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Valve springs and titanium top end

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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 09:24 AM
  #16  
oil pan 4's Avatar
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From: Clovis, NM
runner size 220cc
I plain to change out the exhaust valves every 10,000 or so miles, slightly used Ti exhaust valves are about the same $$$ as new high quality SS.
The trans is a TH700, I need to build it up with better every thing all most, starting with a $330 Hughes race over haul kit as the center peace along with other parts and servos, 10'' break away 3500 stall converter, and a heavy duty flex plate.
I'm going to can the stock drive shaft for an LT1 or inland empire drive line drive shaft and a safty loop.
The rear is gong to have to be a 10 bolt with a series III eaton posi I bought a while ago, some superior axels, 3.73 gears and a suporting cast Al diff cover and if I can't hook it on street tires I'll get some slicks.
The cars fat I think it is going to weigh about 3500lb.
I'm going to try and lighten up the frount and put it in the a$$ with a rear batt. Al heads light weight starter and other little things minus a lb. hear and there.
Old Jun 2, 2004 | 03:00 PM
  #17  
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The rest of the heads, flow numbers, runner size? etc.... I'm guessing a LT1?

350 or 383?
Old Jun 2, 2004 | 05:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by oil pan 4
runner size 220cc
...
I'm going to can the stock drive shaft for an LT1 or inland empire drive line drive shaft and a safty loop.
LT1? don't bother... total waste of cash. Most them were unbalanced from the factory (not really unbalanced so much as the yolk wasn't welded on center).
The rear is gong to have to be a 10 bolt with a series III eaton posi I bought a while ago,... if I can't hook it on street tires I'll get some slicks.
kaboom. Good luck man, I nuked a stock posi and an Eaton posi in my 10-bolt with a stock engine and drag radials (4 months apart no less). Granted it's a bit of a factory freak (280rwhp LT1), and you will have a nice benefit of an automatic... but we're also not talking about a "mild" engine design. Otherwise it looks good (HUGE runner volume though... what kind of displacement are you shooting for? If I didn't know any better I'd wager you were building for 8000 rpms...)
Old Jun 3, 2004 | 07:08 PM
  #19  
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From: Clovis, NM
The block is a 89 1 peace RMS 350 with 2 bolt mains (will be 2 stud mains once the crank gose in).
I was looking at an eagle 383 forged crank.
I was going to run 64cc Al heads and speed pro forged blower pistons and 5.7'' forged Hbeams.
It should give me about a 9.7:1 C/R
I didn't know the LT1 shafts were un balanced, I'll fork the 330 over for the inland empire part.
Maybe I'll stick one (LT1 drive shaft) in the V6.
I have a edelbrock duel plane intake manifold good for 1,500-6,500, part 7501.
The 7501 edelbrock intake, the 220 runers heads and that cam looks a lot like an edelbrock kit I saw a while a go that made like 450hp.
Unlike that Kit my heads have little bit bigger runners, The cam has the same duration but with more lift, the valves/ heads I have are 2.05, the kit had 2.02 I think and that kit was with a flat tappet cam, I have roller every thing. And I was going to do a little porting.
Old Jun 3, 2004 | 11:41 PM
  #20  
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Might want to consider a Denny's Nitrous-Ready driveshaft. Indestructable and only $370. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/nitrous_ready.html

They also have a nasty Heavy Duty shaft for $270 to $310.

If you want an aluminum metal-matrix shaft, made by a company that does stuff for NASCAR, NHRA and is owned by the company GM started in 1923 here ya go... http://www.dynotechengineering.com/ I've got their 3.5" Al-matrix shaft and havn't had any problems even while blowing up 2 posi's.
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