Who's right?
Banned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
Re: Who's right?
Originally Posted by n20ta2
My first engine built 12 years ago was lubed with engine oil liberally and the rings didnt seat properly and had to be torn down for a new set.every engine since then has been built wiping the bores with a light machine oil wiped sparingly on the bores, never had a problem since with a good 20 plus engines under my belt.I have heard of the product sstrokerace uses and it also works nicely from what I hear.
Banned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
Re: Who's right?
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
LR, this is the procedure and stuff I use on gapless tops as well. 14-20 Ra, 140-200 Rz on the finsh.
Bret
Bret
Is that working 100% for ya or are there glitches or ya just have to make damn sure it's right?
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 60
Re: Who's right?
When you are using that molly quick seal, what procedure do you use to brake in the motor? I don't have a dyno at my disposal right now, but I want this new motor to be broken in as best as possible. Thanks guys.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: Who's right?
You want to warm the motor up, check to make sure everything is tight (rockers, head bolts/studs) and then start beating on it. That will break it in perfectly.
LR that's worked perfect for me, even rougher I don't think is a problem. The rougher the better most times, less chance for glazing the bores over.
Bret
LR that's worked perfect for me, even rougher I don't think is a problem. The rougher the better most times, less chance for glazing the bores over.
Bret
Banned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
Re: Who's right?
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
You want to warm the motor up, check to make sure everything is tight (rockers, head bolts/studs) and then start beating on it. That will break it in perfectly.
LR that's worked perfect for me, even rougher I don't think is a problem. The rougher the better most times, less chance for glazing the bores over.
Bret
LR that's worked perfect for me, even rougher I don't think is a problem. The rougher the better most times, less chance for glazing the bores over.
Bret
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 293
From: houston, Tx
Re: Who's right?
I have heard of this stuff but never seen it used ever to my knowledge?
I have never had a ring not seal up when honed correctly and with good quality rings and a torque plate etc.
Why is this stuff supposedly needed? If the bore is round and the rings are round they are sealed before start up.
Old lower quality iron rings need a peaked finish and some time to seat but that was because the bores and rings both left a lot to be desired.
What does this stuff do? I HAVE heard about it but when I ask people about it no one has ever used it 99 per cent of the time.
I have never had a ring not seal up when honed correctly and with good quality rings and a torque plate etc.
Why is this stuff supposedly needed? If the bore is round and the rings are round they are sealed before start up.
Old lower quality iron rings need a peaked finish and some time to seat but that was because the bores and rings both left a lot to be desired.
What does this stuff do? I HAVE heard about it but when I ask people about it no one has ever used it 99 per cent of the time.