95 t/a to ram air
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
If you have a cold air intake for your car it really wouldnt be worth the trouble to make your hood functional. The intake you have now (if you have one) is more than sufficient. Now, if you just want to make it functional for the fact that you can say thats its a true ram air ta... you prolly need to get the setup off a ws6 and do some fabbing to the hood. Its all up to you man. Good luck.
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
im pretty sure the majority of the people on here will attest that what you have is enough. I suppose if you were going like 100mph plus all the time, it may give you a little more at that point...
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
Originally Posted by Antz97ZNJ
cold air will give you more power, no need to make the ra funtional
The WS6 intake will actually flow more air than ANY aftermarket CAI, especially with a de-baffled hood, K&N Filter, and a Fernco Coupler.
The piping losses in the CAI are enough to warrent it less hp, not to mention the ONLY restriction in my intake is the flow through the filter. I can see my TB blades with my hood closed if I remove the air filter; how can you get less restrictive than that???
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
I find it hard to believe that a CAI that starts with the filter in the lower front fender, bends around a few corners, and provides a non-symetrical air flow is going to be more efficient than this. When we put the engine in the car, the guys at Second Street Speed (builders of G. Baxter's 8.6-seocnd 30th SS convertible) took one look at my Callaway Honker, and started shaking their heads...... side to side. Just the excuse I was looking for to pick up a functional Ram Air hood - a decision they fully supported.
You need the airbox, a filter for the box, a gasket to seal the box to the hood, a different hose to connect the AIR pump to the airbox, an extension harness for the MAF sensor (gee.. I just noticed, someone stole my MAF
), the rubber gasket that allows the MAF to sit in the outlet of the airbox, and a flexible connector to fit between the MAF and the throttle body. All of this comes with the SLP Ram Air HO airbox kit. Make sure your hood - what brand is it? - will work with the stock-style airbox. The Suncoast setup uses their own airbox, although the dimensions seem similar to factory. I have seen a couple hoods - e.g. Motion Glass - that look like they might not work with the airbox. I picked up a real WS6 airbox in a deal on some old wheels, and sold the box, filter and pre-molded gasket for $200.
You need the airbox, a filter for the box, a gasket to seal the box to the hood, a different hose to connect the AIR pump to the airbox, an extension harness for the MAF sensor (gee.. I just noticed, someone stole my MAF
), the rubber gasket that allows the MAF to sit in the outlet of the airbox, and a flexible connector to fit between the MAF and the throttle body. All of this comes with the SLP Ram Air HO airbox kit. Make sure your hood - what brand is it? - will work with the stock-style airbox. The Suncoast setup uses their own airbox, although the dimensions seem similar to factory. I have seen a couple hoods - e.g. Motion Glass - that look like they might not work with the airbox. I picked up a real WS6 airbox in a deal on some old wheels, and sold the box, filter and pre-molded gasket for $200.
Last edited by Injuneer; Jul 30, 2004 at 10:41 PM.
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
it is a oem gm ram air hood already the color i need so i'm set just need the air box the coupler and filter just a few odds and ends thats it i can prolly just sell the k&n and break close to even there
Re: 95 t/a to ram air
i use a CAI on my car and i took of the airbox from my Ultra Z hood to do it. may be a bit of a power difference but i noticed a drop in temp from just having the air from the hood cirrculate in the engine bay.
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