Ultra_Dog

I've got a 96 Z28/SS with the Bilstein LevII suspension. I've also made major engine changes (ATI P1SC) and putting down over 400 to the wheels.

The car handles good, needs new tires at least and some new brakes.

The SLP package came with matched eibachs to the bilsteins and its got other bushings, and is all around a lot tighter than a regular Z28. But with the supercharger its about 100# heavier in the nose. The wheels are Zr1 275-40/ZR-17. A buddy of mine has an extra set of 18/19 C6 wheels I may be able to run with.

Overall, it can break the tail out pretty easy, and the nose washes out more. I have a strut brace up front too.

I presume with my engine mods, my class make it uncompetitive. But it could still be fun, nonethless.

Malice 1

yeah, you'd be in the class with full on race cars. Unless you went with STX or something like that.

I'm kind of a newb, but I think a bigger rear swaybar might offset the extra front end weight. On the other hand, it would brobably make the tail even easier to kick out.

slomarao

never hurts to try. Get a strano hollow 35mm front bar, that will help a lot. You also need to think if this is something you want to continue to do when you do brakes.
If you go with stock brakes again they will be done for after a few times to the track. They just cant take the heat like something designed for it can. Im in the same boat you are and wanted the extra braking anyways.
I got bremo blank rotors and hawk pads. Toped it off with some good brake fluid and called it a day. It wouldnt perform of last like some baer's or a c5/6 setup but it will handle what im throwing at it. Also there are many good pads out there, dont get the hawk's(dust).

cdb95z28

It`ll probably hurt more if you just add a bigger front w/o adding a bigger rear bar. A bigger front bar will only lessen the amount of front roll. In a steady state turn it will also make the front want to "wash out" as you call it, AKA understeer, push. One benefit, it may also make the car more responsive.

Yes, the bigger rear bar helps to create more oversteer.

That extra front weight is gonna kill ya no matter what on an autoX. Try some open track road racing. You`ll really be able to use all that power and the extra weight won`t be a detriment as much.

Brakes: Go to FRRAX.com and get some Trackbrackets. You`ll be able to add some front C5 vette rotors and calipers. This is the least expensive and best bang for the buck brake upgrade around for 4th gen f-bods.

Techpriest

It really depends on what you want to do. Show up a few times a year and have some fun? Leave the car alone and go have fun.

Want to be competitive? The driver will be the biggest upgrade. Check the results at your local club and I am sure you will see some economy cars that beat sports cars. Until you have a year or two under your belt, and if possible a driving school, the problem won't be the car. I would not advise anyone spend much on their car until they have done it a few times and are sure they want to do it often enough to justify the expense.

Next upgrade is tires. Either street or racing tires, nothing else will make as much of a difference as your tires. Again, I would suggest you try it a few times to see how often you want to do it before buying tires. I am pretty happy with my Falken Ziex 912s. Good grip, but hard enough to last on the highway and less than $100 each.

I do encourage you to give it a try. I have a blast. Don't get discouraged if you do not do well your first time. You will find that your HP will be as much curse as blessing in a tight twisty course. As you do it more you will get better at it. What I was told was to drive it like I had an egg under the gas pedal. Press it, don't mash it. What funs that though?

ws6transam

For track days at the local road course, this advice is true. For autocross, this isn't true. Stock brakes will be fine for autocross, though you might want a more aggressive pad that doesn't require a lot of heat. Autocross is performed in parking lots at speeds typically under 50 MPH, and the runs last sixty seconds or less. There simply isn't enough time to get the brakes hot.

Go try it and have fun. Don't change anything until you have some actual track experience.

Techpriest is right about the horsepower, too. I find myself tickling the throttle in second gear when on the autocross course. I can blow off the tires even the straightaways so it takes a light foot to keep it out of the cones.

Z28SORR

First you need to deside if your going to do this for fun, or if your going to compete. If your going to compete, you need to get the rule book and deside what class your going to run in, BEFORE you start throwing parts at the car.

Privateer454

My local chapter classed me into SM2, a class normally for modified, 2 seat, small sprts cars (i.e. modded Miatas, Rx-7's, etc). There is a provsion for cars like mine (80 Camaro, 454 w/Procharger, etc) to run against these smaller cars with my larger size and weight handicapping my power advantage. Works more in my favor on more open courses but obviously against me on tight ones.

As was stated earlier, stock brakes in good condition with decent pads are fine for a day of SoloII AutoX.