I thought I would make a thread about this to eliminate all the emails and PMs I get regarding this.

Maybe a moderator can sticky it.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/403151...vrolet-camaro/

Start at the bottom of the page.

Parts you need:

T-tops
T-top brackets for locking pins
T-top bracket washers to adjust for a tight fit
T-top center trim piece/divider
T-top headliner
Interior plastic A-pillar trim for both driver and passenger sides
Rear plastic trim to cover rear T-top brackets for both Driver and passenger sides
Weather stripping for driver and passenger sides
T-top holders for hatch (optional)
Fasteners for above

Basically go to a junkyard and strip off everything T-top related. Takes about 20 mins to strip it off.

Follow the above guide.

Make sure you plug any holes in the roof frame after you cut off the skin. Otherwise you will get water in there. I used body epoxy but you can fibreglass it as well.

 

Great write up Grip!
I plane to do this sometime soon (already have a doner car)

Since some time has passed do you have any other suggestions or pointers?

 

I'd be scared i'd mess up. I could never cut the roof off my Camaro... but then again I don't have to I alread have t-tops....good write up though.

 

do i have to do any reinforcing to my roof...and also does this weaken the structure of the car at all??

 

I've got t-tops and dont even use them, there's always too much stuff in the trunk to store them back there, I like having a glass roof but I wouldn't mind having the stiffer frame of a hard top, plus I think the hard tops look damn good, inside and out. Plus the Hardtops hold up better to the elements. Mos the camaros out there have t-tops anyway, In fact I would consider trading my car for a hardtop z-28.

 

I'm in the middle of a conversion and having a problem. My mechanic friend is doing the job and says it's leaking when he tests it. I've read a few of these posts / write up's and you all say "I spent a couple weeks finding and fixing leaks". What do you adjust to fix the leaks and how? He says the seals may just be too old and I might need to get new ones ...they're from a 100K mile car. He also says the windshield seal is different on a T-top car and to really do it right I would need to remove the windshield and put the correct seal in ....admitting that no one can guarantee that the windshield won't break upon attempting it. None of the write up's mention replacing the windshield seal and many of them say there are no problems with leaks in spite of that.

Please advise, thank you.

Edit: Well we figured it out, it is the lack of a windshield seal. That is clearly where it's leaking (about halfway down the A-B pillars the water comes out, but you can clearly see it go in at the top of the windshield in that little valley). I told him to just use some permatex black RTV sealant and see how it works. He said no one will try to put a seal in there without lifting the windshield, and if you lift the windshield there's no guarantee it won't crack. The hell with that, I say seal it up with some RTV and call it a day (as long as it works).

 

My V6 car was a factory t-top, and leaked badly across the top of the windshield when I got it almost 5 years ago, Mostly due to a shoddy windshield replacement..... I used plain black body sealant/window sealer in a smooth bead across the top and top corners real good. Didnt look out of place and sealed well, was still good untill yesterday when i finally stripped the car. I pulled the windshield by myself with just a gasket scraper..... ya... Glad I never got hit in that car. The permatex should be fine. I posted the t-top conversion set from that car on Craigslist last night and already have emails about it. lol More popular than I thought I guess.

 

Ok since you guys are dealing with old Seals....listen up!

T-Tops for years have leaked and people blame the t-tops or weathstripping as a bad design......thats becuase they dont know how to care for the t-top seals. How would you......the dealer wont tell you but the parts counter will sell you a bottle of T-Top weatherstripping conditioner!

To revive bad seals and condition the seals (weatherstripping) you already have, put the car in the sun with tops removed. Let the weatherstrip get hot and run a small amount of vaseline into the weatherstrip. You want a light coat of LUBE....lol The vaseline will penetrate into the weatherstrip and make it swell.

If you buy the GM product it does the same thing for more money.

Hope this helps anyone reading in the future.

Terry

 

terry, thanks i will try that because i have one spot on my car that leaks and @ z28beast, yes the frames of t top cars arent as good as regular cars, because if you put the pedal to the metal, you can twist the frame and mess your t tops up, trust me, it sucks when that happens, i floored it going up a hill, and my t top on the drivers side poped out

 

i just did this conversion to my 1993 Camaro Z28 M6 and it went well, was alittle worried about the cutting of the roof panels, but once i cut them off i just figured what the hell no need to worry now, im already screwed,

hoping theres no leaks,

 

Hello i need help to identify this Piece which is missing on the driver and passenger sides.
when the guy did my t-top conversion last week.
please Help

 

Dead link to the "How to...."

 

All I can do it try and keep the link up to date. If the OP chooses to take their site down, there is nothing we can do.

TRY THIS LINK INSTEAD:

Go here:

http://www.dw-zone.com/

On the links list at the top, click on "My 94 Firebird Formula (Sold It)"

Scroll down to the very bottom of the page, and click on "T-Top Install Page"

Extremely detailed "how to".

Or....

http://www.dw-zone.com/t-tops/t-top.asp

 

I re-used what was left from my hard top.... AND.... filled some of that gap with a vacuum line. Use PLAIN BLACK RTV (NOT "Ultra Black", it is gray!) to blend it in nicely. I did this over 5 years ago and it still looks great, no one has ever noticed, I have always had to point it out. Just measure the gap and you can determine how thick the vacuum line needs to be. Super easy, effective and cheap fix.