94BlackBowtie

Does anyone know where I can find these? No parts stores around me have them, checked yesterday at all of them (Pep Boys, Advance, AutoZone...)

I need four of them before I plug in my new head and fog lights. Just like the topic says - 100 Watt direct to battery relay kits. If it matters I am running 100W H3 and 100W 9005 Bulbs.

Thanks!

97FormulaWS-6

I think you're confused....

they don't rate Relay's in Watts....

I think what you are looking for is a 30 or 40 AMP relay.

Go in and tell them that and I KNOW they stock those.

94BlackBowtie

I must be confused...the guy that I am following on this part of it said he used 100W direct to battery relay kits from Pep Boys? Any other advice you can give me will help...but what I need this for is to boost the wiring up so it will support the 100W bulbs...what do I need? a 40 amp relay? Just feed me advice, I am all ears.

pu12en12g

Bad news man. Parts stores aren't gonna have the kit. The closest thing they will have is a wiring harness for aux. fog lights.

This will not work, however it may give you some of the connections + the correct guage wire.

If you need it ASAP, you will have to make your own.

Here is a schematic

And here is some additional info for you:

"THE BASIC IDEA

The basic idea is to source the headlight power from the alternator, use
the original wires to simply turn on relays, and use heavy gauge wiring
for the new power and ground wires. Alternator voltage is the highest.
Everywhere else in the system, voltage drop due to length, wire gauge,
and resistance due to age reduces voltage from alternator voltage. It
might not seem like much, perhaps just half a volt. Headlights put out
full output at about 13.5 volts, and it is likely that your headlights
are not reaching this point. If you drop to 12.8 volts, you get only 83%
of the rated output of your headlights. Many people do not know that the
advertised output of most sereo amplifiers is at 13.8 volts or 14.4
volts, and that only a few manufacturers more honestly rate the output at
12 volts. They should be wired off the alternator also if you need the
rated output.

MY EXPERIENCE AND TESTING

I decided to rewire my headlights. I am halfway done (driver's side), so
I can report on the voltage differences. On the passenger side, which
still uses the stock wiring, I have 12.55 volts at the headlights when
the engine is warm (output drops a few tenths of a volt as the the
alternator warms up; it started out at 12.8 volts at the headlights). On
the driver's side, which is all new heavy gauge wiring, mostly soldered,
wired to the alternator, using relays triggered by the original wiring, I
have 13.85 volts at the headlights after the voltage has stabilized from
a cold start. In other words, I have probably 75% to 80% of rated output
on the passenger side, and 100% of rated output on the driver's side.
Also note that I have the external
domestic regulator conversion to the alternator, an upgrade that probably
increases voltage slightly over stock and keeps voltage more stable and
consistent under load. This upgrade has been on the car for several
years, and I have not yet done a stock/external regulator comparison test
(but I may if I find some free time).

IS IT CHEAP AND EASY OR EXPENSIVE AND A LOT OF WORK?
WHAT DO YOU NEED?

I thought it would be a simple job that would take a couple of hours and
cost $25. It is more expensive than that and time consuming job if done
right. Ideally, terminals shoudl be soldered. You need lots of wire.
And it has to be cut and put into harnesses. You have to do a lot of
thinking (the first time, at least). And you need relays and you should
use relay harness blocks. I probably spent $75 on parts (and I salvaged
all the relays and harness blocks for free from a few wrecked Volvos that
my mechanic is preparing to junk -- to buy five relays could cost half
the $75 again). I have more than a full day in this job and I am still
not finished. I have done most of the groundwork for the passenger side,
so completing the job should not require more than another couple of
hours. I tried using a pistol style high power soldering gun, but it
eventually gave up. I have had much better luck with a marine supply
Anchor brand butane soldering torch that cost $13. It works incredibly
well.

I already have 100W H1 high beams, and 80W/100W H4 low/high beams. As
part of this job, I upgraded the fog light wiring as well and swapped in
100W H3 bulbs for the 55W H3s that were in the lamps. I am also cleaning
up some of my messy wiring of other accessories as I go along. I plan to
wire my electric primary fan to the alternator and also the stereo
amplifier that I will be installing soon. Everything else can go off the
battery."

94BlackBowtie

So there isn't anywhere on the net I can get them either? If I have to order them, that would be fine, because I can get fast shipping probably...but I just want to get something. My bulbs are in and I have yet to find the wiring to support them. Ahhhh!

Note this piece of another post of yours (purenrg)
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by My94RedZ28A4
Or did you do a relay/direct-to-battery approach? (To get higher voltage to the bulbs)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You replied with:

THIS I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend. I have seen it in action but haven't purchased it yet, because to tell you the truth I must be an idiot. The kits are only like $20, and with the kit you should put out a more consistent, better illumination. I have to go write that down so I remember to order it

pu12en12g

This is the best one I have seen for a decent price. There are ones for $20, but no one has photos, or details of exactly what gauge wiring they include.. etc..

http://suvlights.tripod.com/suvlight...re-harness.htm

(By the way are the foglights plastic or glass ? If they are plastic, be careful with the 100w fogs... )

94BlackBowtie

Thanks Paul -
I have a couple of 30 AMP relay's that I may splice into my existing wiring harness. Would that be a bad idea? or should I be ok?

On the fog's - the lenses are glass - the housings are metal.

pu12en12g

Well, I would wait until you have the heavier guage wiring, otherwise there is no point.. . your 100w bulbs will be fine for now, if you wire them CORRECTLY. in other words, the relays themselves aren't going to help you much.

What brand of bulbs are you going to be running ?

Also, I think it would be a great idea to get a voltmeter and measure what kind of current you are getting through the stock wiring (measured at the bulb) and then measure the current after ? Kind of like a before / after type deal. It could help alot of people on the board to understand why this is worth it.

94BlackBowtie

What about these harnesses? They are only $7 or so bucks, but they are supposedly high wattage wiring harnesses...only problem is that I can't find an H3 heavy duty harness.

Or these?

pu12en12g

Yea.. those are some of the cheap ones that you see everywhere. The only thing is, I can't get any clear answer as to exactly what gauge wiring is used, and WHAT exactly it includes.

94BlackBowtie

Cool man - I am searching some of the riceboy sites right now trying to see what they do. Them dudes are like wizards at this stuff.