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Another new 93-97 Headlight Idea...

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Old Oct 1, 2002 | 10:37 AM
  #16  
TravisWsparks2's Avatar
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Where can you get a HID kit for 400...everywhere ive seen them they are like 700 or 1000
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 10:53 AM
  #17  
94BlackBowtie's Avatar
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Originally posted by TravisWsparks2
Where can you get a HID kit for 400...everywhere ive seen them they are like 700 or 1000
Check out this thread...plus this guy is selling his (see the last couple of posts)...he offered to order me the stuff through his connection and then just send it to me, nice guy (JT95...).
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 12:33 PM
  #18  
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Re: Update on H4351 Sealed Beam Housings from ProStreetLighting.com

Originally posted by 94BlackBowtie
That's when I put htem back in the box. I did however go ahead and use the bulbs they sent, and I think they look pretty good. Check them out here.

So I wouldn't advise these housings unless you are wanting to modify your frames a little bit...
Did you buy the housings seperately, or did the bulbs come with them?

If you cannot get your money back, have you thought about selling the housings? I might be interested.

Thanks
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 12:47 PM
  #19  
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Hey man, I read your post on putting the high beams in the low beam locations, and understand why you may be interested.

But let me be completely honest with you...
I wouldn't sell them to you. I can get my money back, but you couldn't...I only have 10 days to return them, so if you decided you didn't like them, then you'd just be out of $50 bucks and have something that isn't the nicest product. From what I understand, these are better than the AutoOptiks, but they still have the problem of not fitting in the frame. I will be more than happy to show you how to use your stock Guide halogen sealed beam housings though. It is very simple to do, it took me about 15 minutes last night to put the 9006 bulbs in them. You can see the pics of the lights on my above post...Or if you just didn't want to fool with it, send me your Guide housings and 9006 bulbs and I will do it for you for free. But like I said, it's not that hard. E-mail me if you want more info on anything.
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 01:10 PM
  #20  
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The h4351 and h4352's do suck, but looking, the 9005 and 9006's arent much brighter. A little, maybe, but nothing great. H4 bulbs are a blast, perhaps modifying those would prove more useful to figure out, as they can range up over 100watts, but I also dont know how much the stock wiring can take... hmmm.
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 01:35 PM
  #21  
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Geoff you can get 9005 and 9006 in 100w I ran Nokya 100w 9005's in my stock housings with no problems. Then I just decided I wanted crystal clear housings, so I upgraded again. I am working on some video (night shots) that will show you guys what 100w 4300's look like on our cars, VS. 5000k 100w VS. stock.
Old Oct 1, 2002 | 01:39 PM
  #22  
94BlackBowtie's Avatar
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Originally posted by Geoff Chadwick
The h4351 and h4352's do suck, but looking, the 9005 and 9006's arent much brighter. A little, maybe, but nothing great. H4 bulbs are a blast, perhaps modifying those would prove more useful to figure out, as they can range up over 100watts, but I also dont know how much the stock wiring can take... hmmm.
Well, the 9006 bulbs that I put in mine aren't really that much brighter...but they are whiter. But just as you said with the higher wattage bulbs, you can get 9005's and 9006's that do burn brighter. H4 bulbs are a dual fillament bulb (high beam/low beam), but the H7's aren't. That's what PT has (pu12en12g). They are much brighter when you upgrade to the higher wattage bulbs. So it is possible to have a brighter light with the 9006's, but I was just going for the whiter light with this upgrade. The question about how much wattage the harness can handle is a question for PT...? Well, he just answered ahead of me...

Still in question though...you are running the stock wiring harness, right PT?
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 08:24 AM
  #23  
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*glued to his monitor*

I want to know

I know the H4's are dual. That was what I wanted actually. My logic said that in the low state, though a higher drain on the alternator, 4 lows would work, or even better, in the higher state, 4 highs. Now obviously the lights are angled differently, so the headlights that are normally on low beam wont do that much good, so you angle the high beams up a little. That was my idea.

I also prefer the look of the 6000k HID's, but dont want the price. Some silicone and elbow grease for a set of 4 bulbs though dosent bother me at all. More drain on the alternator? Sure. I have the stock sound system and a 6A electric water pump. I can handle some more power.
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 11:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by 94BlackBowtie

Still in question though...you are running the stock wiring harness, right PT?
Yeah I am so far so good, but from what I have heard, the aftermarket harnesses will give you about a 2 volt increase at the bulb, which can make up to a 50% difference in light output. You should not pay more than $35 for a aftermarket harness, so it's WELL worth it.

As far as H4's, I ran H4's for show only and I ran both filiments at once, and uhhh yeah the housings got HOT I wouldn't want to take a chance on that for daily use.. but they were 100+90 W pretty crazy... The H4's were the ones for that yellow Le Mans look (pics on my page)...
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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Lemans look rules. Otherwise the bright white with a purple hue of the 6000k.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...8_299_full.jpg

Is my fav pic of your car. How far did you drop the thing? Looks so freakin evil.

Perhaps I'll start looking for an aftermarket wiring harness...
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 01:24 PM
  #26  
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94BlackBowtie

Yeah, I'd be interested in the siliconing method. I'm sure I could figure it out (I've installed a clutch before) but I haven't looked at mine too much, so any words of wisdom would be cool.

(Like how you got the old ones out) and what kind of silicone you used...

If I threw in some lights, I plan on throwing in some 85-w 5000* K lights or some 55w HIR lights.

I've got one question thought, why the hell does the stock lights have all the little lines and stuff in the glass? Is it there for strength, or to scatter/difuse the beam from the light? To me a crystal-clear lens would be a little brighter and a lot more focused.


Hmmmmmmmm. Me thinking about a dremel, some glass polish, and a completely dissasembled H4314

I wonder if I could grind all the crap off the back of the Glass, then polish it out, reassemble the housing, and then silicone in a high-watt 9006?

As far as will the wiring handle it, you could do this. Measure the voltage you get at the plug, then take the wattage of the bulb, and divide it by the voltage you get. That will give you amps. You could take that number, then multiply by a safety factor (120% ??) and check the fuse for the headlights. If you're over, then you'll need to use a direct battery/relay approach. If you're under, then it will work, but you'd still see a better improvement with the direct battery/relay approach.

Last edited by My94RedZ28A4; Oct 2, 2002 at 01:37 PM.
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 01:31 PM
  #27  
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94RedZ,
You must really want to do somthing different! Man, I don't see how in the world you could disassemble the stock headlight housing, but what a heap of trouble that would be...I suppose the lines are there to scatter/distribute the beam across the surface, but not sure. I'm gonna e-mail you some pics in just a few minutes of the bulb removal. I just used some regular high temp silicone. Got it at Advance for a couple of bucks...sounds good on the lights you are planning to use though...I expect to see pics ... e-mail on the way.
Old Oct 2, 2002 | 02:57 PM
  #28  
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Thumbs up

Got the email...Thanks BlackBowtie

Yep, I've been accused of being different

If I do screw around with grinding a stock headlight, I'll take lots of pics -- just in case it actually works
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