What does it take to put sbc heads on a LT1. I've read a thread on a different furum where people were using LT1 heads on a sbc. I bleavee there is a area on the bottom of the head that will need drilled out to match the head gasket on the LT1. Is there any welding neede? I guess you could weld the water crossovers closed that go to the intake. Then all you would need is the crossover tube on the back of the heads. Does that sound right? I'm not worried about the intake bolt pattern.

Does someone have some pictures?

Thanks.

I may have found a good deal on some brodix heads that have some good port work done. And on this set of heads the out of the box flow rate is pretty decent.

 

[QUOTE=jakesz28;4847447]What does it take to put sbc heads on a LT1.


About $500, thats what it takes to put Gen1 heads on a LT1



David

 

[QUOTE=FASTFATBOY;4847704]What's involved? I didn't see this before I made my thread.

 

Do a search for "head conversion"



David

 

Not much help here I was hoping someone could post up some pictures.

I called brodix and they will add the conversion to a set of there heads for $400. Some of there heads out of the box have some great flow numbers.

 

If you can get it done for $400 by a company who will warranty their work go ahead and do it, you'll be hard pressed to find a better deal than that.

Check out the Pro1s, and I would suggest going ahead and building the baddest motor you can afford, no sense in having to do it all over again when you decide you want more power.

 

I have a set of converted Brodix -10s. Want 'em? I need to get rid of them.

 

Valve sizes?

Spread port or standard exhaust?

FLow numbers?

Price?


David

 

why go throug all the trouble ? why not buy a gen 1 block ? i just want to understand the reason for even thinking of doing this .

 

reverse flow coolant allows you to get away with a little more compresion on pump gas

 

Plus if you already have an Lt1 powered car it saves all the added expense of converting to a gen 1 engine.

 

2.08, 1.60

Spread port and I have 1 3/4 primary headers and stainless y-pipe to fit.

It's been a while since I've done anything with them but I believe 302@.500 was one of the numbers. I'd have to look them up.

They need repair. I used them for over a year and a piece of a seat fell and messed up a piston. After what I'd spent on them I couldn't justify spending more and they've sat for a couple of years in a tote in my garage. I'm done with them.

PM me or email me and we can talk more if you like.

 

This shows the hard part.
http://www.masnart.com/misc/lt1_head_conversion.htm

You also have to drill & tap for the rear coolant crossover. If I remember correctly, I think the accessory bolt holes are in different locations. It's been quite a while since I've done it, so my memory is a little fuzzy on that part.

 

This is what I wanted to see. I don't think that would be that hard to do. I wonder why the brass bushing is pressed in the head rather then welding a piece of alluminum in? Either way it doesn't seem that hard. shrink the brass with some nitrogen and have a good press fit. The biggest problem I see with brass is the rate of expansion, may not be the same as the alluminum.

Thanks for the pictures.

 

It's a bronze valve guide for an aluminum head, drilled & reamed with the same press fit as I do when installing a guide. It's not going anywhere.

I bought the heads, and had them sent to me before the finish work was done, including the oil drainback holes. The LT1 drains are in a different exit location, which will pass through the coolant passage. Rather than weld up the whole area, I installed the guides.