Autocross and Road Racing Technique There is more to life than a straight line

4th Gen. brakes improvment?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 2, 2003 | 01:13 PM
  #16  
quick's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 195
From: In a meeting
Originally posted by Oli
Yep! Fluid changed & lines bled. I was just about to get new pads (and drilled rotors).
I'll see if I can get my hands on some LS1 calipers and rotors. It's not that easy to get parts here in Germany. (Dealers, specialized on US-cars, love to rip us off, over here...)
Get a good high temp fluid like ATE Super Blue when you change--typical GM fluid boils pretty fast at autobahn speeds. The Hawk HP Plus pads (I'd go HP Plus on the front, HPS on the back), ATE fluid, and if you are really serious, some stainless steel replacement pistons in your calipers will really help a lot.
Old Oct 2, 2003 | 01:38 PM
  #17  
Oli's Avatar
Oli
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 24
From: Germany
Thumbs up

Thanks everybody,
this is really a great board!
Old Oct 2, 2003 | 07:47 PM
  #18  
lateapex's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
If you are not going to be road racing, then I agree with most of the responses you have already gotten. A good carbon/metallic or carbon/Kevlar pad will make a huge improvement. Hawk HP+ or KFP Gold would be my recommendation. On an LT1 car with stock brakes, you can use the same compound front and rear. I have used a lower friction pad in the rear, and the same pad. If you choose Hawk, then you might use the HPS in the rear so you don’t have to clean the rear wheels so often, and they cost less than the HP+ compound you need in front.

A good high-temp fluid is very necessary with those brakes if you will be making maximum deceleration stops from high speeds. Ate blue or gold should be very affordable in Germany, and it is good enough for the use you are describing. Unfortunately, stainless steel pistons are not available for LT1 or LS1 front calipers, but you shouldn’t need them apart from competition.

I fully agree with most on this thread, cross-drilled rotors are for show, not performance. The only noticeable effect would be a slightly better ride if you drilled out 2 pounds of rotor per side. Maybe equivalent to reducing your tire pressures by 1 psi, or less. The only reason that any modern race cars use them is the slight weight reduction. Brake pads only out-gas when their critical temperature has been exceeded (fade). If you don’t use organic “el cheapo pads”, that won’t be a problem. http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html

Bob Bishop
Old Oct 2, 2003 | 07:53 PM
  #19  
TA Dreaming's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 433
From: Athens, GA
i just put hawk HP+ pads on the front and HPS pads on the rear of my formula. i replaced the fluid with valvoline synthetic and had the rotors turned to insure they were not warped.

i to was looking for a cheap way to improve my brakes with out spending a lot. i am so far very pleased with the way the pads work. they really do make a great difference. the only disadvantage is purely cosmetic and that is the front rotors dust a lot.

i have not put them through the paces yet, but so far im questioning rather or not ill need to do the LS1/C5 brake upgrade. the difference was that great. good luck. trey
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kolbaso
New Member Introduction
1
May 21, 2015 01:49 PM
PFYC
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
May 1, 2015 01:14 PM
RichJ
Drag Racing Technique
14
Sep 26, 2002 09:43 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:30 AM.