JSkeet

what are the best **BUDGET** brand swaybars to use for Autocross Competition? My '94 Z is getting lots done to it before next spring's Autocross season begins and I want swaybars for sure.

Here's a short list of what'll be done to the suspension/chassis:
-Spohn Tubular Lower Control Arms and Relocation brackets
-Lakewood Adjustable Panhard bar
-boxed upper panhard bar
-Tubular Strut Tower Brace
-Tubular Subframe Connectors

I'll be keeping the factory shocks all the way around for the first season anyway. The car also might get a 4-point rollbar just at add some stiffness. (I dont really care if I have to chop the car up, a car is a car...)

I understand the hollow/solid swaybar differences. In theory, hollow would flex... solid wouldn't. Hollow weighs less, solid weighs more.

But what's the tried and true best bang for the **BUDGET** buck? I'll be looking to pick these items up either second hand or score some in a junkyard.

Thanks Fellas,

John


ps: I know with my mods I'll be in a high class but I dont want to be #1 just yet... and no, I've never driven in an Autocross event, and yes, I know its best to know the car before I start modding it but I dont want to auto-x it and break parts, so I'd rather just beef it all up now and come out with a totally new animal.

TxAgZ28

If I may make a suggestion...

Use the money you were planning on spending on the above listed modifications, and get a set of Koni single adjustables (4th generation Konis), and a Suspension Techniques 35mm solid front swaybar. I wouldn't bother with a rear swaybar just yet.

I can guarantee the two above modifications (especially the shocks) will completely transform the way your car feels, even off the autocross course. It will be a MUCH better use of your dollar$, and we all love our dollar$ to stretch as far as possible.

Take it to an alignment shop and get them to set max camber, max positive caster, and 0 toe. With stock springs, you'll end up with around -.7* camber, which will be just fine for a street driven car.

Total cost to you:
Konis: ~$820
ST35mm Swaybar: ~ $150
Alignment: ~$75? Depends on your area...

This is my 2 cents, take it or leave it.

JSkeet

well, your info is welcomed and appreciated but i'd like to add that the above list of moddifications is all second hand parts.

right now i've got the panhard bar, strut tower brace, and LCA's and i'm at a total of $210. I'll box the upper panhard bar myself at a cost of $15 for steel so i'll just need about another $100 to spend on subframe connectors.

I cant swing the $800 shock kits right now due to my car #1 needing ignition upgrades and #2 about to go under the knife for a water pump and head swap.

I really want to feel/drive a car with Koni's on it already. I've never been in a car setup for auto-x only street/strip bruisers. They all feel so stiff and heavy... My old '84 Camaro needed suspension/chassis work so bad it was unreal. I drive my '94 and it feels like a $1M compared to my old '84

Jeff94TA

The problem is that the stock shocks absolutely suck and your best upgrade is to replace them. They are a much better modification than sway bars but I understand that they cost more. A cheaper solution than the Koni's are Bilstein HD's but they are still more than your sway bar budget.

With that said there is something to keep in mind since you've never done an autocross. Go out there and get some seat time before you start modifying! You are not likely to break anything and it will give you the opportunity to see if you enjoy it before you spend the money. The best modification you can do is to fine tune the nut behind the wheel first.

EastLa

Number one mod for autocrossing I'd have to say is shocks.. Koni SA is absolutely the best. I've had Bilstien and KYB, and will never ever use KYBs ever again. Bilstiens were too soft for autocrossing, and require more spring.

As for budget swaybars, go with the 1LE front and rear, or the 1LE rear and the Strano 35mm front.
I have Strano's 35mm front and 22mm rear, and they are top notch.

The front bar will do you more good than doing anything to the rearbar, so if it comes down to shear dollars, just buy the best front bar you can.