Anyone have a recommendation for street/auto-x/road?

GC coilovers 600#fr & 150#rr, revalved, bilsteins, upper and lower BMR front A-arms are going on in the morning. Sway bar on now are ST 35&25mm w/ the option of putting on the 21 which seems to be the choice for most.

She is mostly a a twice or 3 time a wk driver so tire wear isn't a concern for the most part. Drive hard in the corners here since the roads are mostly that and more challenging.

Initially I was thinking
-1 camber
0 toe
+3 caster

Now after reading some previous posts
-1.5 to -2 camber
0 toe still unless there is better option
+4.4 - +5 caster

Want to be able to still run high speeds here on the autobahn and feel stable yet kill 'em in the corners when need be.

Thanks for any help!

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93Zm6 Blk TT stk 3.23's

Engine mods:
Balanced & Blue printed 396 Forged Lunati internals, Stage II Heads, Taylor wires, NGK TR55's, Accel 300+ & coil, 95+ opticrap, AS&M 58mm TB, ATI damper, AFR Rev Kit, FLP's & Borla exhaust w/top flight corvette cockpit exhaust adj, Metco AFPR, Accel 30lb inj, Ed Wright Chip, 160 stat, Hurst Pro Shifter,
Mcleod Street twin & alum fly, TPIS 3.5 DS, T/A Cover w/ stud kit

Susp mods: Flowtech adj. TA, KB SFC& 3 PT STB, Eibach sportline springs, Bilsteins shocks, Hotchkis PHR & LCA w/ Spohn LCAB, Poly tranny mount, Suspension tech sway bars 35&25mm, Baer bump steer rods, Baer Track system 13"F 11.7"R drilled/slotted/zinc plated, steel braided lines

Cosm mods:

Ultra Z hood(funtional)K&N, G2 5" rear spoiler & front Gfx, Rytek headlights(oval version),DGmotorsports carbon fiber dual foglights, G2 world challenge wheels 17x9.5 Pwdr coated BLK, Falken 45 ZR17's 275/40, RK smoke signal covers, fire ext, chrome throttle cover, chrome fuse box, chrome LT1 badges, carbon fiber emblem

Interior: Corbeau Targa RS seats & Harness, G2 Harness Bar, RK Wht face gauge, G2 pedals & door sills,
Auto Lite Oil, Tranny temp guage, & FP guage
Future mods: Upper & Lower A-Arms, coilovers, revalved bilsteins
http://community.webshots.com/album/40511381WqPSWB

 

Just had mine aligned today
-1.2 camber
0 toe
+4.5 caster

Not sure how it'll work out yet, but my main goal is to even out the front tire wear somewhat (normally I wear the outside edges LONG before the inside) and provide a bit of a handling boost.

 

I agree with Dave's specs. I installed poly bushings in my a-arms recently and made the big mistake of having everything put to stock specs (-0.5 camber). This sucks, and as I recall that caused my tires to wear excessively on the outer edges in the front. My car has HORRIBLE push now, and I need to take it back. Previously I had -1.1 camber with EVEN tire wear in the front.

- Brent

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~Project 12's DAMMIT!~

'94 Z28, M6, Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Lingenfelter CAI, MSD-6AL, March Pulleys, Hotchkis STB, Spohn LCA brackets, Cutout, G-MAF, straight-pipe'd cat. (for the track only of course , MAC LCA's & Panhard Rod, Susp. Tech. springs, 287 RWHP / 321 FT. LBS.,

member, http://www.teamnwfbody.org

My page: http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/compstall

 

Well I don't know what my original settings were. I had put Baer bumpstops in and had it aligned yrs back. Never had uneven tire wear only a slight wear on the edges when at the track pushing hard.

I think I'm going to go -2 w/ camber I can always change it later if I don't like it.

 

I have been running -1.5 deg camber for 3 years on Bridgestone RE-71's, Yokohama AVS Intermediates, Advan A032Rs and Kumho Victoracer 700 275mm front tires with perfectly even tire wear. ... And with $4500+ of suspension upgrades (not including a few sets of wheels/tires or labor) using all spherical bearing or rod-end connections/pivot points, I assure you that I love to feel G's on every corner I can find. Based on my even wear patterns, you could probably go with a little more Camber. However, depending on the flatness and rigidity of your wheels/tires, your braking may get a little twitchy if you go too far.

I don't recall my Castor settings off hand. I went with LG Motorsports values for the Castor.

As for as Toe, in my opinion:
Toe out - good for autocross, but twitchy on the highway. Zero toe - good compromise, but still a little twitchy at higher speeds and best for drags. Toe in - better for high speed stability and not as responsive on autocross.

Rick R

 

Well I went w/ -2.1 camber, +3.5 castor and 0 toe. Rides well from what I can tell and tracks a little at medium speed. Nothing I haven't dealt w/ before. Now another problem. But I'll make it a new topic.

Thanks guys for the inputs.

 

I went -1.5º camber and wish I had more, was also told to go with 1/16" toe out which I didn't know at the time, car pushes without it and was told this helps.