A few random tidbits in no particular order:

- The backing plate on LS1 rear brakes is much larger than the LT1 part (due to the drum style parking brake). As such you might not have to remove the axles on an LT1.

- Don't be a wuss, pulling the axles is easy. Besides its a good excuse to change the diff fluid

- The stock rear wheel studs on LS1's are about 1/8" longer than LT1 rear studs. Presumably because the hats on LS1 rear rotors are a bit thicker than LT1 rotors.

 

Yes.

I also switch to new lugnuts every year or so.

Good stuff ...

 

...so mitch I can use the stock length arp studs with a spacer, only about 1/4" at mos if I even use one, since the studs are threaded 3/8" further? Also why do you replace your lugnuts every year or so?

 

You can use the stock length ARP studs with a spacer because they are threaded all the way to the end OR use the front GM studs in thr rear (are you talking both front and rear or just the rear?) because they are 1/4" longer. Be careful about using studs that are too long because you'll bottom the lug out before it makes good contact with the wheel. Longer studs (if you're not using spacers) will require a deeper lug.

I use to strip my rear studs when I started using my 17x11 wheels with my 1/4" spacer. Once I installed the longer studs the problem went away.

If you frequently swap wheels, it's a good idea to replace the lugs every so often because the threads might have a tendancy to stretch.

 

That's how I did it.

Yes Mike. With a 1/4" spacer, there was about 1/2 the lugnut worth of thread engagement. With the stud threaded all the way to the end, you should get full thread engagement of the lugnut.

I change lugs every year or so because of the muner of times I take off and replace tire/wheels.

 

I have been told (Neal B) that the procedure for replacing the rear studs depends on whether or not the car has ASR/TCS. What I was told is that ASR/TCS cars can replace the rear studs through an access hole in the axle, but that the cars without must pull the axles to replace them. That is not a big deal either.

Basically put the car on stands, and remove the wheels/tires and rear brake calipers/rotors (leave the lines attached). The put a pan under the rear axle, and remove all 10 bolts. Gently pry the cover off. Be careful as fluid will dump. Then remove the lone bolt in the center of the carrier, and slide both axles inwards. Remove both C-clips from the inside of the carrier. Pull both axles and replace the studs. Reverse for reassembly. If you have done a lot of autox/track events, it might be cheap insurance to replace the C-clips while you are in there.

 

On my '94 w/ no trac control, I installed the longer studs without pulling the axles.
I used a die grinder to cut a groove into the caliper bracket deep enough to allow installation of the studs.
You just rotate the axle up to the spot and slide in the new stud.

 

I just realized....I spent $450 to be able to change wheel studs. Actually, I spent $450 for TCS and $50 for the module from SLP to automatically turn it off. I guess it is the most expensive way to not have TCS....

I've been considering ARP studs and I need to adjust my E-brake. If I take it apart one day soon, I'll post what I find (if it looks like studs can be changed on a TCS car, mine is a 2002).

 

Good work.
This is the best idea I've run across to allow the insertion of unmodified long studs. Once done its permanent and allows quick replacement at the track if needed.


Steve

 

As long as it is done in such a way that it avoids stress risers that could cause the caliper bracket to crack due to vibration and load. I'm not sure I like the thoughts of cutting notches in caliper brackets, but it may not be so bad (I've have to see one I guess).

Just a thought.

 

As far as I know, there's only one ARP part number for our cars, but apparently several different studs have been used by GM.

On my 2001, the stock studs were identical front and rear once I removed them. There was slightly more useable thread at one end or the other, but that was due to hub/brake differences, not the studs. The ARP's were about 1/2" longer than stock.

On TCS/ASR cars, the wheelspeed sensor protrudes through the backing plate and is held in place by one bolt. The hole for the sensor lines up with the stud circle.

HOWEVER, the toothed wheel on the axle that drives the sensor is a little too big and gets in the way of the heads. I carefully drove the studs partway out, sliced off the heads with a dremel, and then drove them the rest of the way out through the sensor hole.

To install the new studs, I had to grind a flat on the side of each head to clear the toothed wheel. I was careful not to overheat them, and sealed the bare spot with touch up paint before installing them. There is still plenty of meat left on the heads.

Removing the axles will not avoid this problem, since the toothed wheel is pressed onto the axle itself, right behind the flange.

 

I know on my car (a '94) the front studs are exactly 1/4" longer than the rear. Could be a difference in the brakes (LS1 brakes vs LT1) that made them go to same length studs. I stumbled across it by accident, I asked for new rear studs and the parts guy gave me the front ones instead. It wasn't until I went to put them in that I found they were longer. Since I use a 1/4" spacer it worked out perfect.