Does anyone have any idea's on how you could go about adapting one to work with a 4th gen or is there kit made already that allows it to be done?

 

Lingenfelter has one I belive although it isnt all that fancy. There was some talk of this in the appearence section a while back.

 

This would be more appropriately posted in "Appearance", rather than Advanced Tech. Moving it there.

 

96Z called it...
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...35&pf%5Fid=494

That would be much easier than adpating one from a GP or a Vette.

 

Yeah, the lingenfelter one would be the easiest. I don't think its all that cool though, a grand prix or vette one would look nicer, but be a lot harder to do. It takes up a pretty big amount of space under the dash.

 

Done a LOT of research on this... stick with the Linginfelter/Defi unit

A Vette/GP unit is too large to fit without a LOT of work, involving cutting into the firewall and such...

 

The description by lingenfelter is very vague. Hows it work, how would you install it?

 

The Lingenfelter unit is just a Defi VSDII

Do a search on google for "Defi VSDII" and you should find some more info on it.

 

Hey guys-

New here, usually just lurking through all the info (more so now that my motor went south). I'm just psyched I can actually contribute a little (for once).

I've been trying to get a HUD into my Impala on and off for a while now and here's what I've learned.

- The Corvette display probably won't work because it runs off the serial bus. Definitely won't if the car's analog, probably won't if the car's serial.

- The GP HUD will work if the PCM receives all the inputs (primarily VSS) through an analog connection. I hooked mine up in about 2 hours of cutting and it actually worked on the first try! There's actually about 5-6 splices you need to make to get all the idiot lights and speedo working (2-3 if you just want the speedo).

- Good luck making it fit! In the Impala, there's a metal crossmember right where the dash meets the windshield. It's not really firewall, but might as well be. It looks like two pieces of welded steel, so (if you haven't guessed already) this is where I'm stuck.

I'm not 100% certain how your car's are set-up, but there's a bunch of ductwork and wiring right where it would need to go under the dash. The wiring has since been "re-located" and the ductwork shouldn't get in the way if there's enough clearancing into the crossmember (and I've got a heat-gun just in case).

Sorry for the lengthy description, but I just wanted to give you guys a clear overview of where my pitfalls were and the results of my snooping under the dash.

Also, all the HUD consists of is two circuit boards (one with the actual display on it) and three mirrors. Theoretically, one should be able to make a custom box with a much smaller profile if they were a better fabricator than myself. Just as long as you keep the mirrors in generally the same configuration, you should be fine.

Where there's a will, there's a way. Good luck!

-Dan
(and I've got complete schematics for the GP HUD. If anyone wants them, please email me off the board - desteban@esteban.com)

 

The space situation is even worse in the F-Body... ther is NO Room in the dash... I've had a GP one and a Vatte on both in my hands and played with them for a while looking at what would have to be done to make them even fit... and it would be a NASTY job... honestly the only way I would attempt it would be during a complete rebuild/restore of the car. At a minimum with the windshield removed... just to get access to what you need to cut...

I could be done, but for 99.9999999% of people, the Defi Unit is the best way...

But I'd LOVE to see pics of what you've accomplished godsmackt12@yahoo.com

 

Here's some pics of my "work".


Tucking the wiring harness under the ductwork.


Most of the dash in the back seat.


Stripped as far as I could without REALLY stripping it down.


Another pic of the carnage that ensued.

Basically all that I actually accomplished was getting the wiring harness well out of the way. I really wish I could have had more time, but I was in a parking lot of a friend's apartment complex. The outer dash really came off easily, but once you get into the inside dash carrier (the black thing that holds the cluster and actually IS the rest of the underlying dash) it get a lot trickier. I would have had to really do a number to get it one more level down (would've made things MUCH easier, though). The ductwork actually came out pretty easily and you can see how I propped it up during the "procedure".

I haven't worked on it since early summer (really need to allot quite a bit of down-time). I'll probably get to it during the winter sometime.

-Dan