Spring install
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,713
From: Orlando, Florida, USA
Spring install
What kind of tips can you give me?
I'm pretty mechanically enclined. But it looks like the 2 rear screws on the driver's side are right below the brake master cylinder. Is there a trick to getting those out?
Are there any websites like installuniversity that show the process in detail?
I'm pretty mechanically enclined. But it looks like the 2 rear screws on the driver's side are right below the brake master cylinder. Is there a trick to getting those out?
Are there any websites like installuniversity that show the process in detail?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,148
From: Bay Area, CA
www.projecttransam.com or your TRUST HAYNES/CHILTONS, you do have one right? 
The master cyl gets unbolted and moved out of the way. You use Torx 50 I believe on the shock nuts that are torx. Use the spring compressors carefully for these 'stiff' and thickly coiled springs, they can and DO come off if your not carefull. With that in mind basically all I mean is compress each side evenly, and do not do 50 turns on each side at a time. When stabailizing the spring body to turn the compressor, likewise make sure your not going to rip the compressor off.
The master cyl gets unbolted and moved out of the way. You use Torx 50 I believe on the shock nuts that are torx. Use the spring compressors carefully for these 'stiff' and thickly coiled springs, they can and DO come off if your not carefull. With that in mind basically all I mean is compress each side evenly, and do not do 50 turns on each side at a time. When stabailizing the spring body to turn the compressor, likewise make sure your not going to rip the compressor off.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,148
From: Bay Area, CA
For $20, I like having it in front of me, instead of internet hooligans like me who may have no idea what they are talking about. When its all layed out, it goes much faster because you know the order to do things, and have it all planned out.
I rarely follow the rules though, they ask you to remove the sway bar, I didn't. They ask you to pop the ball joints off? I didn't do that.
Same thing on my 240Z, they want you to remove crap from the rear suspension when doing springs, I didn't have to.
Once in awhile its worse than that, there was a Ford manual that stated you had to drop the transmisson and a bunch of other crap (6 hour job estimate) to replace a plastic gear, turns out there is a single cover blocking it that is easily accessible. How stupid is that, sometimes the manuals aren't perfect. Removing extra stuff though may be the "proper" way to do it, allowing you better access yada yada, but there are tricks you learn along the way, I still like having a manual though.
I rarely follow the rules though, they ask you to remove the sway bar, I didn't. They ask you to pop the ball joints off? I didn't do that.
Same thing on my 240Z, they want you to remove crap from the rear suspension when doing springs, I didn't have to.
Once in awhile its worse than that, there was a Ford manual that stated you had to drop the transmisson and a bunch of other crap (6 hour job estimate) to replace a plastic gear, turns out there is a single cover blocking it that is easily accessible. How stupid is that, sometimes the manuals aren't perfect. Removing extra stuff though may be the "proper" way to do it, allowing you better access yada yada, but there are tricks you learn along the way, I still like having a manual though.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,713
From: Orlando, Florida, USA
Yeah, I have them for other cars. Just not the SS yet. It's still under warranty anyway.
Cool thing - When I picked up my SS from the dealership the other day (new front left shock, ...) they told me that putting new springs wouldn't void my warranty as long as I didn't go insane and drop it so low that it scraped the ground. They even gave me some install tips.
Cool thing - When I picked up my SS from the dealership the other day (new front left shock, ...) they told me that putting new springs wouldn't void my warranty as long as I didn't go insane and drop it so low that it scraped the ground. They even gave me some install tips.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,007
From: Folsom, CA, USA
Originally posted by 2002Z28SSConv
Cool thing - When I picked up my SS from the dealership the other day (new front left shock, ...) they told me that putting new springs wouldn't void my warranty as long as I didn't go insane and drop it so low that it scraped the ground.
Cool thing - When I picked up my SS from the dealership the other day (new front left shock, ...) they told me that putting new springs wouldn't void my warranty as long as I didn't go insane and drop it so low that it scraped the ground.
Dave
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,148
From: Bay Area, CA
If you move the end links out of the way/remove them, that should take care of it. I use a jack under the A arm on both cars, you can also rotate the front shock assembly and if you get the angle right slip the coil over assembly out that way without touching the brake lines.
On the 240Z this is not possible, I was doing brake lines anyway though.
On the 240Z this is not possible, I was doing brake lines anyway though.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 8,319
From: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
i got this off someones webpage...haven't done it yet but it seems fairly thurough:
SWAY BAR AND SPRING INSTALLATION
Tools/Parts Required:
• 13mm & 15mm flat wrenches (although a full set is preferable)
• 13mm & 15mm sockets (although a full set is preferable)
• 21mm socket (if working on a 97)
• Torx bits
• Spark plug socket
• Spring compressors
• Rubber mallet (or a hammer with a pad of some kind)
• Hammer
• Pickle Fork (optional)
• Bearing grease (to lube bushings)
• Waterproof grease (for the shock nuts in the strut tower)
• Coarse sand paper (for sanding new bushings, if needed)
Front:
1. Remove the wheels, then the original sway bar.
You may have to remove the sway bar even if you aren't changing the bars just to get it out of the way. You will at least need to unbolt the end links. On the driver's side, the front sway bar bushing doesn't connect with 2 bolts as shown in the manual - it has 1 bolt and 1 stud. Over the stud is a little bracket which attaches to inside the wheel well and inside the front fender behind the wheel well. You have to get it off to unbolt the stud and remove the sway bar. The 10mm screw inside the wheel well is easy. The one inside the fender requires fiddling around blind with a 10mm flat wrench to get it backed out. Once off (it's not going back on), put a glob of silicone over that bolt hole to prevent rattles and only bolt the bracket down to the other 2 accessible holes.
2. Unbolt the tops of the shock units from under the hood.
On the passenger side, there is enough clearance around the A/C pipes, but you need to be careful not to damage them. On the driver's side, you must first remove the master cylinder by unbolting two 15mm nuts and carefully easing the cylinder out of the way. You don't need to open the cylinder, so no brake bleeding will be necessary. This side has the Torx head bolts. You may find it easier to remove the two small plastic clips that hold the brake-lines apart from each other.
3. Unbolt the lower end of the shock units from the lower control arm.
At this point, you have a choice. The manual says to remove the lower arm from the lower ball joint. But removing the upper arm from the upper ball joint is easier. To do that, remove the cotter pin and back off the castle nut several turns. Don't take it off completely or when you separate the ball joint, the knuckle will fall off and stress the brake hose before you can catch it. Take your rubber mallet and whack the end of the ball stud several times until the joint separates and bottoms against the castle nut again. Then you can unscrew the nut all the way and separate the upper arm from the knuckle. This sounds more complex and difficult than it is in practice. Make sure to support the lower control arm once you remove remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint (so that it doesn't fall down all the way and stress the brake line). Using a regular hammer may work better so as to "shock" the balljoint. Using a pickle fork (< $15 tool) makes this much easier - you can jack up the lower control arm (so as to raise the upper control as well) and then jam the pickle-fork between the ball joint and the steering knuckle. If the ball joint pops, cool. If not, lower the jack and the spring will push the lower control arm back, which will pull the upper control arm down, which will have the effect of popping the ball joint (since the pickle fork is in the way).
4. Remove the shock unit and upper control arm.
You don't actually need to remove the upper control arm, but it should come out anyway to make reassembly easier. The unit should slide right out with a bit of coaxing as it weighs 15 - 20 pounds. You should now be holding a unit of the shock body, two spring perches, and the spring. Whether you are changing the shock or spring, or both, you need to get them apart.
5. Decompress the spring
The spring is under a lot of compression and unbolting the top without first installing spring compressors will cause injury to yourself! Attach the compressors and crank them down until the spring is loose. You are now almost ready to unbolt the top retaining nut. Before you do, though, take note of the orientation of the upper shock mount to the lower shock mount. You'll need to have things lined up when you bolt it back together. There is a little rubber piece on the top mount which aligns nicely with the front lower mount hole. Unbolt the top and slide everything off. Now you have the spring compressed with the shock dust cover rattling inside it because it can't fit past the jaws of the compressors. So uncompress the spring and remove the compressors and the dust cover. When selecting which coils on the spring to locate the spring compressor on, make sure you leave some room for the spring compressor to expand as the spring decompresses (as the spring will elongate). Make sure to leave at least 2 inches of threads between the end of the threaded shaft of the spring compressor its finger/jaw.
6. Reassembly
Assemble the new pieces in the reverse of order. Be careful when you attach the compressors to the new spring that they are located so you can fit the spring over the shock and get everything bolted back in place (including the dust cover). Be sure to line up the upper and lower shock mounts. Compress the spring, then bolt the unit back together. Uncompress the spring, and remove the compressors.
7. Reinstallation
You should now have a shock assembly in your hand ready for re-installation. You should cover the top nut and the threaded portion of the shock rod with some kind of water proof grease. Water tends to sit in and rust the nut and shock rod. This will make future removals easier. At this point, it helps to have an assistant to help orient the unit as you slide it back up into place. You can bolt the top mount into place then the lower mount, but it might be easier to get the bolts in the lower mount first since with the control arm all the way extended the bolt holes won't all line up right. Torque them down and install the ball joint stud, castle nut, and cotter pin. Refit the master cylinder (if on the driver's side). Repeat the process on the other side.
8. Sway bar reinstallation
Bolt on the sway bar and fit the end-links. You might not be able tighten the end-links completely with the car on stands, so put the wheels back on and drop the car and then finish tightening the bar end-links. You may also want to use the jack to jack up one side of the car to start the nut on one end-link, then jack up the other side of the car to start the nut on the other end-link.
Rear:
1. Rear spring removal Put the back of the car up on stands and remove the wheels. Unbolt the end-links and sway bar. If you are not changing the bar, you may not need to do this. Unbolt the large nut from the lower shock mount (on a 97 car, the nut will require a 21mm socket). Use a jack to gently take the axle weight off of the shock and pull the shock free of the mount. Gently lower the jack and drop the axle until you can pull the spring out from the seat. Take note of the orientation of the spring (which directions the ends of the springs are pointing). If you put the rear springs in at a different angle, you may experience a clunk when going over bumps. Be careful of the brake hoses.
2. Rear spring installation Put the new spring in the seat and raise the axle up again. Stick the shock back in the mount and bolt it down. Repeat the process on the other side. If you are changing the bar, then bolt on the new bar. Put the wheels back on and drop the car.
SWAY BAR AND SPRING INSTALLATION
Tools/Parts Required:
• 13mm & 15mm flat wrenches (although a full set is preferable)
• 13mm & 15mm sockets (although a full set is preferable)
• 21mm socket (if working on a 97)
• Torx bits
• Spark plug socket
• Spring compressors
• Rubber mallet (or a hammer with a pad of some kind)
• Hammer
• Pickle Fork (optional)
• Bearing grease (to lube bushings)
• Waterproof grease (for the shock nuts in the strut tower)
• Coarse sand paper (for sanding new bushings, if needed)
Front:
1. Remove the wheels, then the original sway bar.
You may have to remove the sway bar even if you aren't changing the bars just to get it out of the way. You will at least need to unbolt the end links. On the driver's side, the front sway bar bushing doesn't connect with 2 bolts as shown in the manual - it has 1 bolt and 1 stud. Over the stud is a little bracket which attaches to inside the wheel well and inside the front fender behind the wheel well. You have to get it off to unbolt the stud and remove the sway bar. The 10mm screw inside the wheel well is easy. The one inside the fender requires fiddling around blind with a 10mm flat wrench to get it backed out. Once off (it's not going back on), put a glob of silicone over that bolt hole to prevent rattles and only bolt the bracket down to the other 2 accessible holes.
2. Unbolt the tops of the shock units from under the hood.
On the passenger side, there is enough clearance around the A/C pipes, but you need to be careful not to damage them. On the driver's side, you must first remove the master cylinder by unbolting two 15mm nuts and carefully easing the cylinder out of the way. You don't need to open the cylinder, so no brake bleeding will be necessary. This side has the Torx head bolts. You may find it easier to remove the two small plastic clips that hold the brake-lines apart from each other.
3. Unbolt the lower end of the shock units from the lower control arm.
At this point, you have a choice. The manual says to remove the lower arm from the lower ball joint. But removing the upper arm from the upper ball joint is easier. To do that, remove the cotter pin and back off the castle nut several turns. Don't take it off completely or when you separate the ball joint, the knuckle will fall off and stress the brake hose before you can catch it. Take your rubber mallet and whack the end of the ball stud several times until the joint separates and bottoms against the castle nut again. Then you can unscrew the nut all the way and separate the upper arm from the knuckle. This sounds more complex and difficult than it is in practice. Make sure to support the lower control arm once you remove remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint (so that it doesn't fall down all the way and stress the brake line). Using a regular hammer may work better so as to "shock" the balljoint. Using a pickle fork (< $15 tool) makes this much easier - you can jack up the lower control arm (so as to raise the upper control as well) and then jam the pickle-fork between the ball joint and the steering knuckle. If the ball joint pops, cool. If not, lower the jack and the spring will push the lower control arm back, which will pull the upper control arm down, which will have the effect of popping the ball joint (since the pickle fork is in the way).
4. Remove the shock unit and upper control arm.
You don't actually need to remove the upper control arm, but it should come out anyway to make reassembly easier. The unit should slide right out with a bit of coaxing as it weighs 15 - 20 pounds. You should now be holding a unit of the shock body, two spring perches, and the spring. Whether you are changing the shock or spring, or both, you need to get them apart.
5. Decompress the spring
The spring is under a lot of compression and unbolting the top without first installing spring compressors will cause injury to yourself! Attach the compressors and crank them down until the spring is loose. You are now almost ready to unbolt the top retaining nut. Before you do, though, take note of the orientation of the upper shock mount to the lower shock mount. You'll need to have things lined up when you bolt it back together. There is a little rubber piece on the top mount which aligns nicely with the front lower mount hole. Unbolt the top and slide everything off. Now you have the spring compressed with the shock dust cover rattling inside it because it can't fit past the jaws of the compressors. So uncompress the spring and remove the compressors and the dust cover. When selecting which coils on the spring to locate the spring compressor on, make sure you leave some room for the spring compressor to expand as the spring decompresses (as the spring will elongate). Make sure to leave at least 2 inches of threads between the end of the threaded shaft of the spring compressor its finger/jaw.
6. Reassembly
Assemble the new pieces in the reverse of order. Be careful when you attach the compressors to the new spring that they are located so you can fit the spring over the shock and get everything bolted back in place (including the dust cover). Be sure to line up the upper and lower shock mounts. Compress the spring, then bolt the unit back together. Uncompress the spring, and remove the compressors.
7. Reinstallation
You should now have a shock assembly in your hand ready for re-installation. You should cover the top nut and the threaded portion of the shock rod with some kind of water proof grease. Water tends to sit in and rust the nut and shock rod. This will make future removals easier. At this point, it helps to have an assistant to help orient the unit as you slide it back up into place. You can bolt the top mount into place then the lower mount, but it might be easier to get the bolts in the lower mount first since with the control arm all the way extended the bolt holes won't all line up right. Torque them down and install the ball joint stud, castle nut, and cotter pin. Refit the master cylinder (if on the driver's side). Repeat the process on the other side.
8. Sway bar reinstallation
Bolt on the sway bar and fit the end-links. You might not be able tighten the end-links completely with the car on stands, so put the wheels back on and drop the car and then finish tightening the bar end-links. You may also want to use the jack to jack up one side of the car to start the nut on one end-link, then jack up the other side of the car to start the nut on the other end-link.
Rear:
1. Rear spring removal Put the back of the car up on stands and remove the wheels. Unbolt the end-links and sway bar. If you are not changing the bar, you may not need to do this. Unbolt the large nut from the lower shock mount (on a 97 car, the nut will require a 21mm socket). Use a jack to gently take the axle weight off of the shock and pull the shock free of the mount. Gently lower the jack and drop the axle until you can pull the spring out from the seat. Take note of the orientation of the spring (which directions the ends of the springs are pointing). If you put the rear springs in at a different angle, you may experience a clunk when going over bumps. Be careful of the brake hoses.
2. Rear spring installation Put the new spring in the seat and raise the axle up again. Stick the shock back in the mount and bolt it down. Repeat the process on the other side. If you are changing the bar, then bolt on the new bar. Put the wheels back on and drop the car.
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