I want to lower my car. What I need to know is, do I need to get some lower control arm relocation brackets or any any other hardware before I put the springs in? Also, what type of spring is best for daily driving? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

I believe they are strongly recommended but not mandatory. If you dont use them It can cause premature waer of your rear end.

Anybody that can confirm would be great Im just learning the camaro and I had this same question

 

my LCA's were pointing UP on the axle at rest... I'd hate to see how bad it'd be if I was lowered. I'd reccomend LCA relocation brackets on ANY 4th gen.

As for lowering:
- LCA relocation brackets
- adjustable PHR
- shocks to match the increased spring rates... stock DeCarbons arn't even adequate for stock spring rates. With the stock DeCarbons, expect a bouncy ride.


1) How much drop are you looking for?
2) for both F and R? or are you looking to increase rake for high speed stabilty?
3) Do you have any ground effects on the car already?
4) Does your driveway slant or is it "just close enough" at stock heights?
If so, you may need to modify your driveway first.

 

Wow, the guy wants springs, now he's got to rip out his driveway!

 

Thanks for all your responses. I don't want an extreme drop. I'm debating between the Eibach Pro Kit or the springs from Dynamic Motorsports . I also don't have any ground effects, so they're are no worries there. What type of lca relocation brackets and springs does everyone recommend? As far as the driveway goes, (it's kinda steep, but I know I can clear it) I'm sure my neighbor won't mind if I cut across his yard to get into my driveway.

 

What type of shock do you guys recommend with a lowered car? I just want to see what the general audience recommends. Thanks.

 

fwiw, I run stock de carbons w/ my Hotchkis springs (1" drop) and have had no "bouncy" ride, and that is w/o lca brackets ...had'em, just didn't like the feel w/ them for my typical street driving.

 

OK My .2$
I have the pro kit on my SS with stock shocks and gfx. It is a bumpy ride, I won't say it's not, but it's not too bad imo. I feel it really depends on where you live and what you'll put up with. The phb is a must or you will most likely "dog track" which is not good The LCAs are needed, but not a must and finally, an alignment is needed.

 

FWIW, Hotchkis springs start @ 285# and stock springs are 292# straight.

 

Forgive me for being a post-*****, I'm just trying to find out some more info.

Excuse my ignorance, but what does PHB stand for and what do the numbers 285 & 292 signify? (could it be the spring rate?)

Also, in laymans terms what does "dog track" mean?

Any insight will be greatly appreciated

 

I put the DMS springs on my SS. I love them. I wish I would have put Bilstein shocks on at the same time though. The front dropped 2" and the back dropped just a hair over an inch. The stance is super sweet looking,perfect. And I can still go over speed bumps. The back seems to want to jump up too much after hitting a bump at speed. Other than that I'm very happy. I also slapped on a Suspension Technologies 35 mm solid front sway bar. No more body roll in the corners now. I also got the DMS adjustable Panhard Bar (PHB) with rod ends instead of bushings. I skipped the relocation brackets but will probably add those one day when I tear it apart to change the shocks.

 

Well, I think they took care of everything but dog track. It can happen to any car if you bend/break the suspension, but it happens mostly when you lower cars. It where the geometry of the suspension is changed and it causes the back end of the car to travel at an angle to the front end during use. It's not a for sure thing that will happen, but if it does, you won't like it.

 

Relocation brackets are NOT required. Lower control arms are not required.

FWIW (and trust me these cars handle GREAT) there are plenty of ESP autoxers that are still using stock rear control arms and stock bushings in those arms. Also these cars do not use relocation brackets.

Hell on my car I have yet to replace the torque arm. With 315's and a T2R and a slightly lower rear roll center I am putting power down pretty damn well.

Stock rear control arms,stock torque arm, no relocation brackets. Handles great. I do recommend a pan hard rod (PHR or PHB). And hell you may as well go with a rod end version. IMO of course.

 

PHB = Panhard Bar, its in the rear suspension.

285/292 is spring rate per inch, the Hotchkis are 285-525 I believe, dual rate, they claim a 1" drop but I have heard that it is more.

Relocation brackets aren't required but I would say handling is definately compromised without proper rear LCA geometry, I experienced that myself with a wagging tail after a little bit of a fast turn onto an onramp. These are big cars and you need all the help you can get to maintain some kind of handling neutrality.

 

Tail wagging on the on ramp was somethings else.

The rear control arm geometry when lowered will cause a roll Understeer. If you install relocation brackets and install the arms in the lowest hole you will have roll Oversteer.

You lose strait line traction because of reduced anti-squat and cause a roll understeer condition that can be tuned out of the car/and or "driven out"