Shift points and/or pressure...

Anybody got a file they use for the track? I'm about to start on one and was just curious if anybody had any good methods or tips.

 

I asked this question some time back. Most people seem to put the car in 2 after pulling off the line and leaving it there. I'm not sure that I'm satisfied with this, so I've been thinking about putting in the "performance" switch and setting up the performance tables so that they only shift on the command of the shift lever.

I might make it a summer project.

 

My goal is not to touch the shift lever. I need 1st a lot too so leaving it in 2 is out of the question. I have a 2.73 rear. I really don't think this will be hard at all. Just some trial and error. Shoot me an email if you decide to do anything interesting.

 

Honestly, leaving it in 2nd is probably the most predictable method. You could always leave it in 1st and only bump it to 2nd once you needed it. Some tracks that my club's import drivers design never let a V8 get out of 1st gear. But that's pretty rare. You can either let it downshift on it's own coming out of a slow turn or pull it down yourself as soon as you hit the gas. Just don't yank it down in mid corner or you'll loose the back end and spin out.

 

Well, here is a site you can use to help you decide how to play with shift points.

http://www.f-body.org/gears/

I'm sure you can figure out what to do with the info.

Failing that, you could put in the 3:73 gears, and I'm sure you won't have a problem needing 1'st gear; although, I must admit that while it will pull from a very low speed in 2, it just doesn't feel like it is all there.

 

My car has a problem on the local courses coming out of a corner in 2nd. Some turns are near 180 degree corners, not turns. I need 1st, no question. My biggest goal I think, without starting yet, will be getting the 2nd shift pt up high enough to where I'll be in 1st at the highest rpm feasible.

We have classes for each category of vehicle so I don't have any funny rules like the import rule. That's sad, dude

 

My car has 2.73's as well and it is very difficult to get it back in first gear when you are doing a 180 degree turn or pivot cone. I have to wait until I begin to apply throttle and then pull it into first. It is hard to give it enough throttle to make it downshift on it's own. I start with it in first and manually shift up and down. I know the manual downshifts can't be good for the transmission but I don't see any other way.

 

Jeff94 and Silver,I got the Transgo Heavy Duty Stage 2 Competition/Off road kit for my 4L60E trans in my auto V6.
Silver it will get you the rpms your looking for.Jeff/Silver you can shift when you want up or down w/firm solid higher rpm torquey shifts...granted you kinda can now stock(that you dont like how it does it) but this kit allows RIGHT NOW operation manually of the trans up or down w/o that little pause it does waiting for the rpms levels when trying the 2nd to 1st. 1st reved up taking 2nd at peak I chirp the v6 its that firm. I recomend you try this kit it'll help alot.
Tony

 

You could also look around on brent franker's site. He has a number of flash files there under the editor section. Chances are, you'll find something you can use.

 

Been there. Seems nobody is interested in tuning the tranny, especially for autox. Most are in manuals or only drag race. That's why I posted here. I'm gonna drag out the laptop soon. I'll let you guys know what I end up with. I don't think it will be very hard unless the pcm throws me some curves in the form of unpedictable behavior (ie: ignoring my shift points, etc)

 

I have used those files that were specifically set up for A4 and the Hypertech as a basis to begin modification to get firmer shifts. You may find that shift points are a bit differnet in these too. I'm not sure, if that will help, but failing that, you just need to think about what speed you want the tranny to shift at and then experiment with it. Sorry I cna't be more helpful.

 

Yeah I can get my shift points feeling good. But I think the pressure is going to have a lot to do with how effectively it goes to the right gear on the track. I'm thinking of raising the constant pressure a little too, although that's getting a little over my head as far as how much to change it verses how much of a change you want. My converter isn't positive like it used to be. A bit of slippage. I'm sure too many more races and it'll be toast hehehehe