Well....Next week I take my '94 Camaro to a two day driving school at Mid-Ohio, where the CART cars run. I am somewhat paranoid about the car performing OK...Any suggestions on what I should do before the event:

This weekend I am going to:
- Replace front Pads, they are not that worn, but figured I would start with a fresh set. I replaced the rear ones with better rotors and pads late last year.

- Change Rear Diff Fluid, has never been done.

- Replace Brake fluid with DOT4

- Chassis Lube and greasing guide pins on the brakes.

- Coolant Flush...Not sure if I should bother with this....I tested coolant and it is fine, Car only has 25,000 miles on it. What do you think?

- I have about 1000 miles on the car since the last oil change (which was late last year) should I change it before the event? and after the event?

- Any other ideas of things that I should do?

Thanks guys!



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94 Z28 LT1 A4
BLACK w/ FLAME RED INT
20k Orig. Miles
SLP CAI
2OTL Cat Back
Hypertech 160 TSTAT
BMR STB
http://community.webshots.com/album/36772017dOzRqG

 

If this is your first time at the track, just go and have a blast. You will soon be addicted.

All of the things you have listed are good, although I wouldn't change to a DOT4 fluid. There are some very good Dot3 fluids.
Check out this link:
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/li...cars/tech.html

I personally use the FORD HD and have had good suceess with it. Others I run with use, Motul 5.1. FORD HD is cheap...$3+ a bottle.

The coolant flush is probably not necessary, but won't hurt if you have the time.

Check your rear pads also, they wear more than you think under hard braking.

Also, this list might help you prepare:
http://www.opentracking.com/Track%20...acking-com.pdf

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96 Z28 M6-Lots of bolt ons!

Smitty's Speed Shop
My 1996 Z-28

Road Racing Pics

Most of all... Have fun.

[This message has been edited by All_Z_Way (edited June 13, 2002).]

 

What is the disadvantage with going to DOT4, does it wear out stock brake components faster, or is it just more expensive?

Thanks for your help....



------------------
94 Z28 LT1 A4
BLACK w/ FLAME RED INT
20k Orig. Miles
SLP CAI
2OTL Cat Back
Hypertech 160 TSTAT
BMR STB
http://community.webshots.com/album/36772017dOzRqG

 

I don't think it is harsh on your system or anything, just that it is not recommended that you mix DOT fluids and thus requires a major flushing of the system before you use it.

IMHO, there are good enough DOT3 fluids that a DOT4 is not required for the occassional track day and daily driving.

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96 Z28 M6-Lots of bolt ons!

Smitty's Speed Shop
My 1996 Z-28

Road Racing Pics

 

Fresh brake hoses are a must if they haven't been changed yet.

Have fun!!

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93 Formula Solid Roof, White, 6 speed (slp y-pipe,Edelbrock Cat Back, slp shifter)

1990 Olds 88 Royale (aka Fat Tony) 3.8, Grateful Dead Sticker, and rides like a couch. 166,000 and still going strong, Thrush muffler- Vroom!

There is no dark side of the moon really, matter of fact its all dark...

 

$8 to $15 of good brake fluid vs risking no brakes, I'll change the fluid completely, thanks, and I'll put in something good over 500 degrees...

 

Check your tire pressure before you get there and right after you get off the track. It can get too high pretty fast when the track is hot. Good Luck and have fun. ( You will I guarantee it)

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95 Z28, SLP Y pipe, Dynomax intermediate 3" pipe, Flowmaster muffler, SFC, STB, KYB shocks, Moroso CAI, 1LE front anti roll bar, Hurst shifter, TBB, LT4 KM, LG Motorsports pedals

[This message has been edited by warner (edited June 14, 2002).]

 

BOBC... Check out the numbers on FordHD, they are just as high as most expensive fluids.

550 dry boiling point and since I change it before every track day the wet boiling point is of no interest to me.

Even the $99 per liter Castrol only has a 590 boiling point.

IMO... If you are boiling your brakes at 550 then you most likely will at 590 also.

 

DOT 4 is a synthetic, I believe. It has more compressibility and will give a softer feedback on the pedal.

It's made for vehicles that sit for exptended periods of time, like RVs. It's not as hydroscopic.

Look for Motul 5.1 in a motorcycle shop. I pay $8 1/2 litre.

If you are on street tires, your target pressures on the front would be ~38-40 hot. You should probably start at 32-34. The rears will depend on wheel spin or side bite. maybe 32-34 hot? It's been a while since I've run on street tires.

Don't worry about your car's performance. Just go have fun.

I suggest you short shift it to keep RPMs low, unless you've changed your power steering fluid to something like Redline and have a cooler. You will toast a PS pump easily with RPMS at 5K for a period of time.... Regardless, if it's anywhere near the full mark, it will puke some out. I run mine right at the ADD mark.