???

 

For normal driving, I keep the sway bar connected but the LCAs down in the lowest point on the bracket.

Chris