View Poll Results: Best 3-4 pt STB?
KB 3pt



3
75.00%
G2 4pt



1
25.00%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
Best 3-4pt STB?
I currently have a 2pt BMR CM STB, but want to upgrade to a 3 or 4pt design since I'm on a quest to eliminate, or at least minimize, all flex in my wet-noodle ragtop.
What are the best choices?
I'm considering:
http://www.kennybrown.com/fbodystrut.html
and the 4pt on this page:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...s&car=lt1-fbod
The KB one "appears" to be of good design given that it's a triangle. Anyone have one?
Opinions? Any others I should be looking at?
What are the best choices?
I'm considering:
http://www.kennybrown.com/fbodystrut.html
and the 4pt on this page:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...s&car=lt1-fbod
The KB one "appears" to be of good design given that it's a triangle. Anyone have one?
Opinions? Any others I should be looking at?
To me, it looks like the KB has a very small mounting plate for the cowling, which isnt the strongest. LGs has 2 bolts going though it where it looks like KBs has one (cant tell from the small pic). I would vote on the larger surface area to distribute the pressure over.
RobK,
Of all the shock tower braces the KB's have an advantage that is actually significant. You'll notice that it's asymmetrical. The reason has to do with how the unit functions. Side flex is not a big issue on 4th gen cars with shock towers. 3rd gens have struts which do flex side to side.4ths flex front to back. so 2pts. on a 4th gen often found disappointing. The strongest part of the cowl is an overlapping of factory sheet metal off center, pass. side. Since airbags have to leaverage against the windshield, factory increased cowl streghnth. So KB uses this point to mount the STB laterally, making it even stronger front to back. Others mount flush to the firewall, not as strong or as advantaged leaverage. LG has some fitment issues which has led to cracked windshields. Not the STB but improper installation, fit seems close and people have tried to force it in with cracking the result. Some cars require the spring perch be loosened to fit it. Some cars it just fits. GM build quality strikes again.
Of all the shock tower braces the KB's have an advantage that is actually significant. You'll notice that it's asymmetrical. The reason has to do with how the unit functions. Side flex is not a big issue on 4th gen cars with shock towers. 3rd gens have struts which do flex side to side.4ths flex front to back. so 2pts. on a 4th gen often found disappointing. The strongest part of the cowl is an overlapping of factory sheet metal off center, pass. side. Since airbags have to leaverage against the windshield, factory increased cowl streghnth. So KB uses this point to mount the STB laterally, making it even stronger front to back. Others mount flush to the firewall, not as strong or as advantaged leaverage. LG has some fitment issues which has led to cracked windshields. Not the STB but improper installation, fit seems close and people have tried to force it in with cracking the result. Some cars require the spring perch be loosened to fit it. Some cars it just fits. GM build quality strikes again.
I got this one
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchtype%3Decat
But I think this one would have been better.
http://www.proformance-motorsports.c...omoly-LS1.html
Good Luck. Later>>>>>
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchtype%3Decat
But I think this one would have been better.
http://www.proformance-motorsports.c...omoly-LS1.html
Good Luck. Later>>>>>
A rigid chassis is a good idea. A cage on any car driven without a helmet is not. Even padded, roll bars can be fatal in low speed impacts because they are effectively immovable objects with a less than 2 inch surface area. Don't take my word for the consequences of this impacting the skull, just ask any trauma surgeon. Back seat or front, just a pot hole can be disastrous. In an f body for the street , the only safe set up is delete the back seat, custom fit the hoop far enough into the back to make it as distant from the front seats as possible, and run the front arms of a 6 point just barely off the floor. A full frame works better than the forward arms. It's a PITA to fabricate and doesn't make a big difference in handling but does make a safe, strong and rigid car. If your interested I can email you pictures, in progress w/ stripped interior and finished.
SDA,
I would be very interested in receiving pictures--thanks.
email: rkyanko@***.net (10MB limit on email) --fill'r up!
-Rob
I would be very interested in receiving pictures--thanks.
email: rkyanko@***.net (10MB limit on email) --fill'r up!
-Rob
You can get one setup with a removable rear bar, just like the removable door bars.
IOPortRacing has them
http://www.ioportracing.com/rollbar.htm
IOPortRacing has them
http://www.ioportracing.com/rollbar.htm
I also have installed the 2pt Hotchkiss STB and noticed an improvement, it sure would be good knowledge if there was someone out there who had gone from the 2pt to a 3 or 4 point STB and what the differences in structural integrity was.
I'm in the process of getting a custom 6 point roll bar installed ... so far, the results are good, almost as strong as a T-top car ... downside ... the welder did not follow instuctions on how to make the back bars ... upside ... I stopped payment on the cheque ... gonna have to get those rear bars removed and what I wanted put in ... sigh
LWM
I'm in the process of getting a custom 6 point roll bar installed ... so far, the results are good, almost as strong as a T-top car ... downside ... the welder did not follow instuctions on how to make the back bars ... upside ... I stopped payment on the cheque ... gonna have to get those rear bars removed and what I wanted put in ... sigh
LWM
I welded extensions to the left and right of the factory rear mounting plate on my KB. I also welded some 1/8" material below the plastic cowl pannel to strenghen it. I know have three bolts at the rear mount instead of the recommended one.
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