Pics of my interior
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 267
From: McKeesport, PA, USA
Yes, i pulled out the red bulb and its holder from behind the doors, and just widen the hole a little so the new LED would fit in. The bulbs i bought are the Part Number: RL5-B5515 Honestly, i think you can go with the weaker ones in the doors, I'm not going to change mine out now though
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 267
From: McKeesport, PA, USA
wow, i like all the good responses
Crazyjim, ithought about a differnt shade, but that is a CLOSE match to my exterior, but after seeing it with my aluminum overlays a darker shade would set them apart. When my car gets painted i'll decide then.
cbuns55, I used the plastikote stuff from pepboys. It worked well for me, except i had a can of clear that was spitting and i have a few dark tiny spots on my guage bezel. Some stress prepping more than anything, I do recomend sanding as it doesn't take much longer. Primer is not neccessary, but i again recomend it, it will at least show you how good your sanding job is before the base coat. only need to base coat it until it looks good, then spray clear till you dont' want to anymore. clear needs to be really light smooth coats if you want a nice smooth finish. Start with easy pieces like the radio bezel and the door trims, the bezel is the hardest to do because of the curves. Don't try to rush all the pieces in one day unless you have the room to lay everything out.
My finance already scratched one of my door pieces with her ring, so i'd strongly recommend fewer coats to keep it thin, although I think she would have scratched the unpainted surface with how hard she hit it
Sometimes I think about not allowing passengers in my car.
Crazyjim, ithought about a differnt shade, but that is a CLOSE match to my exterior, but after seeing it with my aluminum overlays a darker shade would set them apart. When my car gets painted i'll decide then.
cbuns55, I used the plastikote stuff from pepboys. It worked well for me, except i had a can of clear that was spitting and i have a few dark tiny spots on my guage bezel. Some stress prepping more than anything, I do recomend sanding as it doesn't take much longer. Primer is not neccessary, but i again recomend it, it will at least show you how good your sanding job is before the base coat. only need to base coat it until it looks good, then spray clear till you dont' want to anymore. clear needs to be really light smooth coats if you want a nice smooth finish. Start with easy pieces like the radio bezel and the door trims, the bezel is the hardest to do because of the curves. Don't try to rush all the pieces in one day unless you have the room to lay everything out.
My finance already scratched one of my door pieces with her ring, so i'd strongly recommend fewer coats to keep it thin, although I think she would have scratched the unpainted surface with how hard she hit it
Sometimes I think about not allowing passengers in my car.
Last edited by MikeStank; May 30, 2004 at 11:10 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 497
From: Atlanta, Ga
I see nothing rice about it!!!!
good job man. The factory lighting is so dim that you almost HAVE to upgrade to something different. You should check out "rhinosarehorny" car. He did something like that to his including his vents.
good job man. The factory lighting is so dim that you almost HAVE to upgrade to something different. You should check out "rhinosarehorny" car. He did something like that to his including his vents.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 93
as far as the gauge lighting go.. the camaro have a blue film in all of their gauges, HAVC, and headligth control **** areas. I have replced all of my lights with white LEDS and it still has a sort of bluish tint to it. You cannot remove this film period. You can however do a gauge cluster swap out of a camaro into a TA if you want the Blue gauges. I have seen it done several times. The LEDS behind the gauges are size 194 bulbs and are just straight plug in
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