Lab

My car is a daily driver. I dont necessarily want to be competitive in a class (dont have the money/skill/knowledge to do so).

Mostly I want to run with the local Porsche club at Sebring on the road course for fun. To enjoy the car in a way I can not do so on the street (well, legally anyways).

The suspension kit seems to be ok, stiffer but not too stiff. The motor has more get up and go. The main areas that I think I lack to be reliable on a road course are listed below.'

Brakes: Still have stock LT1 "tiny" brakes. Maybe go to LS1 front rotors or brakets to use C5 brakes/rotors up front

LCA brackets: The LCA arm are angled up, heard this is not good for planting the rear end (car is lowered).

Better fluides: Higher temp brake fluid, maybe some water wetter in the coolant.

Tires: Probably run regular tires. Not as fast, but hopefully more forgiving since the only experience I have is a few autocrosses in the Vette.

Any other areas I need to address. See sig below. To restate, I am just looking to go have some fun and dont want to do something like fade my breakes on the first lap and have to baby it from there on.

Thanks

Lance

The suspension consists of the following: KBDD supframes, STB, Bilstien shocks, Hyperco springs, poly-rubber adj LCA, adj panhard bar with hiem joints, poly bushings for the rollbars (still using stock Z28 rollbars), and 1LE trans mount.

auto-Xer

Sticking w/ the stock tires is not a bad idea. They will give plenty of warning as they approach their limits, where the R compounds tend to hold.. hold.. hold. Break! I believe Sebring is a pretty bumpy course too. Here in DC you need to own and drive a Porsche to be in their club. Even the BMW club will let outsiders in. Brakes are going to be your biggest problem I'd imagine. What pads do you have on? I run Hawk HP+. They are very streetable (squeek a little bit) and work fairly well for a track day as well. Or, if your going to do this a few times, get some race pads for your front. They will coat your rotors and will give you much better stopping. They coat the rotors w/ carbon I believe, and when you switch back to stock pads they will feel a little funny until it wears off. Just make sure you brake in the new pads before running them. Most need to heat up then cool off before their good to go. Also your right about the brake fluid. Get the best stuff you can get your hands on. The difference in price between cheap and the best is just a few $$$.

--Kevin

KeithO

If you do not have a power steering cooler, you will likely have minor problems. Keep an eye on your PS reservior after each run.

All_Z_Way

For what you are doing a whole lot isn't needed.

Brakes are the only real problem and with good fluids and good pads your brakes can do a decent job.

Definitely change your brake fluid to a higher dry boiling point fluid and use a more aggressive pad.

I have pulleys on my car and I do still boil my powersteering fluid from time to time, but it isn't too bad. I also change it before every event.


Go out and have fun.

BTW.. here is chart of many different brake fluids and their rated boiling points.
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/k/...cars/tech.html

apex

Your brakes will be an issue. I would change the fluid(I've had great like with the Ford stuff)and good pads. Don't bother with any more suspension/engine mods, spend your money on seat time. Will you be getting any instruction? A 5 point harness will keep you planted in the seat, and is probably mandatory anyway. I've yet to experience any power steering problems,maybe I'm just lucky! When you are ready to upgrade to the C5 brakes send me a messaage, I can set you up real cheap. Water wetter is good stuff, but unless you're running hot I wouldn't use it because it has no antifreeze protection.

BobC

I have a set of PF 93 pads with about 1/2 pad left. They are the best you can buy. They were $190 new and I'll sell for $65 + shipping. They cost out the wazoo, but I never had them fade. They will murder rotors to the melting point if pushed to the limit, but at least I stayed on track with them.

Get some PF Z rated padss for the rear. Thyey work well with good pads up front and good tires.

If you want cheaper Front street/race pads, I have a couple sets of those, too. They will fade if pushed. I know this from experience.

I agree with the good fluid comment. I run Motul 600 with no trouble. Apex above races W2W too, and Ford fluid is cheaper if you can find it.

Put on huge brake cooling ducts or you are toast in X laps if braking a lot.

If you use good street tires they will get ruined. If you have worn ones you don't care about, its not an issue. I have a set of Hoosier 275/45/16 road race tires mounted/balanced on GM 5 star rims, used, for sale cheap.

BobC
95 Formula W2W, very stock
bcurrey99@yahoo.com

Lady in Nomex

Hi there! I teach high perf. driving schools at Thunderhill out here in Northern CA and race in the Northern CA based NASA Camaro-Mustang Challenge.

Bascially I advise people to do as little to the car as necessary for the first time out. This is so you can develop a good understanding of the car and what it can do in the stock form. I would put in better brake fluid, like the Motul 600, and maybe change to some better brake pads. At minimum do brake fluid and Redline power steering fluid. If you get going fast you will cook the Redline PS fluid without a cooler, a cooler is a cheap easy thing to do and will eliminate a worry.

Just get some rest, stay hydrated, and listen to you instructor. You will have a blast! Let us know how you like it!

nape

I've heard of some guys that are running Dexron ATF in their PS systems because the ATF has a higher boiling point then the PS fluid. They haven't had any leaks or adverse effects either.

Anyone care to confirm this?

Ken S

hey, I was just reading on corner-carvers and some guy on there lost his brakes on the track because his stainless steel lines were worn thru..


What happened was his front line was ziptied to his front shock and rubbing up against it... After enough rubbing, it wore thru the SS braiding and quickly tore the line open..


They talk about using two or three zipties to ward off rubbing.. tubing to cover the lines, spiral wrap to keep the lnes away from things.....


something to check if you have SS lines..