Im ordering 4 17x11 50mm offset wheels so they tuck up as much as possible and I know up front if you trim the plastic cover and use a 1/8" spacer or trim the spindle they will fit, in the rear my car is clearanced for 9.5" wide wheels with 285's and a 65mm offset with a 1" drop, do you think I will need a spacer with the 50mm offset if im clearanced that much already and if so would the the suggested 1/4" spacer damage studs, I'm not really going to be drag racing? Also where the hay do you get wheels spacers?? Thanks!

 

I highly suggest you replace your studs with ARP's. For cheap spacers, go here:

http://www.cmwraceparts.com/Wheels/w...heel%20Spacers

$9.00 each. They aren't hubcentric (but I don't believe that matters on our cars with 1/4" thickness). They aren't cast and fit nicely over the studs to stay centered. Here's a pic:

http://www.cmwraceparts.com/images/dixon/wlspacer.jpg

 

just thinking out loud here, but would using say a 1/4" spacer on stock WS6 rims and street tires do any good? like i said just asking. thanks. trey

 

Trey, I keep them on the rear of mine, no sense taking them off.

SPACERS
1/4" TO 3/4" THICK HUB CENTRIC FLAT SPACERS $40 EACH.

THANKS FRED GOEKSE

Fred Goeske
Design Deluxe
21300 Deering court
Canoga Park, CA 91304
Voice (818)992-5700
Fax (818)992-0325
www.wheeladapter.com

 

cool put what about the fronts? would it do any good up there? thats if i can do it without killing the fenders.

 

You'd be fine, you're only looking at about 6mm additional offset.

 

So whats hubcentric and is it nessicary, I like the 8 buck a piece ones better for price if they are ok to use... and in the front I heard to use an 1/8 spacer but would it be ok if I just trimmed back the spindle? Also like if my fenders are clearanced like I said in the original post would I need a spacer with teh 50mm offset 11 inchers with a 1.5" drop (only dropped 1" now but planning on 1.5") Thanks for all the help!

 

Hub-centric simply means it will fit perfectly over the raised circular area on the hub. It's just a more precise fit. The spacers I got are billet aluminum and basically weigh nothing.

Make sure the spacer you get is not a universal spacer, you don't want one that has the possiblity of moving around.

You MIGHT get away with trimming the spindle. I might try that on mine to see but it might be January before I can do it.

 

I have a Trans AM with G2 springs ....

The trimming needed is basically a little "bump" on the knuckle face. Ironically, it aligns perfectly with a the lip of a 17" wheel.

With a Prospeed brake kit up front, a 3/16" spacer is needed between the rotor and the hub for clearance purposes. But the 11" ZR1 50mm offset rims clear the calipers w/o a problem, so no wheel spacer is required. However, running a WS6 rim does require an additional 1/8" spacer so the spokes don't hit the caliper. I do get some rub on the plastic inner fender while turning. NBD, though

I run a 50mm offset 11" rim in the rear and I had to clearance the inner fender to keep them from rubbing. I also rolled the lip for insurance.

 

so with a 50mm offset up front if I can clear enough of that bump on teh spindle away I wont even need a spacer?

 

I believe that is correct. And to clarify, a 4" right angle grinder made short work of it and I ground it smooth, flush with the surface.

However, I'm not 100% sure as I have that spacer between my rotor and hub so the rotor doesn't hit the lower A-Arm.

If you can wait, tonight I will measure the distance between the 50mm rim and the knuckle (bump removed) with the spacers I have.

 

Wow that would be great if you dont mind, thanks a bunch, by the way where in Texas are you?

 

With a 3/16" spacer (needed to space the PSM rotor away from the lower A-Arm) and using an AFS ZR1 replica wheel with a 50mm offset, I see about 1/2" of clearance between the wheel lip and the face of the knuckle.

If you deduct out the 3/16" spacer, there is still 5/16" clearance AFTER the bump is ground off.

These measurements were taken with the a tape measure while standing on my head, suspension at full droop and no swaybar. The car is on jackstands awaiting some much needed TLC.

HTH

BTW ... I live SW of Ft. Worth near Motorsports Ranch in Cresson

 

Yes and no..... They are a better fit, but the reason wheels are hubcentric is so the weight is carried on the hub and not solely on the wheel studs. You'd really want hubcentrics if you can do it, and like was mentioned earlier, upgrade you studs. That's even more important if you will not have hubcentric wheels anymore via use of a generic spacer since the studs will have a lot more stress put on them.

Besides for the price of ARP studs ($15 a pack of 5), it's not worth NOT doing it if you autox or track your car, regardless of spacer type or even no spacer at all.

 

man i wish i was still in machining school. id make my own instead of paying forty bucks. oh well.

so would it help to go with a small spacer. i know it would make my stance wider, but would such a small increase help enough to justify the $200 cost? Trey