I was thinking the same thing but couldnt remeber who it was. I dont think the purpose of the doors were for the shaved handles but for light wait drag cars. I may be wrong.

 

if the procedure was done right then there isnt any reason the "shave job" should show up.. if you do decide to shave your handles.. youre gonna have to cut out the existing pocket and make sure the fiberglass youre using is roughly the same thickness as the shell.. you also need to heat and cool the repair several times before you sand it.. just to make sure you get all the resin and vapors dry and cured.. i would even go as far as heat and cool.. then sand then heat a cool again.. then have it sit out in the sun and weather for at least a week with just primer on it.. just to make sure the repair is " done" then i would just block sand the primer and paint it..

 

have you ever tried shaving door handles on a car like an fbody before?

 

no but i have done plenty of repairs on the doors.. and on the crappy american sports car design hoods.. all the smc parts of a camaro too.. and i can tell you that procedure will work.. my buddy also repairs boats for a living and 100 percent agrees.. if you would like me to prove anything.. i will be more than happy to shave my buddys doors..

 

I wasn't trying to make an insult... honestly I'm just trying to find a solution. I"ll try anything that's worth it.

 

i bet money that as long as its done as stated above then you shouldnt have many problems.. *shouldnt* after fixing mutiple crappy american sports car design hoods..(thin) haha.. and repairing almost every part on camaros and firebirds im positive on the procedure that needs to be done..

 

I think in all honesty it would be easier to make a new door skin. A bit more expensive if you didn't have to redo it. But in the long run, alot cheaper. Make a mold of the door without handles. lay down a gel coat and then 4-5 layers or glass. Bagging it would be ideal as it's big. Afix it to the door with windshield adhesive from your local Automotive store. call it a day.

Probably get out of the whole thing for a grand. This would be a do it and forget it deal.

 

alot of ppl would have problems with a) mixing the resin right b)getting no air pockets c) getting the entire door straight d) waiting long enough.. if you just do it like i said then you can blend the paint on the door and the quarter..the way youre saying you would have to paint the entire door, the jamb, blend the fender and the quarter.. way to much drama.. you would have to be rather expirienced to remake a whole door skin.. as apposed to just shaving a door handle..

 

Hate to tell you all, but one of my doors that was cut out, fiberglassed, and it sat for 6 months all in trying to prove it could be done and cured right still can be slightly seen by the trained eye. It has to do with the doors and whatever you patched in expanding and contracting in the heat of the day at different rates, at least that is our theory.

 

and a good theory at that.. but im sure that "if" its done right.. you shouldnt have any problems.. i mean its reality.. ****s gonna go wrong.. but you can do it where its a flawless repair.. is the repair just as thick as teh door.. is it the same type of mesh? is it the same type of resin or just bondo brand.. it all plays a factor..

 

The repair is as thick as the door, they tried smc and all kinds of stuff-this same shop made a nice hood out of an asc design hood on my car as well, so I know they are qualified.

 

yeah.. no luck with the smc on fiber glass for me either.. man asc needs some quality control..lol..

 

the whole car is going to be painted when I do this, down side it's black!

 

no no no.. black is awesome..

 

fast orange have you ever run your car down the track with the stock rear and the setup you have?