I already tried a search with no success....

I dont AutoX (although I do make the occasional high speed stop...) but I figured you guys here would have the most brake knowledge...

I recently replaced my pads a couple months ago, and last week I changed out the brake fluid to synthetic and bled the system. The Haynes manual I was following says something about a scan tool for the ABS if you have traction conrtol??? Whatever, I dont have TC so I didnt worry about it. Book said to bleed ABS Modulator, then all calipers in right order, then ABS Modulator again, so I did...

Now the brakes feel slightly better, but I can still push the pedal all the way to the floor too easy. Should I be looking into usint this ABS scan tool (whatever it is) when I bleed my brakes?

BTW, the fluid is full and hasnt dropped. I checked the lines and I'm pretty sure I dont have any leaks. The car only has 32000 miles on it, so I dont think my Master Cylinder is going.....

Any help on improving this soft pedal would be great!!!

 

There are two issues that should be addressed about changing the pads. You MUST open the bleeder valves when you compress the piston in your caliper as you change your pads. Other wise you will back flush fluid through your ABS which could damage the unit. Also, there are contaminates that are in the old fluid that must not touch the master cylinder rubber pistons/o-rings.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means that it is designed to absorb water. Brake lines, as they get hot, form condensation internally which has a by-product of water. This water is now in the lines, but fresh brake fluid will absorb that water. Unfortunately, water has a boiling point and when your brake lines boil from heat and/or water in the lines... bubbles form which is air. All air must be bled from the system.

When the fluid in the lines are compressed (by compressing the caliper piston) fluid is back-flushed through the ABS into the master cylinder. In the brake line, due to water, you will find rust. This rust forms from the water in the lines plus the fact that the lines are double walled stainless steel... which steel is a ferrous metal so it has iron. The by-product of H2O and Iron is Iron Oxide or... rust. By not opening the bleeder valves, rust (sharp and jagged) will get stuck on the walls in the master cylinder piston seals which will create a "spongy" feel over time. Then the Master Cylinder must be replaced... old days used to brake hone and put in new seals.

ALWAYS open the bleeder valves when compressing the caliper piston!

#2 - The other possibility is air in the lines. While bleeding, the fluid may have gone low in the master cylinder reservoir and sucked air into the lines. Very possible. You may need to re-bleed the lines to get the air out. If you disconnect the ABS fuse, you can start the car and pump the brakes. The vacuum booster will create more pressure to push out the air bubbles...again, do not let the cylinder reservoir go below 1/3... better at 1/2 before filling to the top.

Once done, engine off, ABS fuse in, pump the brakes a few times until the pedal gets hard. Then, you can start the car... ABS should be fine, bubbles should be out of the lines.

Good luck... any more questions, I'm usually on the LT1 Section.