Excellent. Now, we have instructions for both the relay method and the resistor method. Sounds like a plan. Thanks to everyone for the input. Now me and Highlander have some things to try!

-Mike

 

The problem with my hotmail account was that since I get so much spam... the only message I can receive is via the forum... The rest is deleted or returned...

Post the instructions for the resistor...

I think its the same thing as the relay but instead of the relay you use a resistor... but when I used a 15 ohm resistor.. it fried!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I may try in the future a higher watt resistor or something...

 

I only have heard of one guy to get the resistor to work in this circuit. You would need a higher wattage type to dissapate the heat generated. You would wire the resistor in a series connection as opposed to the parallel conncection used with a relay. I've read about a couple guys that made the ABS light go out by just wiring in a standard tail light bulb and socket in with the 3rd brake light to add the needed resistance and shoving it up inside the spoiler out of the way.

 

Now THERE'S an idea. Jeez...another time when "K.I.S.S." comes to mind.

(Keep It Simple Stupid!)

Thanks,
Mike

 

The bulb keeps making heat inside there!!!!!!!!!!

Anyways... the 10 ohm I used in series the first time.. it didn't work.. it still lit up the lights but the abs was tripping anyways...

My question is: why wouldn't the resistor work in paralell too, since all the relay is doing is using the coil to send the resistance needed for the abs???

I tried the resistor in paralell 15ohm and it fried!!!! didn't try the 10ohm though...

 

Just thought I'd better post in this one since I'm the guy that got the resistor to work. There are three methods that should work to disable the ABS inop light: inserting a bulb, a relay, or a resistor. Basically, a light bulb can be thought of as a resistor, so my idea was to replace the bulbs with a resistor that would allow the same current to pass through to light the LEDs and would also allow enough voltage to light the LEDs. I knew that the resistance produced by the bulbs in the regular third brake light was small, so I needed a small resistor with a small resistance--that's why I chose the 10 ohm resistor.

I did not put the resistor in parallel with the LEDs because as you know (and what's causing the problem) the LEDs provide no resistance and therefore provide no backfeeding for the ABS to sense them. Also, LEDs function as a diode which only allows current to flow one way, and in general current always will take the path of least resistance. With all that said, basically, the current will just flow by the resistor and through the LEDs and the resistor won't function.

I went throught about two months of wiring craziness to install my export taillights and this is when I discovered the infamous ABS inop light. Check the link in my sig for the export taillight install and you'll see why a resistor/relay/bulb is needed.

I've been emailing back and forth with a guy having the same problem--the resistor mod is not working for him. He said he wired everything correctly with a 10 ohm resistor and he still received an ABS inop light. I ended up telling him to try different resistors (but feel the resistor and make sure it doesn't get to hot when braking, and make sure the LEDs still have enough voltage to light), or to try the relay mod because it's a proven method of solving the ABS inop problem. My resistor idea worked for me, but it obviously isn't working for a lot of people, so my advice is to try different resistors or use the relay mod (I don't suggest the bulb mod).

I hope this helps you guys!