Im speaking of the non DD design. Is there really that much of a diffrence between brands?? I am planing on gettin the tubular BMR's because they are the cheepest i can find, plus ive heard good things about them. I would get the boxed, but i plan on lowering the car with the SLP stage one pacakge in a year or so.
Also, are there any online stores you guys would suggest.?

Thanks.

 

Im not sure how different they are between brands. I got G2's, They are powder coated so you need to sand the ends a bit to weld them. I would recommend weld-ins and not the bolt-ons. But I would say that this is one part that any brand is as good as any other (assuming that they fit well of course).

 

I love the tubular BMRs, no complaints here.

 

only 2 people have opinions. I most likely go with the tubular BMR's cause they are the cheapest i have found. Plus i can get them in black. Just would like everyones input.

 

I don't think that the DD style SFC's are any more effective than the Tubular style, at least oot on a street car.
I personally like the Global West SFC's, they fit really well, and tuck up under the car really tight.
One thing - stay away from bolt-in SFC's, over time they elongate their bolt holes. Its weld-in or nothing

 

I have not had a chance to drive my car much since installing the BMR tubulars, but never the less I have been very impressed thus far.

 

YES YES YES there is a difference.

A book I have read says the SFC's are the first thing you should do when modifying an F Body. The chassis flex weakens the car signifcantly even after 30k miles. So do them now.

I got the BMR weld in tubualr SFC's and I am very happy. I have done other suspension mods since, but with the SFC's in only, it felt like you had less body roll - becuase the body wasn't flexing. It also ties in the front to back sub frames and you can feel the car ripple over bumps instead of bending and flexing over them.

Hope thats of use.

 

i like my BMR rectangular SFC's. They make perfect jack points, and make putting the car on a lift sooo much easier, since the car can rest on the SFC's now. They barely show, about 3/4" down.

 

Did you ever think that GM could have done it right at the factory for less than $30?? If they had just designed the chassis with a frame rail connecting the subframes, probably add less than $30 in material on a $30,000 car.

what idiots!!! If they can ever get their heads out of their asses they better get it right on the 5th gen!! This kind of thinking to save small amounts of money is disgraceful.

 

True for the most part, but its here and there that those little things end up turning the car into a $50,000 FBod.

 

There is no such thing as making the chassis too stiff, while it's easy to make the suspension too stiff. For less than $240 you can buy KBDD's that can be connected to the sub frames, trans tunnel, rear LCA and pinch welds under the doors. Then the leaverage arm between attachment points is so short that there is more rigidity than much thicker designs.

 

I would say BMR as well. Although I would go with the boxed simply because I never plan on lowering. My car is low enough as it is, and when I throw on some LT Headers... look out. This city has lots of high ramps... and a lowered car really can't go alot of places. Mine just barely makes the grade with stock height.

 

I have the Kenny Brown DD subframes . They add weight to the car and stiffen the ride a bit as well as add some road noise which is why GM never braced the chassis that much . Remember the reason the ride is a bit stiffer is due to decreaseing the soft edge given by chassis flex. The trade off for me is well in favor of the subframes but most people don't drive their car as hard as I do. Also I am sure the sub frames will make my car last longer which is not necessarily something GM wants it to do.

 

BMR, tube if lowered and boxed if stock ride height. My 97 is a vert, it needs all the help it can get to stiffen the chassis.

 

also in (gasp) accidents

i got rear-ended by a dumb tail-gating bitch, she hit the left rear at an angle trying to swerve to avoid. slammed my 94 Z28 and lifted the rear wheels off the ground and pitched it over to the 2 o'clock position (from 12).

well i got out and raged on her and traumatized her for life i think, but the main point is, even with that impact, and $2400 repair estimate, both the body shop and my own suspension shop said the frame was still straight.

i think the weld-in subframe connectors helped that.