GREAT upgrade for those crappy headlights!! (photos w/ in)
01-07-2007, 09:21 PM
#316
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Location: KCMO
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01-07-2007, 10:03 PM
#317
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Location: newton, kansas, USA
Posts: 6,069
www.rallylights.com has the dimensions of all the lights.
01-08-2007, 08:50 PM
#318
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Location: KCMO
Posts: 433
So to get the 90mm to be HID do I have to buy the whole hella HID kit (like a thousand bucks for 2 
), or can another HID conversion be bought and placed inside the housing . I thought I read something had to be trimmed to make this method work, or am I way off. Thanks.
), or can another HID conversion be bought and placed inside the housing . I thought I read something had to be trimmed to make this method work, or am I way off. Thanks.
01-17-2007, 01:40 PM
#319
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, TN
Posts: 229
Just to answer a few questions that have come up:
The european beam pattern (ECE)is like this:
....../ i.e. it keeps going up at a constant angle on the right
___/
The US pattern (DOT) is:
......______ i.e. it gets cut off at a certain height on the right.
___/
The corner where the lower part of the beam meets the angled part needs to be aimed straight ahead.
The idea of the higher cutoff on the right is to light up the side of the road and the signs that are there.
The beam pattern is much wider than the stock lighting, so you'll notice that you won't need any foglights to "light up the sides of the road" anymore.
If you want to have HID, you can go the hard route (as I did
) or the easy route which is to buy the D2S housing for $150 a piece at rallylights and then buy a set of D2S bulbs and ballasts on eBay. I got them there for ~$200. I modified my regular 90mm modules and that took me a lot of work and testing...
HTH and thanks for keeping the thread alive!
Sam
The european beam pattern (ECE)is like this:
....../ i.e. it keeps going up at a constant angle on the right
___/
The US pattern (DOT) is:
......______ i.e. it gets cut off at a certain height on the right.
___/
The corner where the lower part of the beam meets the angled part needs to be aimed straight ahead.
The idea of the higher cutoff on the right is to light up the side of the road and the signs that are there.
The beam pattern is much wider than the stock lighting, so you'll notice that you won't need any foglights to "light up the sides of the road" anymore.
If you want to have HID, you can go the hard route (as I did
) or the easy route which is to buy the D2S housing for $150 a piece at rallylights and then buy a set of D2S bulbs and ballasts on eBay. I got them there for ~$200. I modified my regular 90mm modules and that took me a lot of work and testing...HTH and thanks for keeping the thread alive!
Sam
Last edited by Sam95ZNoTop; 01-17-2007 at 01:44 PM.
01-17-2007, 02:07 PM
#320
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: newton, kansas, USA
Posts: 6,069
Just to answer a few questions that have come up:
The european beam pattern (ECE)is like this:
....../ i.e. it keeps going up at a constant angle on the right
___/
The US pattern (DOT) is:
......______ i.e. it gets cut off at a certain height on the right.
___/
The corner where the lower part of the beam meets the angled part needs to be aimed straight ahead.
The idea of the higher cutoff on the right is to light up the side of the road and the signs that are there.
The beam pattern is much wider than the stock lighting, so you'll notice that you won't need any foglights to "light up the sides of the road" anymore.
If you want to have HID, you can go the hard route (as I did ) or the easy route which is to buy the D2S housing for $150 a piece at rallylights and then buy a set of D2S bulbs and ballasts on eBay. I got them there for ~$200. I modified my regular 90mm modules and that took me a lot of work and testing...
HTH and thanks for keeping the thread alive!
Sam
The european beam pattern (ECE)is like this:
....../ i.e. it keeps going up at a constant angle on the right
___/
The US pattern (DOT) is:
......______ i.e. it gets cut off at a certain height on the right.
___/
The corner where the lower part of the beam meets the angled part needs to be aimed straight ahead.
The idea of the higher cutoff on the right is to light up the side of the road and the signs that are there.
The beam pattern is much wider than the stock lighting, so you'll notice that you won't need any foglights to "light up the sides of the road" anymore.
If you want to have HID, you can go the hard route (as I did
) or the easy route which is to buy the D2S housing for $150 a piece at rallylights and then buy a set of D2S bulbs and ballasts on eBay. I got them there for ~$200. I modified my regular 90mm modules and that took me a lot of work and testing...HTH and thanks for keeping the thread alive!
Sam
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showt...&highlight=HID
I installed some hyper white 100watt bulbs in my 90mm's and then put a pair of my old FF75 Driving lights in place of my Fogs. The Driving lights really make a big difference with the 90mm's, the Fogs were tough to tell they were on with the 90's on.
Last edited by Z95m6; 01-17-2007 at 02:09 PM.
07-25-2007, 10:04 PM
#322
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, TN
Posts: 229
Here is a guide showing how to convert the 90mm's to HIDs.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showt...&highlight=HID
I installed some hyper white 100watt bulbs in my 90mm's and then put a pair of my old FF75 Driving lights in place of my Fogs. The Driving lights really make a big difference with the 90mm's, the Fogs were tough to tell they were on with the 90's on.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showt...&highlight=HID
I installed some hyper white 100watt bulbs in my 90mm's and then put a pair of my old FF75 Driving lights in place of my Fogs. The Driving lights really make a big difference with the 90mm's, the Fogs were tough to tell they were on with the 90's on.
Thansk for keeping this alive! I still get emailed questions about this conversion on a regular basis. Even years later!
Sam
05-04-2008, 09:18 PM
#325
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, TN
Posts: 229
That looks good! Turns out that you ended up going the Hella 90mm way after all! 
I see that you are using threaded rod... When I did my upgrade to HID, I actually used some log 1/4-20 screws with washers and nuts on the car mounting holes. It's much more solid than the Hella adjusters and easier to adjust!
I like the idea of spraying everything a matte black, kinda prevents you from seeing too much of the stuff back there. Thaks for the idea!
Sam
I see that you are using threaded rod... When I did my upgrade to HID, I actually used some log 1/4-20 screws with washers and nuts on the car mounting holes. It's much more solid than the Hella adjusters and easier to adjust!I like the idea of spraying everything a matte black, kinda prevents you from seeing too much of the stuff back there. Thaks for the idea!
Sam
05-09-2009, 10:20 AM
#329
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Location: Sacramento
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