A while back I installed a Kenny Brown level II suspension kit. It seems pretty good. (note: if you do not have subframe connectors, log off and go buy some right now, if you can, made a great difference) When I installed the rear roll bar end links, I just tightend them up, but they probably need to be torqued to a specific amount.

If so, how much, or does it matter as long as they are tight.

Thanks

Lance

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95 Z28 M6 (CFFB #19)
FEELUKY
Susp: Kenny Brown Level II, 2001 SS wheels.
Eng: SLP headers, LT1 Hotcam, CAI, and other minor stuff.

90 Vette Z51 MN6
406 in the works.

 

The torque spec is 17fl-lbs if I remember right. But basically if they're poly bushings, tighten them just until the poly buldges a bit. Not very tight. And they should be even on both sides, assuming one isn't preloaded.

Dave

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1997 LPE 383/n2o Camaro Z28 Convertible
12.39@112.2, 1.76 60' (na) 11.27@124.6, 1.76 60' (n2o)
LT1 Diagnostics, New to Nitrous? Northern California Racing Club

 

Is that spec with the suspension loaded or unloaded?

 

Gotta be loaded. I wouldn't install a swaybar with the suspension hanging down.

Dave

 

Lance dont forget to make sure the shaft insulator bushings(where it connects to dif.)The slits face rear on rear bar. Front= slits to front.
Prob already knew but...HeY
Boy I think I will get the kenny browns,you sound pretty stoked.Alot stiffer?

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_ __________________ _
Hella Clean Dark Green Metallic 98 3.8 L60E Coupe:Fast toys Ram Air,Holly filter,Whisper lid,160 Thermo,Man.fan switch,Purple ice wetter,Eibach Pros,Koni adjustables,BMR sways,Prothane bushins,Transgo kit,Magnaflow cat-back.National Auto Sport ***. member/student.

 

Ok, i am about to install my front and rear sway bars and also a panhard rod. Does the suspension have to be loaded (on ramps) or can i do it with the car on jack stands and the wheels off the ground. Also I have an adjustable panhard rod. How do I know it is adjusted properly?

Thanks
Andy

 

It'll be easier to jack the car up and bolt the bars bushings and endlinks but DON'T tighten....then drop the car and adjust/tighten to specifications.

Panhard rod: Measure up the bolt holes so that the new bar is equal to the old, then bolt it on. Afterwards, you might want to use a tape ruler and measure both sides using maybe the wheel to the chassis or the panhard rod itself.

Perhaps others have a better way to explain where to measure both sides.

Also, from experience, I would recommend some Loctite or other nut/bolt tightener. Shortly after installing my PHR, the adjustable nuts on the bar loosened a lot so you need to make those stay put.

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95z A4 3.23 89K
In order of install: PSlot rotors/PF pads, Flowmaster CB, Moroso CAI, descreened MAF, TB bypass, BMR STB, GMS LCA, 1LE sway bars w/Prothane Bushings, BMR SFC, cutout, BMR PHR

 

Trace,

Thanks for the replies. I will try it this weekend and see how it goes.

Andy

 

My manual said the slits go toward the front on both front & rear swaybars. Was this a typo or does it make much difference except at the track??

 

Maybe different for earlier years.I did get my info originally from chiltons 93-98 manual. At the time I hadnt looked,but I checked this eve and thats what it says to do. As a fact says MUST do so.Front face front,Rear face rear.(93-98)
As far as only for the track??? I dont think so,Has to do w/the forces being exerted on the bushing as to keep the slit on the less strained side.The slit would be a weakness on the pressure side allowing flex,or more movement on the slit wearing it. I THINK.
T.