LT1 to LS1 Dash Conversion, anyone?
I did a T/A dash swap in my 95 Z28. It is a giant PITA. I was removing the A/C so it would be a bigger pain to get all that crap back in there. Only big thing to worry about is the wiring. The T/A and Z were different. If you have a shop manual its not hard to find out what wire goes where. Here is my big hint: Make sure you label the wires that are the same color before you remove them from the old harness. Some of these wires are the same color but do very different things. I got 2 switched around when i did my car. I was more worried about getting the old wires out of the harness (used a very small screw driver kinda like the ones for glasses) and didnt notice there were a few same color wires.
There is a little trick to get the old wires out using the screw driver. You need to stick it in the front of the harness where the male plug does not go. This will push in the retaining clip that holds in the wire. You will get it after a few hrs of trying. A real PITA so do it when the dash is out of the car for room issues. Some wires are easy and some are hard just take your time.
There is a little trick to get the old wires out using the screw driver. You need to stick it in the front of the harness where the male plug does not go. This will push in the retaining clip that holds in the wire. You will get it after a few hrs of trying. A real PITA so do it when the dash is out of the car for room issues. Some wires are easy and some are hard just take your time.
Originally posted by Dark Angel
I would assume the main difference between the 97 and 98+ is because of the signals from the LS1 and the LT1 being different?
I would assume the main difference between the 97 and 98+ is because of the signals from the LS1 and the LT1 being different?
Then scan the PCM and see what the differences are in the PCM & the gauges values....
I just completed this dash swap using the link that is posted in this thread
. It isn't hard at all. If you don't mind soldering wires to extend them and using heat shrink then go for it. I did mine over 2 weeks by slowly taking my time and double checking everything. I was lucky to find the newer 97 cluster with the digital odometer and everything works perfectly. I don't recommend using the analog cluster out of a 97 because they not near as nice as far as workmanship and the quality of the cluster, they resemble the 93-96 style needles which are fatter. I even installed my tach light in the driverside where the round defrost vent is. After doing this I noticed that my tach was off by about 300rpm with the new cluster so I hooked up my laptop and used freescan to find the actual rmp and pulled the needle off while the car was running and then put it back so that it matched the freescan value. Now I have an LT1 with an accurate tach, how many people without an aftermarket tack can say that about an LT1 Camaro!!! I recommend this to anyone with a 93-96 for the simple fact that this dash doesn't rattle and make noise like the old one did. If you have any questions, it is still pretty fresh in my head so I can help you out if you want anymore information. In general this is a hobby and one I enjoy, so your experience may vary.
BTW I have a 1995 Z28 6-speed
I now have a 97 motor/97 dash so pretty much, it is a 97 but with OBDI
. It isn't hard at all. If you don't mind soldering wires to extend them and using heat shrink then go for it. I did mine over 2 weeks by slowly taking my time and double checking everything. I was lucky to find the newer 97 cluster with the digital odometer and everything works perfectly. I don't recommend using the analog cluster out of a 97 because they not near as nice as far as workmanship and the quality of the cluster, they resemble the 93-96 style needles which are fatter. I even installed my tach light in the driverside where the round defrost vent is. After doing this I noticed that my tach was off by about 300rpm with the new cluster so I hooked up my laptop and used freescan to find the actual rmp and pulled the needle off while the car was running and then put it back so that it matched the freescan value. Now I have an LT1 with an accurate tach, how many people without an aftermarket tack can say that about an LT1 Camaro!!! I recommend this to anyone with a 93-96 for the simple fact that this dash doesn't rattle and make noise like the old one did. If you have any questions, it is still pretty fresh in my head so I can help you out if you want anymore information. In general this is a hobby and one I enjoy, so your experience may vary. BTW I have a 1995 Z28 6-speed
I now have a 97 motor/97 dash so pretty much, it is a 97 but with OBDI
I took them out forever. Like I say if your doing a true swap its going to be a real PITA. You could hide a small child under my dash now there is soooooo much room. Youwill be amazed at how much crap is under there and how much room there is. The stearing colum is like 5 feet long.
The airbag actually has it's own enclosure that it sits in which screws to the dash. The only thing you should always do when working near a airbag is disconnect the battery. It has some connectors you have to disconnect, but other than that you can pull it out with the old dash and then just unbolt it from the old dash and bolt it into the new one before you install it.


