POTENTZ, be careful with this design, because if you compete at all, your class will be destroyed. Street Mod is very wide open, but when you laterally connect your subframes your screwed.

--Kevin

 

Oh! Be careful with the Recaro SRDs if you have a waistline about 34". They are made for little skinny Italians I think I had to get the Evo2s from sparco, but they sat a little too high, so I mounted the seat to the slider, and the slider to the floor directly (used spacers for the rear 2 bolts because of the dip in the floor). Works well and is well centered. The passenger side cant work this way because of the transmission hump.
--Kevin

 

Dude.. you don't like Recaro SRD's? I have a 33" waistline.. I think the seat is perfect.. it's meant to hold you in tight...

I didn't think Sparco made base brackets for the floor... where did you buy yours?

Steve

 

I got mine at OG Racing. They are in Manassas VA, and you'll see ads from them in just about every magazine. I thought the Recaros came were too narrow for your legs, as in the side bolsters that rise vertically from the bottom of the seat went into the edge of my thighs rather than beside them. They do end up conforming to you w/ time. My sparcos feel completely different becuase Im in one every day and the other doesnt get used too often. Everyone I know who has gotten cheaper seats though (as in Corbeau mainly) thought they were getting something like Sparco or Recaro, and were very disapointed after 3-4 months when all the padding compressed and they had parts of the frame jabbing into their tail bone... I was going to get the Recaros that have the AC built into them and the dampening, but I couldn't find one of that model to sit in first.

 

I miss it often... The T/A is faster on the autox course, but I think the 1LE handled better at higher speeds like on a road course. I think the SLP Bilsteins are a little soft for the rought stuff, and the 1LE Koni DA's are a great shock! The T/A also has a 50-60 rwhp advantage

 

umm, using an aftermarket torque arm doesnt wear u-joints.

setting the pinion angle too far below level is what does that (ie-6* below level)

 

The stock Torque Arm is a VERY long & Very Large Spring, that is why when you try and recover from a large drift in one direction, the car not only corrects but whips around so hard that most people OVER correct and more often then not, spinout. The Torque Arm is designed for Bound & Rebound in and Vertical Fashion, and for that it does wonders. But in tight turns it is being forced to work horizontally or laterally, this is something it does Not Do Well.

Here is a visual. If you take sword and use it the way it was intended, like slashing at something, well, you could do some real damage to someone or something. But, if you turn the blade 90 degrees and slash with it in the same direction, when you hit something it will just wobble around, same basic concept with the Torque Arm.

Another problem with the unwieldy Torque Arm is that under heavy/ tight turning it can allow or even pull the inside wheel off of the ground, making the power going to that wheel less effective, and with an LSD it will increase the power to the one wheel with good traction there buy over loading it with power. Then, around you go.

Most after market Torque Arms allow for a much greater range of movement and strength, in all directions. And allow the rear end to be planted much flatter. So in that respect the After Market Torque Arms do add traction. But I suspect, not the kind of traction you are referring to. I would recommend a set of LCA relocation brackets, which correct a great deal of suspension geometry especially when the car has been lowered. This moves your instant center forward and will help launching far more than a Torque Arm. But I do highly recommend a Torque Arm To Anyone with an F-Body.

I bought a MAC Torque Arm for 200.00 from them directly and it was the stoutest piece I have seen produced YET, Bar NONE! But it is a hefty undertaking and I would definitely have a shop or someone with a Lift and a good deal of time to install that particular Arm for you. It is a B*tch to get it in, but once you do, you will notice a difference.

Combine both of those pieces and you should have a combo that hooks and keeps it planted in the turns.

Hope this helps.

 

W/ spohn TA's they have the front mount either in bushing form or rod spherical end. Is there a difference in performance w/ one over the other? Or is the rod end just going to be louder?

 

First, nothing that is mounted in Polyurethane is going to transfer power better than something that is hard mounted (PERIOD)!

Second, if you look at the big picture, the power coming through the TA (in stock Form) has to not only go through the F*CK up bushing but then it has this flimsy attachment to the back of the transmission and that is in turn attached to the Body & the Exhaust system.

If the TA attaches DIRECTLY to the body either by creating its own NEW mounting point or an new bracing system and it completely negates the old style of (to the back of the Transmission) then it will transfer power better and more evenly. Then the only down side is increased road noise. But lets not pull any punches, the road noise isn't incredible, it is just more present.

 

I'll second the road noise, I get to hear my diff wind down at every stop... The other bad side effect is it will increase rear wheel hop under hard braking.

--Kevin